India Travel
Bhimbetka in Madhya Pradesh
Shortly after NH-12 peels away from the main Bhopal—Hoshangabad road, 45km southeast of the state capital, a long line of boulders appears high on a scrub-covered ridge to the west. The hollows, overhangs and crevices eroded over the millennia from the crags of this malleable sandstone outcrop harbour one of the world’s largest collections of prehistoric rock art.
Discovered in 1957 by the archeologist Dr VS. Wankaner, BHIMBETKA (sunrise-sunset; free) is South Asia’s equivalent of the cave complexes at Lascaux in southwest France and Altamira in Spain, or the rock paintings of aboriginal Australia. If you have your own transport, or are prepared to do a bit of walking to get there, this rarely visited site makes a fascinating day-trip from Bhopal. Initially, the paintings are hard to find and decipher but the chowkidars sitting at the entrance to the cave area are pleased to show you around for a bit of baksheesh. Of the thousand shelters so far catalogued along the ten-kilometre hilltop, around half contain rock paintings. These date from three different periods, each with its own distinctive style. The oldest fall into two categories: green outline drawings of human figures, and large red images of animals. Lumps of hematite (from which the red pigment was manufactured) unearthed amid the deepest excavations on the site have been carbon-dated to reveal origins in the Upper Paleolithic era, around 10,000 years ago.
The second, and more prolific phase accounts for the bulk of Bhimbetkas rock art, and took place in the Late Mesolithic era - the “Stone Age” - between 8000 and 5000 BC. These friezes depict dynamic hunting scenes full of rampaging animals, initiation ceremonies, burials, masked dances, sports, wars, pregnant women, an arsenal of different weapons and even what seems to be a drinking party. No one is sure why these sophisticated communities of hunter-gatherers decorated their temporary abodes in this way. One theory is that the cave art served the ritual or magical function of ensuring a plentiful supply of game; but while abundant depictions of bison, wild boar, antelope and deer lend credence to that notion, animals that were not on the Mesolithic menu, such as tigers and elephants, also appear.
Shards of pottery found amid the accumulated detritus on the rock-shelter floors show that Bhimbetkas third and final spate of cave painting took place during the early historic period, alter its inhabitants had begun to trade with settled agriculturalists. Their stylized, geometric figures bear a strong resemblance to the art still produced by the region’s adivasi, or tribal groups.
From the car park at the top of the hill, a paved pathway winds through the jumble of rocks containing the most striking and accessible of Bhimbetka s paintings. As you wander around, look out for the Paleolithic images in green, [he wonderful “X-ray” animals filled in with cross-hatching and complex geometric designs, and the recurrent image of a bull chasing a human figure and a crab - a motif believed to represent a struggle between the totemic heroes of three different tribes. At the bottom of the track, on the base of a tall column of sandstone not included in the guide’s whistle-stop tour, there’s also a very fine wild boar in black and red.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Bhimbetka Practicalities in Madhya Pradesh
The only way of getting to the caves at Bhimbetka is by private vehicle or taxi. From Bhopal, take NH-12, and 7km after the market town of Obaidullaganj, take a left when you see a sign in Hindi with "3.2" written on it. Cross the railway line and the caves are 3km further on along the road. There's nowhere to eat or drink for miles around Bhimbetka, so bring a day's supply of food and water with you.
Central Madhya Pradesh
All roads through the central regions of Madhya Pradesh lead to the state's capital, and its largest and fastest growing city - Bhopal. The city itself may come as a pleasant surprise; amidst the dust and chaos of a metropolitan centre there are plentj of quiet parks around its two lakes. Bhopal is also a good place to break the long journey between south and north; within a couple of hours reach is the unmissable Buddhist stupa complex at Sanchi.and there arc other lesser monuments in the area. The prehistoric site of Bhimbetka is just 45km south of Bhopal, while
Around Bhopal Madhya Pradesh
Within a couple ot hours' journey from Bhopal lie a wealth ot ancient monuments, all ot which are generally more impressive than the state capital's own historic sights.To the northeast, die third-century BC stupas at Sanchi can be seen in an easy day-trip from Bhopal, or as a stopover as you head north on the Central Railway. Sanchi's peaceful setting and good facilities make it an ideal base for visits to more stupas at Satdhara, or to Udaigiri's rock-cut caves and die nearby Column of Heliodorus at Besnagar.Avid templo-philes with the luxury of dieir own vehicle may also be enticed
Detials of Madhya Pradesh
Hot, dusty MADHYA PRADESH is a vast landlocked expanse of scrub-covered hills, sun-parched plains and dense tree cover that accounts for one third of India's forests. Stretching from beyond the headwaters of the mighty River Narmada, at the borders of Orissa and Bihar, to the fringes of the Western Ghats, it's a transitional zone between (fre Gangetic lowlands in the north and the high dry Deccan plateau to the south. '. Despite its diverse array of exceptional attractions, ranging from ancient itemples and hilltop forts to superb, isolated wildlife reserves, Madhya Pradesh receives only a fraction of the tourist traffic that
Details of Southern UP: Bundelkhand
BUNDELKHAND - the area defined by the craggy Vindhya Mountains, which stretch across southern UP - was carved by the ninth-century Chandella Rajputs into a mighty kingdom that included Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh (see p.468).Today, it abounds in relics of the past - the colossal astrologically aligned fortress at Kalinjar that was the Chandella capital of Mahoba, the Vaishnavite pilgrimage centre of Chitrakut, and the fortified town of Jhansi, scene of epic nineteenth-century resistance to the British. However, the sheer harshness of the terrain, and the all but unbearable heat in the summer, make this the most difficult, if intriguing,
Visiting Madhya Pradesh
In addition to its historic sites, Madhya Pradesh boasts a number of wildlife reserves, of which two are amongst the finest on the subcontinent. In the sparsely populated east, remote savannah grasslands are an ideal habitat for deer and bison, while the shady sal forests and tarai swamplands that surround the maidans provide perfect cover for larger predators such as the tiger. Of the national parks hidden away in this area, Kanha is deservedly popular, though tiger sightings here are on the decline. For the big cats, trek out to Bandhavgarh national park to the north. Getting around Madhya Pradesh without
Details of Jhansi in Southern UP
Unless you harbour a passion for seventeenth-century forts, you'll find the rail-and road-junction town of JHANSI. located in an anomalous promontory of UP that thrusts south into Madhya Pradesh, unremittingly dull. Most visitors only stop long enough to catch a connecting bus to Khajuraho, 175km further southeast in Madhya Pradesh. Until 1742, Jhansi was a sleepy satellite village of the Bundela capital at nearby Orchha, 18km southeast. When the local raja died without a male heir in 1853, the British enacted the controversial Principle of Lapse to wrest control of the town from his widow. Four years later, resentment at this
Central Madhya Pradesh Bhopal
With well over a million inhabitants, BHOPAL, the capital of Madhya Pradesh, has a skyline of minarets jutting from tightly packed streets and sprawling from the eastern shores of a huge artificial lake. Yet to the west there are verdant hills hiding nouveau-riche suburbs and the more expensive hotels. Below them on Upper Lake, little fishing boats bob along the shore, while middle-class families get down to some serious pedalo action. In addition to the nineteenth-century mosques that bear witness to Bhopals enduring Muslim legacy, the packed bazaars of the walled old city are well worth a visit. Elsewhere, excellent archeological
Western Madhya Pradesh
The geography of western Madhya Pradesh is dominated by the River IVnmada. which drains westwards through a wide alluvial valley, bounded in the south by the Satpura hills and the Maharashtran border, and in the north by the rugged Vindhya Range. Forming the major trade corridor between the Ganges plains and the west coast, the region - known as Malwa - was for nearly a thousand years an independent princely state ruled from the sprawling hilltop fort complex at Mandu. The former capital, now deserted, is the area's outstanding tourist attraction, with its ruined mosques, tanks and palaces, and its
The state archeological museum in Madhya Pradesh
Hidden away near Raj Bhavan, just south of Lower Lake, the modest, poorly labelled collection of ancient sculpture, bronzes and Moghul miniatures at the state archeological museum, or Rajkiya Satigrahalaya (Tues-Sat l0am-5pm), is only likely to inspire real enthusiasts. It you do end up here, among the more noteworthy exhibits in the main gallery are the second-century BC yakshis (female fertility figures), the standing Buddha in black granite and the fifth-century statue of Karttikeya, the Hindu god of war. The far wall in the last gallery holds a reproduction of the famous - but now badly damaged - Bagh frescoes,
The chhatris at Orchha in Madhya Pradesh
A solemn row of pale brown weed-choked domes and spires, the riverside chhatris are Orchha's most melancholy ruins and a fitting place to end a tour of the village. The fourteen cenotaphs, memorials to Bundelkhand's former rulers, are best viewed from the narrow road bridge or, better still, from the boulders on the opposite bank, where you get the full effect of their reflection in the still waters of the Betwa.
Accommodation and eating in Eastern Madhya Pradesh
Most of Bandhavgarh s new and established hotels, all of which are in Tala, cater for travellers on a higher budget, and offer "jungle-plan" prices - all-inclusive 24hr deals including meals and two Jeep safaris per person. However, there are also a few budget lodges and mid-priced hotels. The only option for eating outside your hotel is at one of the friendly, cheap dhabas on the main road.
Crafts in Hyderabad
Crafts Leepakshi The AP state government emporium at Gun foundry on MG Road, stocks a wide range of handicrafts, including Bidri metalwork, jewellery and silks. Utkalika (Government of Orissa handicrafts), House no. 60-1 -67, between the Ravindra Bharati building and Hotel Ashoka, has a modest selection of silver filigree jewellery, hand-loom cloth, ikhattie-dye, Jagannath papier-mache. Figures and buffalo bore carvings. Cheneta Bhavan is a modem shopping complex a little south of the railway station, stuffed with hand-loom cloth shops from various states, including Tamil Nadu. Uttar Pradesh. Rajasthan. Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh. For silks and saris, try Meena Bazaar. Pocfiampally
Northern Madhya Pradesh
The remoteness of the famous temples at Khajuraho. with their superbly tirved erotic sculptures, means that many visitors find themselves passing ptough a large tract of northern Madhya Pradesh. Few choose to linger in the region, however, preferring to return to the main Delhi-Agra artery or move onto Varanasi, Yet this much-trodden trail passes within striking distance of several other sights which are well worth taking time out to see. Foremost among them is the hill-fort at Gwalior. In addition to the immaculately restored palaces and ancient Hindu temples within the fort itself, the city also boasts, in extravagant European-style
The City of Ujjain in Western Madhya Pradesh
The Western Railway cuts straight through the centre of the city, forming a neat divide between the spacious and affluent residential suburbs to the south, and the more interesting, densely packed streets northwest of the station. Unless you spend all day wandering through the bazaar, sightseeing in Ujjain usually means treading the temple trail, with a brief foray south of the ghats to visit theVedha Shala observatory.
Museum of Natural History in Madhya Pradesh
The newly constructed Regional Museum of Natural History (Tues-Sat 10am-5prn; free) is several kilometres southeast of New Market, so again the only real option is to go by auto-rickshaw. Around a courtyard with model dinosaurs and colourful murals there are attractive and well-written displays on biodiversity and ecosystems, and on the geological history of the earth. There are also temporary exhibitions, a discovery centre (10.30ani-noon & 2.30-4pm) and a film show at 4pm.
Eastern Madhya Pradesh
On the tourist trail, Eastern Madhya Pradesh is singularly and justifiably famous for its amazing abundance of wildlife. Amid the rolling terraced plains and craggy cliffs are hidden two of the country's finest national parks. Kanha and Bandhavgarh. In the few remaining fragments of a forest that until 150 years ago extended right across central India, the reserves are among the last strongholds for many endangered species of birds and mammals, including the tiger, gaur (bison) and barasingha (swamp deer). The whole eastern area is deep in adivasi country; the villages of the Gond and Barga tribes dot the scrubby
Pachmarhi Accommodation in Madhya Pradesh
Finding accommodation in Pachmarhi is a problem during the melas and during May and June, when visitors flock to escape the heat of the plains. The tourist information counter at the bus stand can tell you which of the eight MPTDC hotels have vacancies; otherwise several pleasant and friendly private places in the bazaar are good alternatives. These independent establishments will all negotiate good discounts outside the October to March high season; MPTDC offers a twenty-percent "monsoon discount".
The Central Museum in Western Madhya Pradesh
Indore's Central Museum (Mon-Sac 10am-5pm) is over in the southeast of the city, near the GPO. Its large collection includes finds from nearby prehistoric sites, as well as fine Jain and Hindu sculpture from the ruined eleventh-and twelfth-century temples at Hinlajgarh. The downstairs gallery boasts a handful of priceless Harappan terracottas unearthed at Mohenjo Daro, in southern Pakistan. None of the exhibits is adequately labelled, but the museum attendants are happy to show you around.
Udayapur in Madhya Pradesh
Remote, rural UDAYAPUR. 73km northeast of Bhopal, is the site of one of Madhya Pradesh's least-visited architectural gems. Unfortunately, to get there from Bhopal orVidisha you have to catch a train to Basoda and then a local bus for the final 10km. Check the return times carefully before leaving, as there's nowhere to stay in the town, with the possible exception of the first-class waiting room at the railway station. The magnificent Neelkantheswara temple, built in 1(180 AD by the Paramara king Udayadita, took 22 years to complete and is considered to be on a par with its illustrious cousins at