India Travel

Delhi’s main railhead. New Delhi Station at the eastern end of Paharganj. less than ikm north of Connaught Place, has regular departures to all corners of India, and a very efficient booking office (Mon-Sat 8am-5pm) for foreign tourists, on the first floor of the main departure building. They’ll give you advice on the fastest trains, and you should have little difficulty finding a seat or berth: women travelling alone in second class may prefer to ask for a berth in the ladies’ carriage. Foreigners must show passports, and pay in foreign currency or in rupees backed up by exchange certificates. Ignore roadside advice to book train tickets elsewhere, and don’t try buying one at the reservations building down the road, a confusion of queues and crowds. Also, ignore warnings that the tourist booking office is closed during the above hours.

Most southbound trains leave from New Delhi, many stopping also at Old Delhi station, where you can board the train if it’s more convenient. All trains to Rajasthan, except those to Bharatpur. Kota and Sawai Madhopur, begin their journey at Old Delhi or Sarai Rohilla station, which is several kilometres to the west of Old Delhi railway station. Bookings can be made at the tourist office in New Delhi station and at the bus terminal. Quite a few trains to south and central India originate at Hazrat Nizamuddin station, a rickshaw ride away, southeast of Purana Qila, so check carefully when you buy your ticket.

See the box on p. 153 for recommended trains from Delhi, and the Travel Details at the end of this chapter for a summary of the main train services from the capital.

Delhi has two major railway stations. New Delhi Station is east of Paharganj (Main Bazaar), and within walking distance of many of the area’s budget hotels, though courists burdened with luggage often prefer to hail a cycle rickshaw to reach their hotel, which shouldn’t cost more than Rs20 -negotiate the fare in advance. If you’re heading for hotels south of the station, however, bear in mind that cycle rickshaws cannot enter Connaught Place. The station has two exits, with the Paharganj exit the more popular, useful for Connaught Place and most points smith, and the Ajmeri Gate exir more convenient for Old Delhi. You can take an auto-rickshaw (insist the meter is turned on or negotiate a price before you jump in). However, the most reliable option is to book a prepaid rickshaw at the booth, close to the main road at the front of the railway station on the Paharganj side. Autos to Connaught Place cost from Rs20, and to Old Delhi from Rs35 though, unfortunately, pressure from touts has meant chat the prepaid taxi service rarely operates. Some taxis, especially those parked at the exit opposite Ajmeri GaCe, have their meters rigged and you can be assured that the touts who approach you as you exit the station will be bad news. Delhi Station in Old Delhi, west of the Red Fort, is connected to the city hotels by taxis (not prepaid) and auto-rickshaws. Both stations have retiring rooms (Rs100-250). and are notorious for theft: