India Travel
Arrival and information Accommodation in Goa
Local resistance Co large-scale development explains why - with the exception of the Beach Resort’s tent camp, Bhakti Kutir in nearby Colom (see below) and a handful of small budget guesthouses - most of the village’s accommodation consists of simple palm-leaf huts. Costing anywhere between Rs100 and Rs35(l per night, they vary in size and standards of comfort, but tend to have shared showers and toilets. The other option is to look for a room in a family home. Most, although not all, of these also have limited shared washing facili’ ties and pig toilets. The easiest way to find a place is to walk around the palm groves behind the beach with a rucksack; sooner or later someone will approach you. Rates vary from Rs100 to Rs200 per night, depending on the size of the room, and the time of year.
The cheapest places, however, are to be found in Colom, around the headland south of Palolem village, where Hindu fishing families rent the odd room out to tourists. Further south still, behind Patnem beach, the shack erect rudimentary leaf huts slap on the beach.
Beautifully situated and sensitively designed to blend with the landscape by German-Goan owners.
Bha Kti Kutir, on the headland above Colom fishing Village 0832/643460 or 643472, 643469. Homely, eco friendly that ched village huts equipped with Western amenities (including completely biodegradable chemical toilets], in a secure, leafy compound five minutes’ walk from the south end of Palolem
Ciaran’s Camp, middle of the beach 0832/643477 or 644074. One of Palolem’s longest established hut structures, sharing five toilets,equipped with fans, mozzie nets, mirrors and tables. Free library, laundry, bar. restaurant and safe lockers.
Coco Huts. south end of Palolem beach - 08 3 2/643104. That sty bamboo and palm-thatch huts on stills, lashed to toddi trees around a sandy clearing, slap on the beach. The “rooms” have fans, electric lights and safe lockers, but toilets are shared, and the leaf walls offer little privacy.
Cozy Nook, north end of the beach, near the island T 0832/643550. After Bhakti Kutir. this is the most attractively designed setup in the village, comprising 25 bamboo huts (sharing 7 toilets, but with good mattresses, mozzie nets, safe lockers and fans) opening onto the lagoon on one side and the beach on the other - an unbeatable spot, which explains the higher than average tariffs.
Cupid Castle, on the road to the beach-front 0832/643326. An original name, but these recently built rooms are characterless, and a little too close to the beach-front tor comfort.
Nonetheless, they’re clean, spacious, and have attached bathrooms.
O’Malley. Pundalik Gaitondi Road 0332/643057.A mix of attached and non-attached rooms on three storeys, some in a concrete annexe set back from the main road.
La Alegro, north side of the beach 0832/643498. En-suite rooms slap on the Deach. Very basic and not all that well maintained,but the location’s great. The same owner also has five more (cheaper) identikit rooms around the Dack.
Maria’s. south of the village, near the Classic restaurant 0832/643732 or 643856. Five simple rooms opening onto an orchard of banana, fruit and spice trees. All with attached shower-toilets, and very friendly management. Nice little bar-restaurant, Rn phone and internet access on site. A good deal. Q Norgoa, Gaitondi Road (no phone). Half a dozen basic rooms ot varying size, with shared shower-toilets, on the main road through the village. They also have six budget-priced bamboo “huts’ m trie front garden.
Palolem Beach Resort, on the beach-front 0832/643054, 643054. Twin-bedded canvas tents, each with their own locker, lights and fans, grouped under a shady toddi grove in a walled compound. In addition, there’s a handful of small en-suite rooms. The big drawback here is noise from the busy terrace restaurant. Sea Gull, next door to Cupid Castle. Dark but serviceable rooms with attached shower-toilets behind a bar near the beach-front area.
Unic Resort, Tembi Waddo 0832/643059. A relative newcomer that, strictly speaking, is in Colom, a “10mm walk inland from the beach; you can also get here via the backroad to Chaudi. The rooms are plain but clean, with fans and en-suite bathrooms, and there’s a secluded German-run restaurant on an adjacent terrace.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Arrival and information in Himachal Pradesh
State-ran buses from Manali, Mandi, Pathankot, Kangra and Delhi pull into the bus stand in the very south of the lower town, though some continue after a short stop all the way up to McLeod Ganj - the usual arrival point for private and deluxe buses from Delhi and Manali. The nearest point of arrival for trains from Delhi, Punjab and Jammu Tawi is Pathankot - the narrow-gauge train linking Pathankot to Jogindernagar also stops at Kangra and at Nagrota. Dharamsala's airport, 11km to the south at Gaggal, has three Indian Airlines' flights a week to Delhi. The tourist office (Mon-Sat
Arrival and information in Delhi
Delhi is India's main point of arrival for overseas visitors, and has two airports, one domestic and one international. State buses from all over the country pull into the Inter-state Bus Terminal in Old Delhi, while private buses stop in the more central location close to New Delhi railway station. Trains arrive at the railheads in Old or New Delhi, both well connected to Connaught Place, the commercial centre of the city, by rickshaw and taxi. For a summary of the kinds of accommodation available in different areas of the city, which may well determine where you head first, see p.
Arrival and information for Calcutta
Calcutta's airport, 20km north of the city centre, is served by international flights - although only a small proportion of visitors actually enter India here - as well as services from throughout the country. Officially "Netaji Subhash Bose International Airport", it is still universally known by its old name of Dum Dum - a name that became infamous during the Boer War, when the notorious (and now banned) exploding bullet was manufactured in a nearby factory. The dreary international terminal has money changing facilities, a prepaid taxi booth and a Government of India tourist information counter but little else. In
Arrival and information about Calcutta
Calcutta's airport, 20km north of the city centre, is served by international flights - although only a small proportion of visitors actually enter India here - as well as services from throughout the country. Officially "Netaji Subhash Bose International Airport", it is still universally known by its old name of Dum Dum - a name that: became infamous during the Boer War, when the notorious (and now banned) exploding bullet was manufactured in a nearby factory. The dreary international terminal has money changing facilities, a prepaid taxi booth and a Government of India tourist information counter but little else. In
Arrival and information Gwalior
Gwalior's main-line railway station, linked to Delhi, Agra, Jhansi and Bhopal by the fast Shatabdi Express, lies in the east of the city, just around the corner from the state bus stand. Most of the decent accommodation is within walking distance of the station, with more places an auto-rickshaw ride away to the west, down the busy MLB (Maharani Lakshmi Bai) Road. If you're travelling light, you could save on the fare by squeezing into one of the inexpensive tempos that run along Station Road. Gwalior airport, 9km to the northeast of the centre, is served by taxis and auto-rickshaws.
Information about Calcutta
The efficient and friendly Government of India Tourist Office, Shakespeare Sarani (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-lpm, is your best bet for information on Calcutta,'West Bengal and destinations further afield, and can assist with itineraries and booking tours.The Government ofWest Bengal Tourist Bureau. 3/2 BBD Bagh East, arranges tours of Calcutta and package trips around West Bengal. They also issue permits and book tours and accommodation at the Sunderbans and Jaldapara wildlife parks. Tourist information counters at the airport and Howrah Station offer the same services. English-language newspapers such as the
Information on Calcutta
The efficient and friendly Government of India Tourist Office, 4 Shakespeare Sarani (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-1 pm;) is your best bet for information on Calcutta, 'West Bengal and destinations further a field, and can assist with itineraries and booking tours. The Government of West Bengal Tourist Bureau, 3/2 BBD Bagh East (©033/248 8271), arranges tours of Calcutta and package trips around West Bengal. They also issue permits and book tours and accommodation at the Sunderbans and Jaldapara wildlife parks. Tourist information counters at the airport and Howrah Station offer the same
Arrival and information in The Andaman Islands
Port Blair has two jetties: boats from the mainland moor at Haddo Jetty, nearly 2km northwest of Phoenix Jetty, arrival point for inter-island ferries. The Director of Shipping Services at Phoenix Jetty has the latest information on boats and ferries, but you can also check the shipping news column of the local newspaper, the Daily Telegrams, for details of forthcoming departures. Advice on booking ferry tickets appears in the box. The smart new airport terminal is 4km south of town at Lamba Line. Entry permits are issued to foreigners from the immigration counters as you enter the arrivals hall. Taxis are
Arrival and information of Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh
The easiest way to get to Khajuraho is on one of the daily flights with Indian Airlines from Delhi (via Agra), or Varanasi. The local airport is 5km south of the main square of Khajuraho town; the taxi ride in costs Rs80. The two nearest railheads are at Jhansi to the northwest (see p.335), and Satna to the southeast; both are connected by bus. All buses terminate less than 1km southeast at the bus stand, within walking distance of most central hotels, or a cycle rickshaw will set you back Rs10, an auto-rickshaw Rsl5. Money can be changed at the State
Arrival and information in Gujarat
Arriving in Junagadh by bus or train, you're within easy walking distance of nearly all the hotels. From the long distance bus stand, turn right, then left at the main road and straight on across the railway tracks into the town centre; from the railway station, take a right down Station Road and a left at the end, by the petrol station. Local transport is provided by auto-rickshaws, though bicycles are great for getting around; with a bit of leg-work you can even cycle to the foot of Mount Girnar. Run-of-the-mill bikes can be had from 3 shop just west
Information of Varanasi in Eastern UP
The main UPTDC tourist office is at their Tourist Bungalow on Parade Komi) though their tourist information counter inside the railway station is far more efficient and on the ball - the boss, Uma Shankar, seems to regard the protection of tourists as a personal crusade. Both book accommodation and provide free maps. The shabby Bihar Government Tourist Office at Englishia Market, Slier Shah Suri Marg. Cantonment, is useful if you're heading east towards the Buddhist centres. The Government of India Tourist Office languishes in the leafy suburbs of the Cantonment, a long way from the main attractions of the old
Information of the Agra in the Uttar Pradesh
Agra has two tourist offices, one run by the Government of India, at 191 The Mall (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-1pm), and one run by UF Tourism, close to the darks Shimz, at 64 Taj Rd (same hours); there is also an information booth at Cantonment station. The Government of India office is better organized and provides information about other destinations, though both supply information on hotels and local sights, and details of tours that start and end at Agra Cantonment railway station.
Arrival, information and city transport to Amritsar in Haryana and Punjab
Amritsar's airport, serving Indian Airlines flights from Delhi and Chandigarh, lies 12km northwest of the city. Taxis (around Rs200) and auto-rickshaws (RslOO) run to the town centre, while buses pull into the huge, frenetic bus stand off GT Road on the eastern edge of the city centre. The railway station lies on the northern edge of the centre, 2km west of the interstate bus stand. PTDC's tourist office, Youth Hostel, Mall Mandi. GT Road (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm: ©0183/231452) is friendly, helpful and has useful information on bus and other travel connections. Amritsar is too large and labyrinthine to negotiate on foot. If
Arrival and information of Mumbai
Unless you arrive in Mumbai by train at Chatrapathi Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus), be prepared for a long slog into the centre. The international and domestic airports are north of the city, way off the map, and ninety minutes or more by road from the main hotel areas, while from Mumbai Central train or bus station, you face a laborious trip across town. Finding a place to stay can be even more of a hassle; phone around before you set off into the traffic.
Central Madhya Pradesh Arrival, information and city transport
Most of Bhopal's principal places of interest are so far apart that the best way of getting around has to be by metered auto-rickshaws, all of which sport smart interior upholstery and uniformed drivers (perhaps the reason for their slightly above average fares). Taxis can be found outside all of the top hotels, or else arranged through MPTDC. There's also a prepaid taxi and auto-rickshaw booth outside the station on Hamidia Road. MPTDC has helpful tourist information counters in the arrivals hall at the station (platform 1 exit), and on the fourth floor of the Gangotri Building on TT Nagar, New
Information in Delhi
There are reasonably helpful tourist offices at the inCernational and domestic air por Cs, railway stations and bus tetminals, and the Government of India tourist office at 88 Janpath, just south of Connaught Place (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-4.30pm), is a good place to pick up information on Delhi's sites, city tours, shopping, cultural events and accommodation. They also provide free maps of che city; you'll find the same ones sold in the streets at negotiable prices.The information counter at the less busy DTTDC (Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation) office, Bombay Life Building, Middle Circle (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-lpm; )
Andhra Pradesh : Arrival and information
The old city of Hyderabad straddles the River Musi. Most places of interest lie south of the river, while much of the accommodation is to the north. Further north, separated from Hyderabad by the Husain Sagar Lake, is the modern twin city of Secunderabad, where some long-distance trains terminate, and where all through trains deposit passengers. If you do have to get off at Secunderabad, your ticket is valid for any connecting train to Hyderabad; and if none is imminent, many buses including #5, #8 and #20 play between both stations. Hyderabad airport, 8 km north of the city at
Arrival, city transport and information to Ujjain in Western Madhy Pradesh
Trains arriving in Ujjain on both broad-gauge branches of the Western Railway pull-in at the station in the centre of town; Ujjain is on a link line between Indore and Bhopal, with regular intercity trains shunting between the three. Two minutes' walk northeast of the station is the Dewas Gate bus stand, where buses for Gwalior, Agra, Rajasthan and Bhopal depart. The inconvenient P.D.V. Bus Stand, next to the MPTDC Yatri Niwas, serves Indore, Bhopal and Mandu. The city is fairly spread out, so you'll need to get around by auto-rickshaw or by renting a bicycle from the shop opposite
Practicalities of Haridwar at Uttaranchal
Haridwar's railway station and Station Bus Stand, southwest of the centre, face each other across the main thoroughfare that channels all the traffic through to meet the river at Har-ki-Pairi. Trains and buses connect Haridwar with Rishikesh, Dehra Dun and the mountains, and run back down to Delhi. You can also get to Rishikesh in shared taxis, while Vikrams and tempos ply the few roads in town. To arrange a tour of Garwhal by bus or car, call in at KonarkTourist Service,Jassa Ram Road (0133/427210). A UP Tourism information booth at the station operates at arrival times. Information is also availaible
Arrival and information in Maharashtra
Daily Bights from Delhi and Mumbai arrive at Aurangabad's airport, Chikal Thana, 8km east of the city. Metered taxis are on hand for the trip into town (around Rsl50 to Station Road East or West), and courtesy minibuses whisk away guests booked into the nearby five-star hotels. The mainline railway station stands on the southwest edge of the city centre, within easy reach of most hotels, and a 2.5-kilometre ride south down Station Road (West) from the bus stand - the hectic arrival point for all buses. A counter at the airport (open at flight arrival times) provides arrival information, while