India Travel
Accommodation south of Kovalam in Kerala
Two of the most luxurious of Kovalam’s resorts lie around 8km to the south by road, and they benefit from long stretches of golden beach, as opposed to the unattractive black sand of Kovalam. The German-run Surya Samudra at PULINKUDI (0471 /480413, 481124) consists of beautifully presented antique Keralan wood cottages (all non-a/c), which spread discreetly along a rocky hillside and look down onto two small beaches. There is an Ayurvedic centre and an extraordinary swimming pool cut into the rock that is open to nonresidents, but for a price (Rs400). Nearby, Somatheemm at CHOWERA (0471/481601, 462935) was formerly an Ayurvedic hospital and now offers high-quality massage and Ayurvedic medical treatment in four-star surroundings; comfortable cottages and apartments in exquisite Keralan houses spill down its landscaped hillside to a private beach. If it’s full, try their sister concern around the corner, Manaltheemm (0471/481610, 481611) which has marginally cheaper cottages, and shares the same Ayurvcdic facilities.
For a bit of quiet, head south to POOVAR at the mouth of the River Neyyar. 20km south of Kovalam (taxis charge Rs200). Here, the Treasure Island (0471/212063, 210019), which should be pre-booked through Wilson Tourist Home in Kovalam (0471/480051), occupies a secluded spot on a palm-studded island with pleasant cottages in a coconut plantation, and a swimming pool.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Kovalam and around south from Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala
The coastal village of KOVALAM may lie just 10km south from Thiruvananthapuram, but as Kerala's most developed beach resort it's becoming ever more distanced from the rest of the state. Each year greater numbers of Western visitors - budget travellers and jet-setters alike - arrive in search of sun, sea and palm-fringed beaches. For many travellers it has become, with Goa and Mamallapuram, the third essential stop on a triangular tour of tropical south Indian "paradises" - or indeed just another leg of the trail along the coasts of South Asia. Europeans have been visiting Kovalam since the 1930s, but not
Ayurveda in Kovalam in Kerala
Ayurvedic massage is advertised everywhere in Kovalam, and you'll constandy be approached by men professing to be well-qualified Ayurvedic practitioners - they even show you impressive certificates. They offer cheap massages, usually costing Rs150-500. However, most of the so-called "Ayurvedic centres" along Lighthouse Beach are seasonal, as are the "doctors" and" masseurs"; there have been an increasing number of complaints about sexual harassment during sessions and serious skin reactions to dodgy Ayurvedic oils. If you're interested in benefiting from an Ayurvedic massage, the only centres in Kovalam that currently hold official state approval are at the Ashok Hotel and the KTDC
Thriuvananthpuram Accommodation in Kerala
Accommodation Thriuvananthpuram's mid-range and expensive hotels are, in general, cheaper then in most state capitals, but are not concentrated in any one district. Budget hotels are grouped mainly in the streets around Central Station Road- Good areas to start looking are Manjalikulam Road, five minutes' walk west from the railway station, or the lanes off Aristo Junction; note that the best of the budget places tend to be full by late afternoon. If you prefer to base yourself at the beach, head for Kovalam.
Varkalanorthwest in Kerala
Long known to Keralans as a place of pilgrimage, VARKALA, 54km northwest of Thiruvananthapuram and 20km southeast of Kollam, is drawing more and more foreign visitors, who see the beautiful beach and cliffs 1500m beyond the village as a quiet, unspoiled alternative to Kovalam. Centred on a clifftop row of budget guesthouses and palm-thatch cafes, the tourist scene has so far been relatively low-key despite the arrival of the Taj Group's luxury resort and the occasional package tour group. Varkala is developing, albeit slowly, so enjoy it while you can; this tranquil spot could well go the same way as
Arrival and information in Kerala
The international airport (connected to most major Indian cities, as well as Sn Lanka, the Maldives and the Middle East), with tourist information and foreign exchange facilities, is 6km southwest of town and serviced by an airport bus and bus #14 to and from the City bus stand. Auto-rickshaws will run you into the centre for around Rs40 and there's also a handy prepaid taxi service. If you're heading straight out to Kovalam, you may find that a prepaid taxi is i nost as cheap as an auto-rickshaw. The long-distance KSRTC Thampanoor bus stand (0471/323886) and railway station (0471/329246 or 132)
Around Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala
Although for virtually its entire 550-kilometre length the Keralan coast is lined with sandy beaches, rocky promontories and coconut palms, Kovalam is one of the only places where swimming in the sea is not considered eccentric by locals, and which offers accommodation to suit all budgets. When it gets too hot at sea level, Ponmudi, a bus ride away in the Cardamom hills through forest, spice and tea plantations, makes a refreshing break. Another easy excursion from Thiruvananthapuram is its predecessor as capital of Travancore, Padrnanabhapuram, site of a magniScent palace.
Kovalam’s beaches Accommodation in Kerala
Kovalam is crammed with accommodation, ranging from standard budget rooms with just a double bed and bathroom to five-star hilltop chalets. Only rock-bottom rooms are hard to find, as all but a handful of the many budget travellers' guesthouses have been recently upgraded to suit the standards of the large number of package tourists that flock here over Christmas. This also means that hotels are often block-booked weeks in advance; it pays to phone around and reserve a room before you arrive, which also saves you from the menace of the touts that hang around the bus stand. If you
South of Kovalam: Vizhinjam (Vilinjam) in Kerala
The unassuming village of VIZHINJAM. (pronounced Vinnyam), on the opposite (south) side of the headland from Lighthouse beach, was once the capital of the Ay kings, the earliest dynasty in south Kerala. During the ninth century the Fandyans intermittently took control, and it was the scene ot major Chola-Chera battles in the eleventh century.A number of small simple shrinsfl survive from those times, and can be made the focus of a pleasant afternoons stroll along shady paths through coconut groves. They're best approached from the village centre, beyond a fishing community, rather than via the coast roan However, if you
Thiruvananthapuram Information and tours in Kerala
All the tourist offices at the airport are open during flight times. The Government of India's counter (0471/501498) offers general information regarding Kerala and the adjacent states, while the Government of Kerala has two counters, one at the domestic terminal (0471/501085) and the other at the internacion.il terminal (0471/502298), offering Kerala-specific information including, for example, on backwater cruises. The Government of Kerala also has an office in the main block at the Thampanoor bus stand (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0471/327224) which is good for general information and maps and sells tickets for backwater cruises between Kollam and Alappuzha. They have another counter
Kovalam’s Eating and nightlife in Kerala
Light house beach is lined with sandy laid-back cafes and restaurants including Gdrzia, Croaker's and Coral Reef, all specializing in seafood, although chicken, pasta and veg options are widely available. If you want seafood, pick from the fresh fish, lobster, tiger prawns, crab and mussels on display, which are then weighed, grilled over a charcoal fire, and served with salad and chips. Meals are pricey by Indian standards - typically around Rsl50 per head for fish, and double that for lobster or prawns - and the service is often painfully slow, but the ambience of the beachfront terraces is convivial
Pozhikkara beach and Pachalloor village in Kerala
Heading north along Samudra for around 4km you'll pass through a string of fishing hamlets before eventually arriving at a point where the sea merges with the backwaters to form a salt-water lagoon. Although only thirty minutes' walk, from the Aslwk, the sliver of white sand dividing the two, known as Pozhikkara beach, is a world away from the headlong holiday culture of Kovalam. Here, the sands are used primarily for landing fish and fixing nets, while the thick palm canopy shelters a mixed community of Hindu fishermen and Christian coir makers. I he tranquil village of PACHALLOOR, behind the lagoon,
Padmanabhapuram Practicalities in Kerala
Frequent buses run to Padmanabhapuram from Thiruvananthapurams Thampanoor station; hop on any service heading south towards Nagercoil or Kanniyakumari and get off at Thakkaly (sometimes written Thuckalai). If you're determined to see Padmanabhapuram. Kanniyakumari and Suchindram in one day. leave the city early to arrive when the palace opens at 9am. Note that two express buses leave Thakkaly at 2,30pm and 3.30pm for Thiruvananthapuram. Another way to see Padmanabhapuram is on KTDC's Kanniyakumari tour which starts at Thiruvananthapuram (Tues-Sun 7.30am-9pm; Rs230) and can be picked up at Kovalam where it stops en route. The area around the bus station, being on
Packages and organized tours
A large number of operators run package holidays to India, covering such activities as trekking and safaris as well as sightseeing and sunbathing. Specialist minority-interest tours range from steam locomotives and war history to religion and food. Even if you book a general sightseeing tour, most firms have a good range of options, usually including the "Golden Triangle" of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur; a tour of Rajasthan; or a southern tour taking in Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai and Kochi. Some also offer wildlife tours; the Palace on Wheels train journey; take in Nepal or Bhutan; or have various combinations of all
Cheruthuruthy Practicalities in Kerala
Cheruthuruthy s accommodation is limited, with some students staying as jjuests in private accommodation or at the new on-site, self-catering international Hostel. The village has a couple of simple guesthouses and the atmospheric Government Rest House (0488/462760; 0), a short distance along the Shoramur road from Kalamandalam, has eight vast and very basic rooms, some with Western-style toilets, and all sharing a veranda. The bustling and (Unattractive town of Shoramur has more options but none that could capture tthe charm of Cheruthuruthy and its environs. Food may be available by .arrangement, and there are simple "meals" shops in the village;
Arrival, information and getting around in Kerala
Heading along the upgraded approach road from the capital (now littered witl publicity hoardings), the frequent #9 bus from Thiruvananthapuram (Eas Fort: 20min) loops through Kovalam, and stops at the gates to the Ashok complex, at the northern end of the middle bay. Anyone carrying heavy bags who '"ants to stay by the sea (and not at the Ashok), should alight earlier, either a the road to the lighthouse, or the road leading down to the Sea Rock hotel. It so possible to take an auto-rickshaw or taxi all the way from Thiruvananthapuram; auto-rickshaws cost between Rs60 and Rs100 but
Kovalam’s beaches in Kerala
Kovalam consists of three main beaches; the southernmost, known for obvious reasons as Lighthouse beach, is where most visitors spend their time. Roughly ten minutes' trudge through the sand from end to end (none of it is paved), it's bordered with cheek-to-cheek low-rise concrete guesthouses and restaurants. The red-and-white lighthouse stands on the promontory at the southern end of the beach, but is closed to the public. Hawaii, the middle beach, overlooked from a rocky headland by the five-star Ashok resort, functions each morning as a base for local fishermen, who drag a massive net through the shallows to scoop up
Ponmudi and Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala
In the tea-growing region of the Cardamom (or Ponmudi) hills, about 60km northeast of Thiruvananthapuram and 77km from Kovalam. at an altitude of 1066m, is the hill station of PONMUDI. It is not a town, or even a village, but merely some accommodation along a ridge, commanding breathtaking views out across the range as far as the sea. The main reason anyone comes up here is that it serves as the only practical base for visits to the 53 square kilometres of forest set aside as Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary, which protects elephants, sambar, lion-tailed macaques, leopard, and assorted birds. Although Peppara
Thrissur in Kerala
The breezy bazaar town of THRISSUR (Trichur), roughly midway between Kochi (74km south) and Palakkad (79km northeast) on NH-47. is an obvious base for exploring the cultural riches of central Kerala. Near the Palghat (Palakkad) Gap - an opening in the natural border made by the Western Ghat mountains - it presided over the main trade route into the region from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. For years Thrissur was the capital of Cochin State, controlled at various times by both the zamorin of Kozhikode and Tipu Sultan of Mysore. Today, it justifiably prides itself on being the cultural capital of
North of Kozhikode in Kerala
The beautiful coast of Kerala, north of Kozhikode, is a seemingly endless stretch of coconut palms, wooded hills and virtually deserted beaches; the towns hold little of interest for visitors, most of whom bypass the area completely. However, then you miss out on the fun of a search through the villages for Teyyattam, the extraordinary masked trance dances that take place throughout the region during winter.
Chinese fishing nets in Kerala
The huge, elegant Chinese fishing nets that line the northern shore of Fort Cochin add grace to an already characterful waterside view, and ate probably. The single most familiar photographic image of Kerala. Traders from the court of Kublai Khan are said to have introduced them to the Malabar region" Known in Malayalam as cheena vala, they can also be seen throughout the back waters further south. The nets, which are suspended from arced poles and operated by levers and weights, require at least four men to control. You can buy fresh fish from the tiny market here and have