India Travel
Blood sacrifice in Sarahan Practicalities in Himachal Pradesh
Buses from Shimla to Sangla and Rekong Peo pass through the small town of Jeori, from where several buses a day travel 20km south to Sarahan; taxis ate also available. Alternatively, there’s a direct bus service from Rampur. Keen walkers might fancy ambling along the well-worn mule track to Sarahan from Jeori which takes about ninety minutes. Accommodation at Sarahan itself is fairly limited- HPTDC’s Hotel Srikhcmd (01782/203294) is a concrete monster, but with a delightful garden. Rooms are clean and comfortable, though overpriced, and come with hot water and views of the valley. There’s also a dorm (Rs50) and a cheaper annexe. Its restaurant offers a good veg menu in a relaxing terrace with fine views over the mountains to the north. The Temple Res! House, inside the Bhimakali courtyard, has clean and pleasant rooms. More luxurious rooms with attached baths in the new wing are excellent value, and there’s the option of dorm accommodation (Rs50).The Snow View (01782/74260) has rooms and hot water by the bucket. “When the temple kitchens aren’t dishing up their usual cheap and filling pilgrims food, try one of the several dhabas around the square outside.
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Blood sacrifice in Sarahan in Himachal Pradesh
The Bhima Kali deity, a local manifestation of the black-faced, bloodthirsty Hindu goddess Kali (Durga), has for centuries been associated with human sacrifice. Once every decade, until the disapproving British intervened in the 1800s, a man was killed here as an offering to the dm. Following a complex ceremony, his newly spilled blood was poured over the goddess's tongue for her to drink, after which his body was dumped in a deep well inside che temple compound, if no victim could be found, it is said that a voice would bellow from the depths of the pit, which is now
Sarahan near the Shimla in Himachal Pradesh
Secluded SARAHAN, erstwhile summer capital of the Bhushar rajas, sits astride a 2000-metre ledge above the River Sutlej, near the Shimla—Kannaur border. Set against a spectacular backdrop, the village har bours one of the northwestern Himalaya's most exotic spectacles - Bhimakali temple.With its two multi-tiered sanctuary towers, elegantly sloping slate-tiled roofs, and gleaming golden spires, it is the most majestic early timber temple in the Sutlej Valley - an area renowned for housing holy shrines on raised wooden platforms. Although most of the structure dates from the early twentieth century, parts are thought to be more than eight hundred years
Shimla and around in Himachal Pradesh
Shimla. Himachal's capital, is India's largest and most famous hill station, where much of the action in Rudyard Kipling's colonial classic Kim took place. While the city is a favourite spot for Indian families and honeymooners, its size does little to win it popularity among Western tourists who tend to pass through on their way to Manali. It is however, a perfect halfway house if Vo ' heading to the Kullu Valley, or back in the other direction towards the of Haryana and Punjab. It's also the starting post for forays into the rerrtnr regions of Kinnaur and Spiti. Northeast of
Northeast of Shimla: from Narkanda to Sarahan in Himachal Pradesh
Another hill town seeing few foreign visitors is NARKANDA (2725m); a scruffy collection of corrugated-iron and timber houses, chai stalk, and wayside dhabas, 65km northeast of Shimla. This former staging post on the Hindustan-Tibet caravan route gained popularity during the Raj era for bear hunting. You won't see many bears today as much of the surrounding forests have been mercilessly logged, but there are some good rambles through the cedar forests and the views of the Himalayas are reward enough for corning here. Three hours' from Shimla, Narkanda makes a good resting point on the bumpy, six-hour journey to Sarahan.
Arrival, information and local transport in Himachal Pradesh
Buses arriving on the main Chandigarh and Manali highways approach Shimla from the west, via Cart Road and pull in at the chaotic main bus stand, halfway around the hill. Buses from Narkanda, Rampur and Kinnaur arrive at the Rivoli bus stand (or"Lakkar Bazaar") on the north side ot the Ridge, though some continue to the main bus stand. Shimla's airport lies 21km southeast of town on the Mandi road atjubarhati. The HPTDC main tourist office (daily: high season 9am-7pm: low season 9am-6pm; 0177/252561), is located on the Mall near Scandal Point. They organize whistle-stop sightseeing tours to destinations around Sbimla,
Chamba festivals in Himachal Pradesh
Chamba's annual four-day Suhi Mata Festival, in early April, commemorates Rani Champavati, the wife of the tenth-century Raja Sahil Verman, who gave her name to the town. A curious legend relares that when water from a nearby stream failed to flow through a channel supposed to divert it to the town, local brahmins advised Raja Verman that either his son or his wife would have to sacrifice themselves.The queen obliged; she was buried alive at the head of the channel, and the water flowed freely. Only women and children participate in the festival, dancing on the clioifgati before processing with
Nalagarh Fort Shimla in Himachal Pradesh
If you can afford it, the eighteenth-century fort of Nalagarh converted into probably the finest hotel in Himachal Pradesh, is an excellent place to break the journey between Delhi and Kullu. Overlooking the Punjab plains, the fort lies 60km from Chandigarh and 12km off the main Chandigarh-Mandi road. Towering above the town with the Himachal foothills rising steeply behind, the fort played a key role in the Gurkha wars of the early nineteenth century, and is today filled with memorabilia evoking its military past. An Ayurvedic clinic offering massage and a shop selling various health potions add to the luxury.
Moving on from Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh
Indian Airlines fly thrice weekly to Delhi (Mon, Wed, Fri 3pm). HRTC run numerous buses to destinations in Himachal Pradesh, Delhi and Chandigarh. Most travellers prefer to book "deluxe" buses through operators in McLeod Ganj near the bus stand. Try Himachal Travels (01892/21428) or Potala Tours & Travels, Bhagsu Road, opposite Hotel Tibet (01892/21378). Buses to Pathankot, handy for train connections and road access to Dalhousie and Chamba leave every 30min from the rains bus stand in the lower town. As well as the services listed in the Travel Details on p.589, there are two or three buses a week
Moving on from Shimla in Himachal Pradesh
The toy train leaves Shimla for Kalka, where you can change onto the main broad-gauge line for Chandigarh and New Delhi. The 10.35am departure from Shimla will get you into Kalka just in time to catch the 4.50pm Himalayan Queen #4096, arriving in New Delhi just after 10pm. The other toy train services depart at 2.25pm, 5.30pm, and 5.45pm, arriving in Kalka at 8.15pm, 10.15pm, and 10.55pm respectively. Reservations for onward journeys from Kalka can be made at Shimla station (0177/252915; enquiries 131). Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Chandigarh and continue to Delhi by train from there. The main
Tabo Practicalities in Himachal Pradesh
There are a number of accommodation options in Tabo. The friendly, atmospheric Millennium Monastery Guest House. Out side the main monastery gates has simple rooms, with and without en suite, as well as dorm accommodation (Rs50). At the nearby Cafe Kimzam-Top, the affable Pema dishes up both Tibetan and Indian food, and also runs a small guesthouse and campsite off the main road. For a bit more comfort, try the Himalayan Ajanta. next to the State Bank near the new temple gates, and the PWD Rest House. with large comfortable rooms and attached bathrooms. Three buses a day travel to
The Hadimba temple in Himachal Pradesh
Resting on a wide stone platform in a dense stand of old deodar, fifteen minutes' walk northwest of the bazaar, the Hadimba temple is Manali's oldest shrine and the seat ot Hadimba (or "Hirma Devi"), wife of Bhima. Legend has it that Bhima (the strongest of the five Pandava brothers of Mahahharata fame) fell in love with this "mountain belle", the only sister of the fierce demon Tandi, killed by Bhima in hand-to-hand combat. Considered to be an incarnation of Kali, Hadimba is worshipped in times of adversity, and also plays a key role in the Dussehra festival. Hadimba is
Chamba in Himachal Pradesh
Shielded on all sides by high mountains, and protected by forces in Kangra to the south, Chamba was ruled or over a millennium by kings descended from
The castle in Himachal Pradesh
Since it was erected by Raja Sidh Singh, Nagar's central castle, astride a sheer-sided bluff, has served as palace, colonial mansion, courthouse and school. It is now a Himachal-run hotel, but nonresidents can wander in to admire the views from its balconies. Built in the traditional "earthquake-proof" pahari style (layers of stone bonded together with cedar logs), the castle has a central courtyard, next to which stands a small museum, and an even smaller shrine. The Jagti Patt temple's amorphous deity, a triangular slab of rock strewn with rose petals and rupee notes, is said to have been borne here
Practicalities Kalpa in Himachal Pradesh
Kalpa is a far more attractive place to stay than Rekong Peo. Al though finding accommodation can involve some walking, HPDTC offer three options: the Khmer Kailash Resort (01786/26159), the Kitmer Kaiksh Cottage. and the Kitiner Villa, 300m from the main complex. Below Kinner Villa. the Tiniberlinc Trekking Camp offers luxurious tents and meals. Other options include the Shivalik Guest House (01786/26158). Immediately below the tourist complex, and the Forest Rest House. a splendid bungalow at the top of the village, with large rooms and superb views from its garden fl head up the dirt track that turns right off
Himachal Pradesh
Ruffled by the lower ridges of the Shivalik Range in the far south, cut through by the Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar ranges in the northwest, and dominated by the great Himalayas in the north and east, HIMACHAL PRADESH (HP) is India's most popular and easily accessible hill state. Sandwiched between the Punjab and Tibet, its lowland orchards, subtropical forests and maize fields peter out in the higher reaches where pines cling to the steep slopes of mountains whose inhospitable peaks soar in rocky crags and forbidding ice fields to heights of more than 6000m. Together with
The Manali –Leh Travel details in Himachal Pradesh
Trains Pathankot to Joginder Nagar (2 daily; 7hr 30min-9hr10min). Shimla to: Kalka (4 daily; 4hr 45min-5hr 45min). Buses Dalhousie to: Amritsar (2 daily; 5hr 30min);Jullundhar (1 daily; 6hr); Kliajjiar (2 daily; 1hr);Pathankot (hourly; 3hr30min). Dharamsaia to: Baijnath (hourly; 3hr 30min);Chamba (1 daily; 9hr); Chandigarh (6 daily; 7-8hr);Dalhousie (1 daily; 6hr-7hr); Delhi (6 daily; 12hr);Dehra Dun (1 daily; 9hr); Haridwar (1 daily; 14hr);Jawalamukhi (8 daily; 2hr 30min); Kangra (every15min: 45min-1hr); Kullu (4 daily; 8hr); Manali (4daily; 10hr); Mandi (7 daily; 6hr); McLeod Ganj(every 20min; 40min); Nahan (1 daily; 12hr);Pathankot (10 daily; 3hr). Chamba to: Amritsar (1 daily; 8hr); Brahmour (7daily; 3hr); Dalhousie (10 daily; 2hr 30min); Delhi(1
The Kangra valley railway in Himachal Pradesh
India has five of the twenty or so vintage "toy trains" or narrow-gauge mountain railways in the world - three in the Himalayas and two of these in Himachal Pradesh. Most famous is the Kalka—Shimla line, but the little-known 163-kilometre Kangra Valley railway is also a magnificent engineering feat. Unlike the Kalka line, with its 103 tunnels and tortuous switchbacks, engineers of this route preferred bridges - 950 in all. many of which are still considered masterpieces - that give passengers uninterrupted views all the way from Pathankot to Jogindernagar. The Dhaula Dhar mountains, rising from the valley floor to
Practicalities Rampur in Himachal Pradesh
Rampur has onward bus connections to Rekong Peo and direct through Kinnaui all the way to Kaza in Spiti, and - when the road is open - to Kullu. Inner Line Permits for Kinnaui can be obtained from the District Magistrate's office, or else in Rekong Peo (see p.533). The best of the budget lodges near the bus stand is the poky Rama Guest House (01782/33136; O). For a little more comfort head to the Hotel Bhagavati (01782/33117), at the bottom of the bazaar. Back on the main road, the helpful Highway Home (01782/33063) has a popular restaurant and bar. By
The hike to Jakhu temple in Himachal Pradesh
The early-morning hike up to the Jakhu, or "monkey", temple is something of a tradition in Shimla. The top of the lull (2455m) on which it stands offers a superb panorama of the Himalayas - particularly breathtaking before the bubbles of cloud blister up later in the day. The relentlessly steep climb takes twenty to forty minutes. Visitors with mobility problems may want to arrange a horse; a couple usually hang around in the main square opposite the Gandhi statue. During the season, all you have to do is follow the crowds. The path starts just left of Christ Church. After
Local transport in Himachal Pradesh
Wherever you arrive in Shimla, you'll be mobbed by porters. Most of the town is pedestrianized, and seriously steep, so you maybe glad of the extra help to carry your gear, but bear in mind that most porters double as touts and demand a commission which will increase the cost of your room. Taxis, which line up outside the Tourist Reception Centre on Cart Road, are the best way to get to tne pricier hotels on the outskirts. The mainVishal Himachal Taxi Union rank ("30177/257645) is lkm east of the bus stand, at the bottom of the elevator (Rs5 each