India Travel
Arranging a trek or tour and hiring equipment for Leh Ladakh
Leh offers a bewildering number of operators for the large volume of tourists who come to Ladakh to trek. Most trek and tour operators offer much the same services sharing much the same resources. Although trekking rates are quite uniform, you can get some cheaper deais on items such as porterage and pony hire by shopping around. You can also rent equipment either through the chosen agency or through places like the Traveller Shop, White House, Fort Road (01982/53048). Expect to pay Rs100 a day for a tent, Rs70 for a sleeping bag, Rs30 for a gas stove and Rs40 for an ice axe, for those intending to attempt the climb of Stok Kangri. Mero Mountaineering Expeditions & Rescue Operations), across Fort Road (01982/53070), also supplies equipment and is cheaper but the quality of the equipment isn’t so good. Both Mero and the Traveller Shop act as trek operators supplying guides, porters, transport and food. Standard rates for package treks start from around $25 per day, but for those who prefer to arrange things themselves, pony hire through an agent in Leh costs around Rs400 a day and a pony man, who can guide and cook, an extra Rs300.
Damage to the environment has become an issue of paramount importance In Ladakh. Although plastic bags are banned as they clog up the vital river systems that the state so depends on, shopkeepers continue to use them. Plastic mineral water bottles are a particular headache and so you are advised to bring your own filtration system with you; some places in Leh will refill mineral water bottles with safe water. You are advised to leave all unnecessary packaging behind before arriving in Ladakh.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Trekking in Ladakh and Zanskar
The ancient footpaths that crisscross Ladakh and Zanskar provide some of the most inspiring trekking in the Himalayas. Threading together remote Buddhist villages and monasteries, cut off in winter behind high passes whose rocky tops bristle with windswept thickets of prayer flags, nearly all are long, hard and high - but rarely dull The best time to trek is from June to September. New areas where restrictions have recently been lifted such as the Nubra Valley and Rupshu (Tso Moriri) are gradually being developed, and Leh- and Manali-based trekking agents are busy exploring new itineraries. Whether you make all the necessary
Practicalities of Dehra Dun in Uttaranchal
The railway station is on Gandhi Road, just south of the City Bus Stand and the post office, which is next to the Clock Tower in the centre of town. The State Bank of India, Convent Road (Mon-Fri 10am—2pm, Sat 10am-noon) changes travellers' cheques, as do several of the state banks that line Rajpur Road. Dehra Dun is the best place in the state for internet access as the region's only server is here; there's a cybercafe in the mall at 17 Rajpur Rd (daily 7.30am-11pm; Rs50/hr). The helpful Regional Tourist Office, at the GMVN Hotel Drona, 4 Gandhi Rd (Mon-Sat
Restricted areas and permits in Ladakh
Much of Ladakh is still inaccessible to the casual tourist, but with the easing of tensions along the border between India and China, parts of this incredible land, once hidden behind the political veil of the "Inner Line", are being opened up. Three areas in particular were opened to visitors in the mid-1990s: the Nubra Valley bordering the Karakoram Range to the north of Leh; the area around Pangong Tso- the lake to the east of Leh; and the region of Rupshu with the lake of Tso Moriri: to the southeast of Leh. (Dha Hanu in west Ladakh was similarly
The trek to Yamunotri northeast of Rishikesh in Uttaranchal
Cradled in a deep cleft in the lap of Bandarpunch, and thus denied mountain vistas, the temple of Yamunotri (3291m), 223km northeast of Rishikesh, marks the source of the Yamuna, India's second holiest river after the Ganges. The least dramatic but most beautiful of the four dhams (temples) of Garhwal, it's also the most unspoiled and the least commercial, and the undemanding fourteen-kilometre (5hr) trek up to it from Hanuman Chatti is one of the region's most popular short hikes. The trail leads through attractive countryside, following the turbulent ice-blue river as it runs below terraced fields, with snowy peaks
Kargil Practicalities in Ladakh
Buses arriving in Kargil from Leh, Srinagar and Padum either puil in to the main bus stand, immediately below the top (west) end of the bazaar, or at the truck park above the river, two minutes' walk downhill from the mam street. If you plan to head off early in the morning, check when you buy your ticket where the bus leaves from. There are only a couple of buses every day for Mulbekh but you may be able to catch a Matador - a shared minibus. The buses to Padum in Zanskar are subject to delays but run on
Pangong Tso in Ladakh
Pangong Tso. 154km to the southeast of Leh, is one of the largest saltwater lakes in Asia, a long narrow strip of water stretching from Ladakh east into Tibet, Only a quarter of the 130-kilometre-long lake is in Ladakh, and the Indian army, who experienced bitter losses along its shores in the war against China in 1962, jealously guard their side of the frontier. Until the mid-1990s, it was off limits to visitors, and tourists still need a permit to come here. The lake, at an altitude of 4267m. with the dramatic glacier-clad Pangong Range to its south and the
Trekking from Palampur district in Himachal Pradesh
With its lush tea gardens, alpine meadows and the harsh and rocky crags of the Dhaula Dhar range, Palampur is a good base for some lesser-known treks; the passes north of town offer unrivalled views of the Kangra Valley. An easy four-day hike leads from PALAMPUR over Waru Pass (3850m), the "gateway of wind", via Satchali, Thanetar and Dhog to Holi; continuing for two more testing days to the sacred Manimahesh Lake near Brahmour. From Dhog it's possible to continue east to Barabhangal and as far as Manali. A pleasant but difficult seven- or eight-day trek from PALAMPUR starts by crossing
Khonoma northwest from Kohima in the Northeast
The beautiful Angami village of KHONOMA, 20km northwest from Kohima, holds a special place in Naga history as the place where Angami warriors made their final stand against the British in 1879. Magnificent rice terracing surrounds the village, irrigated by a complex system of bamboo water pipes, and twenty different types of rice are grown here, each specifically suited to the elevation, soil and aspect of the terraces. A flight of steps, approached through a traditional carved gate, leads up to the highest point of the village from where excellent views take in the hills and the neighbouring villages of
Treks from Brahmour in Himachal Pradesh
Trekking routes lead north from Brahmour (2130m) over the Pir Panjal range across passes covered with snow for most of the year. The challenging trek over Kalichho Pass (4990m), "The Abode of Kali", ends in the village of Triloknath, whose ancient temple to three-faced Shiva is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Buses run from here to Udaipur, and on to Keylong and Manali. Another demanding route crosses the Kugti Pass (5040m), "that which makes one miserable to reach". From Hadsar, an hour by bus from Brahmour, the path follows the River Budhil for 12km to Kugti, then up to Kuddi
Chitkul to Har-ki-Dun in Himachal Pradesh
This ten-day trek to Garhwal is subject to restrictions as it passes along the edge of the Inner Line. The trek starts from Chitkul and crosses the Baspa River to Doaria. The route then climbs up a side valley to follow a lateral moraine up to the Zupika Gad and then a steep ascent - the final section of which is up a crevassed glacier -to the Borsu Pass (5300m). The other side of the pass is down a steep snow and boulder field requiring some scrambling; you arrive a few days later in the beautiful valley of Har-ki-Dun in
Arrival, information and transport in North Bengal
Virtually all travellers arriving in Darjeeling from the plains come via Siligun, whether by the Toy Train, shared Jeep or bus. Jeeps and buses stop at the bus stand in the lower half of the town from where it's a bit of an uphill trek to the main hotel area. Taxis and some Jeeps will take you up to Clubside near the Mall, at the upper end of town; porters are available (from Rs20), but be careful as some act as touts so you could end up paying more for your room. Darjeeling is best explored on foot - in
Spitok to Hemis via the Markha Valley in Ladakh
The beautiful Markha Valley runs parallel with the Indus on the far southern side of the snowy Stok-Kangri massif, visible from Leh. Passing through cultivated valley floors, undulating high-altitude grassland, and snow-prone passes, the winding trail along it enables trekkers to experience life in a roadless region without having to hike for weeks into the wilderness - as a result, it has become the most frequented route in Ladakh. This will, however, change when the new road from Chilling presently under construction is completed. Do not attempt this trek without adequate wet- and cold-weather gear: snow flurries sweep across the
Likkir to Temisgang in Ladakh
A motorable road along the old caravan route through the hills between Likkir and Temisgang makes a leisurely two-day hike, which takes in three major monasteries (Likkir, Rhizong and Temisgang) and a string of idyllic villages. It's a great introduction to trekking in Ladakh, the perfect acclimatizer if you plan to attempt any longer and more demanding routes. Ponies and guides for the trip may be arranged on spec at either Likkir or Temisgang villages, both of which have small guesthouses and are connected by daily buses to Leh.
Kargil Accommodation in Ladakh
If you've heard anything about Kargil, it is probably that its hotels are dreadful - which may be unfair on the few up market places, and the J&KTDC Tourist Bungalows, but is certainly true of the rock-bottom "guesthouses" around the bazaar. The Kashmir crisis, which reduced tourist traffic to a trickle, has aggravated the problem by squeezing half the hotels out of business. Those that remain are either geared towards tour groups, or else are total dives. What's more, room tariffs soar in July and August, when a flea-infested win-dowless hovel without running water can cost as much as Rs250.
Kibber in Himachal Pradesh
KIBBER (4205m) is reputedly the highest settlement with a motorable road and electricity in the world. Jeep tracks, satellite dishes and the odd tin-roofed government building aside, its smattering of 3 hundred or so old Spitian houses is truly picturesque. Surrounded in summer by lush green barley fields, Kibber also stands at the head of a trail that picks its way north across the mountains, via the high Parang La pass (5578m) to Ladakh. Before the construction of roads into the Spiti Valley, locals used to lead ponies and yaks this way to trade in Leh bazaar. These days only
Visiting Ladakh
Two main "highways" connect Ladakh with the rest of India. Due to the unrest in Kashmir, the legendary Srinagar Leh road now sees far less tourist traffic than the route up from Manali, almost 500km south.These two. plus the track from Kargil to Padum in Zanskar, also link the majority of Ladakh s larger settlements with the capital. Bus services along the main Indus Valley highway are frequent and reliable, but grow less so the further you get from Leh. To get to and from off-track side-valleys and villages within a single day, it is much easier to splash out on
The Ecology Centre of Leh in Ladakh
Five minutes' walk north of the main bazaar (next to the Tsemo-La Hotel), the Ecology Centre (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; $01982/52646) is the headquarters of LEDeG (the Ladakh Ecological Development Group) - a local nongovernmental organization that aims to counter the negative impact of Western-style "development" by fostering economic independence and respect for traditional culture. This involves promoting "appropriate" technologies such as solar energy, encouraging organic farming and cottage industries, and providing education on environmental and social issues through village drama, workshops and seminars. A garden hosts an open-air exhibition ot solar gadgets, hydraulic pumps, water nulls and other ingenious energy-saving devices
Port Blair in The Andaman Islands
PORT BLAIR, a characterless cluster of tin-roofed buildings tumbling towards the sea in the north, east and west and petering into fields and forests in the south, merits only a short stay. There's little to see here - just the Cellular Jail and a few small museums - but as the point of arrival for the islands, and the only place with a bank, tourist offices and hotels, it can't be avoided. If you plan to head off to more remote islands, this is also the best place to stock up on supplies and buy necessary equipment.
Practicalities in Goa
The best rime to visit Dudhsagar is immediately after the monsoons, from October until mid-December, although the falls flow well into April. Unfortunately, the train line, which climbs above the tree canopy via a series of spectacular cuttings and stone bridges, only sees two services per week in each direction (Tues & Sat; depart Margao 7.21am), neither of them returning che same day. As a result, the only practicable way to get there and back is by four-wheel-drive Jeep from Colem (reachable by train from Vasco, Margao and Chandor, or by taxi from the north coast resorts for around Rs1000).The
City and regional tours in Delhi
The Government of India tourist office, 88 Janpath, organizes a/c bus tours of New Delhi (daily 8am-1pm; Rs147) and Old Delhi (daily 2.15pm-5pm; Rs126), and a combined tour of Old and New Delhi (8am-5pm; Rs231). All start at ITDC Indraprastha, Janpath (see p.108); their tailor-made packages including a guide cost Rs950 for a whole day. Tours are also available to Agra, Jaipur and Haridwar/Rishikesh. Similarly, along with long-distance tours, the DTTDC, Bombay Life Building, Middle Circle also offer city tours: their half-day tour costs Rs95 and Rs110 while the whole-day tour option is Rs180/Rs210. The Metropolis Hotel in Paharganj, amongst