India Travel
Arrival, information and local transport in Ladak
A taxi from Leh airport, 5km southwest of town on the main Snnagar highway, will set you back a fixed fare of around Rs80 to the bazaar, or Rsl25 to Changspa where many of the town’s hotels are located. State and private buses pull into the dusty town bus stand, fifteen minutes’ walk, or a short taxi ride (Rs30), south of the bazaar and most of the hotels. Manali buses terminate on Fort Road, within easy walking distance of several hotels.
J&KTDC’s tourist reception centre (Mon-Sat 10am-4pm-§01982/52094), 3km from the bazaar on the airport road, is too far out of town and hardly worth visiting. The tourist information centre on Fort Road in the bazaar (July to mid-Sept Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; mid-Sept to June Mon-Fri 10am—4pm, Sat 10.30am—noon) is a bit more helpful. Two banks offer moneychanging facilities in Leh: try the efficient Foreign Exchange Service Centre of the J&K Bank, 1st Floor, Himalaya Shopping Complex, Main Bazaar (facilities may move to their new complex on Fort Road); or the State Bank of India on the main market square, who operate an infuriatingly chaotic system and don’t publish daily exchange rates. Elsewhere, private licensed foreign exchange, including some hotels such as Khtmgri and travel agents around Fort Road, invariably offer rates around five percent lower but are accessible after hours and at weekends. Khangri also has a Foreign Exchange Bureau on the main bazaar opposite the post office.
The taxi operators’ union rank (daily 7am-6pm; 01982/53309) is almost directly opposite the tourist information centre. Each driver carries a list of fixed fares to just about everywhere you might want to visit in Ladakh, taking into account waiting time, gompa entrance fees and night halt charges. However, these rates only apply to peak season; reductions of up to forty percent can be had at other times. Deal direcdy with the drivers, or their boss in the union office will take a cut (payable by you). All taxis are subject to the union’s rates, and taxis hired outside the area, such as those from Manali, may earn the wrath of the union, and are sometimes made to pay a surcharge which is then passed onto the client. Prices are on the high side as the season is so short.Expect to pay around Rs60 to Changspa, Rsl700 to Hemis, and Rs6000 to Nubra with an additional Rs250 for a night’s stay. Hunt around the tour operators in the bazaar and you can get cheaper deals for long-distance rides, especially if you don’t mind a Maruti (Suzuki) Gypsy which is a bit more cramped and bumpy on Ladakh’s rough roads.
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Arrival and information in Gujarat
Arriving in Junagadh by bus or train, you're within easy walking distance of nearly all the hotels. From the long distance bus stand, turn right, then left at the main road and straight on across the railway tracks into the town centre; from the railway station, take a right down Station Road and a left at the end, by the petrol station. Local transport is provided by auto-rickshaws, though bicycles are great for getting around; with a bit of leg-work you can even cycle to the foot of Mount Girnar. Run-of-the-mill bikes can be had from 3 shop just west
Arrival and information in Himachal Pradesh
State-ran buses from Manali, Mandi, Pathankot, Kangra and Delhi pull into the bus stand in the very south of the lower town, though some continue after a short stop all the way up to McLeod Ganj - the usual arrival point for private and deluxe buses from Delhi and Manali. The nearest point of arrival for trains from Delhi, Punjab and Jammu Tawi is Pathankot - the narrow-gauge train linking Pathankot to Jogindernagar also stops at Kangra and at Nagrota. Dharamsala's airport, 11km to the south at Gaggal, has three Indian Airlines' flights a week to Delhi. The tourist office (Mon-Sat
Arrival and information in The Andaman Islands
Port Blair has two jetties: boats from the mainland moor at Haddo Jetty, nearly 2km northwest of Phoenix Jetty, arrival point for inter-island ferries. The Director of Shipping Services at Phoenix Jetty has the latest information on boats and ferries, but you can also check the shipping news column of the local newspaper, the Daily Telegrams, for details of forthcoming departures. Advice on booking ferry tickets appears in the box. The smart new airport terminal is 4km south of town at Lamba Line. Entry permits are issued to foreigners from the immigration counters as you enter the arrivals hall. Taxis are
Arrival, information and local transport in Goa
European charter planes and domestic flights arrive at Goa's Dabolim ait-port, 29km south of Panjim on the outskirts ofVasco da Gama, Goa's second city. Prepaid taxis into town (45min; Rs475), booked at the counter in the forecourt, can be shared by up to four people. Long-distance and local buses pull into Panjim at the towns busy Kadamba bus terminal, lkm east of the centre in the district of Pato.Ten minutes'walk from here, across Ourem Creek to Fontainhas, brings you to several budget hotels. If you plan to stay in the more modern west end of town, flag down a motorcycle taxi
Arrival and information of Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh
The easiest way to get to Khajuraho is on one of the daily flights with Indian Airlines from Delhi (via Agra), or Varanasi. The local airport is 5km south of the main square of Khajuraho town; the taxi ride in costs Rs80. The two nearest railheads are at Jhansi to the northwest (see p.335), and Satna to the southeast; both are connected by bus. All buses terminate less than 1km southeast at the bus stand, within walking distance of most central hotels, or a cycle rickshaw will set you back Rs10, an auto-rickshaw Rsl5. Money can be changed at the State
Arrival and focal transport of Shekhawati in Rajasthan
Shekhawati is crossed by a mainline railway, linking the major towns with Delhi, Jaipur and Bikaner, but services are all hopelessly slow, unreliable and run at inconvenient times of the night; basically, you're better off" travelling into the region by bus. From Jaipur, the first town in Shekhawati you come to is Sikar, an unprepossessing market town two hours away by road (110km) that's only worth stopping in to pick up transport northwest to Nawalgarh, where you'll find better hotels and a more relaxed, rural atmosphere. Buses also run from Jaipur to Fatehpur (48km north of Sikar) - approaching from
Arrival, information and city transport to Amritsar in Haryana and Punjab
Amritsar's airport, serving Indian Airlines flights from Delhi and Chandigarh, lies 12km northwest of the city. Taxis (around Rs200) and auto-rickshaws (RslOO) run to the town centre, while buses pull into the huge, frenetic bus stand off GT Road on the eastern edge of the city centre. The railway station lies on the northern edge of the centre, 2km west of the interstate bus stand. PTDC's tourist office, Youth Hostel, Mall Mandi. GT Road (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm: ©0183/231452) is friendly, helpful and has useful information on bus and other travel connections. Amritsar is too large and labyrinthine to negotiate on foot. If
Arrival, information and city transport in Haryana and Punjab
Served by flights to and from Delhi, Amritsar and Leh, Chandigarh's airport lies 11km south of the city centre. Facilities include an Indian Airlines office (0172/704539), a branch of the State Bank of Patiala and a taxi stand. The railway station lies 8km southeast of the centre, connected by half-hourly buses or auto-rickshaws and taxis. The prepaid rickshaw counter is worth queuing for as rates are fixed. There's a useful Current Reservations ticket office, although Northern Railway's main computerized reservation counter is at the bus terminal (Mon-Sat 8am—8pm). All state transport buses pull in to the main transport and information hub -
Information of the Agra in the Uttar Pradesh
Agra has two tourist offices, one run by the Government of India, at 191 The Mall (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-1pm), and one run by UF Tourism, close to the darks Shimz, at 64 Taj Rd (same hours); there is also an information booth at Cantonment station. The Government of India office is better organized and provides information about other destinations, though both supply information on hotels and local sights, and details of tours that start and end at Agra Cantonment railway station.
Arrival, city transport and information to Ujjain in Western Madhy Pradesh
Trains arriving in Ujjain on both broad-gauge branches of the Western Railway pull-in at the station in the centre of town; Ujjain is on a link line between Indore and Bhopal, with regular intercity trains shunting between the three. Two minutes' walk northeast of the station is the Dewas Gate bus stand, where buses for Gwalior, Agra, Rajasthan and Bhopal depart. The inconvenient P.D.V. Bus Stand, next to the MPTDC Yatri Niwas, serves Indore, Bhopal and Mandu. The city is fairly spread out, so you'll need to get around by auto-rickshaw or by renting a bicycle from the shop opposite
Arrival, information and city transport in Ahmedabad
Ahmedabad's international airport (079/642 5633) is linked to the city, 10km south, by prepaid taxi (Rs200-250), auto-rickshaw (Rs80-100) and city bus #101, which terminates at Lai Darwaja, the station for local buses in the west of the old city, near most of the hotels. Long-distance buses arrive at the ST Bus Stand in the southeast of the old city, lkm from the hotels, while the railway station is to the east, at the far end of Relief Road and MG Road. City buses to Lai Darwaja run from both the railway station (#48. #122 and #133) and the bus stand
Arrival, information and city transport of Guwahati in the Northeast
The railway station lies in the centre of town, with the state bus stand. which operates a left-luggage service (4.30am-10.30pm), right behind. The back of the railway station leads into the hectic Pakan Bazaar area, from which most of the private bus companies operate. Guwahati airport, 18km east of the centre, is served by taxis (from outside the Nandan Hotel) and airport buses, including those run by Indian Airlines. The Assam government tourist office in the Tourist Lodge on Station Road (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) organizes day-trips and longer tours; their day- and overnight-packages to Kaziranga
Arrival, information and local transport in Himachal Pradesh
Buses arriving on the main Chandigarh and Manali highways approach Shimla from the west, via Cart Road and pull in at the chaotic main bus stand, halfway around the hill. Buses from Narkanda, Rampur and Kinnaur arrive at the Rivoli bus stand (or"Lakkar Bazaar") on the north side ot the Ridge, though some continue to the main bus stand. Shimla's airport lies 21km southeast of town on the Mandi road atjubarhati. The HPTDC main tourist office (daily: high season 9am-7pm: low season 9am-6pm; 0177/252561), is located on the Mall near Scandal Point. They organize whistle-stop sightseeing tours to destinations around Sbimla,
Arrival, information and transport to the Lucknow in Central UP
From Amausi Airport, 16km south on the Kanpur Road, a taxi to the centre of Lucknow costs around Rsl50. Airport buses connect with flights. Lucknow s main Charbagh Railway Station (for computerized reservations), 4km southwest of the central hub of Hazratganj, is itself a remarkable building, with prominent chhatris above the entrance arcade and a roof inspired by chess pieces. Most buses, including those from Varanasi, Allahabad, Agra, Jhansi and Kanpur, arrive at the main Charbagh Bus Stand alongside, while some buses from the Nepal border at Sonauh and from Gorakhpur, Faizabad and Ayodhya pull in at the Kaisarbagh stand, near
Arrival, information and city transport in the Varanasi at Eastern UP
An airport bus (Rs25) connects with flights landing at Babatpur Airport, 22km northwest of the city, and goes to the Indian Airlines office, via the Government of India Tourist Office, both in the Cantonment area. Taxis charge around Rs20D-250 for the same journey. Varanasi lies on the main east-west axis between Delhi and Calcutta, and is actually served by two stations: Varanasi Cantonment in the town itself, and Mughal Sarai, 17km out of town. Varanasi Cantonment is the most conveniently located, but depending on where you are travelling from, you may find yourself using the Mughal Sarai line. There are retiring
Practicalities in North Bengal
Kalimpong, only accessible by road, is served by regular buses, taxis and Jeeps from Darjeeling and Siliguri. Direct transport to and from Gangtok in Sikkim tends to be limited; you could also connect from Gangtok Siliguri transport for local taxis or buses at the crossroads near the Teesta Bridge (no photography permitted) over the fast-flowing River Teesta. A sign near the crossroads welcomes you to Kalimpong although the town itself is 15km further on, and more than 1000m higher up. Since the advent of the new Bridge, Teesta Bazaar on the other side of the river is no longer the
Arrival, information and transport in North Bengal
Virtually all travellers arriving in Darjeeling from the plains come via Siligun, whether by the Toy Train, shared Jeep or bus. Jeeps and buses stop at the bus stand in the lower half of the town from where it's a bit of an uphill trek to the main hotel area. Taxis and some Jeeps will take you up to Clubside near the Mall, at the upper end of town; porters are available (from Rs20), but be careful as some act as touts so you could end up paying more for your room. Darjeeling is best explored on foot - in
Arrival and information in Delhi
Delhi is India's main point of arrival for overseas visitors, and has two airports, one domestic and one international. State buses from all over the country pull into the Inter-state Bus Terminal in Old Delhi, while private buses stop in the more central location close to New Delhi railway station. Trains arrive at the railheads in Old or New Delhi, both well connected to Connaught Place, the commercial centre of the city, by rickshaw and taxi. For a summary of the kinds of accommodation available in different areas of the city, which may well determine where you head first, see p.
Practicalities to the Jhansi Southern UP
Trains on both of the Central Railway branches that converge on Jhansi pull in at the station on the west side of town, near the Civil Lines area. Both of the two state tourist information kiosks on platform one are useless but MP Tourism's does give out leaflets on the .most up-to-date methods of transport on to Khajuraho. In town, the Regional Tourist Office, Hotel Veerangana, provides literature and information on Bundelkhand and the route to Khajuraho (Mon-Sat 10aim-5pm. closed every 2nd Sat). Jhansi is the most convenient main railway station for Khajuratio, Orchha and Deogarh. From the railway station, the
Arrival and information Gwalior
Gwalior's main-line railway station, linked to Delhi, Agra, Jhansi and Bhopal by the fast Shatabdi Express, lies in the east of the city, just around the corner from the state bus stand. Most of the decent accommodation is within walking distance of the station, with more places an auto-rickshaw ride away to the west, down the busy MLB (Maharani Lakshmi Bai) Road. If you're travelling light, you could save on the fare by squeezing into one of the inexpensive tempos that run along Station Road. Gwalior airport, 9km to the northeast of the centre, is served by taxis and auto-rickshaws.