India Travel

Trains

To Rajasthan: Abu Road (3-4 daily; 11hr 10min-14hr 15min); Ajmer (5-6 daily; 7hr 1 Omin-11 hr 5min); Bharatpur (5 daily; 2hr 50min-4hr 15min): Bikaner (3 daily; 1Ohr 20min-11hr 4Dmin): Chittaurgarti (2 daily: 16hr 30min); Jaipur (10-12 daily; 4hr 25min-11hr 35min); Jodfipur (2 daily; 10hr 55min-13hr 40min); Kota (7-9 daily; 4hr 40min-10hr 45min); Sawai Madhopur (7 daily; 5hr 15min-8hr 15min); Udaipur (2 daily: 15hr 10min-21hr 15min).

To Uttar Pradesh: Agra (18-20 daily: Itir 55min-4br 40min); Allahabad (10-12 daily; 7-14tir), Delira Dun (2-3 daily; 5hr 25min-10hr 20min); GoraKhpur (4-5 daily; 13hr 30min-22hr 5fnin); Kanpur (18-22 daily; 4tir 25min-8hr 20min); Lucknow (5-6 daily; 6hr-9hr lOmin); Mathura (15-16 daily; 1 hr 55min-2hr 45min); varanasi (6-12 daily; 10hr 50min-18lir).

To The east: Bhubaneshwar (2-3 daily, 21hr 25min-35hr 15min); Cuttach (2-3 daily. 24hr 20min-34hr 10minj; Gaya (9-10 daily: 11 hr 15min-17hr); Guwahati (3-4 daily; 27hr 30min-40lir 40min); Howrah, Calcutta (7 daily; 17hr 45min-34hr 15min); Puri (2 daily; 3ihr 30min-38hr lOmin): Vijayawada (6 daily; 22hr 10min-31hr35min)

To Punjab and Himachal Pradesh: Ambala Cantt (24 daily; 2lir 20min-3hr 30mm); Amritsar (9 daily; 7hr 20 min-12hr); Chandigarh (5 daily: 3hr 10min-5hr), Firozpur (2 daily; 8hr 30min); Jammu Tawi (8-9 daily; 8hr 55min-15hr); Kalka. for Shimla (3 daily; 3hr 55min-6hr 15min); Ludhiana ;12 daily: 3hr 45min-8hr 25min); Pathankot (5 daily: 10-12hr).

To Central India: Bhopal (20-22 daily: 7hr 45min-15hr 15min); Gwalior (21 -24 daily; 3hr 15min-6hr); Indore (2 daily; 13hr 35min-17lir 50min); Jhansi (21 -24 daily: 4hr 25min-8hr 10min). To Gujarat and Mumbai: Ahmedabad (3-4 daily; 13hr5min-19tir45minj; Mumbai [7-9 daily: 16hr 30min-29hr).

ToThe south: Bangalore 11-2 daily; 34hr 5min-50hr 55min); Chennai (4-5 daily; 28hr 10mirM6hr 35min): Ernakulam (2-3 daily; 46hr 10min-52hr); Hyderabad (2-3 daily; 21 hr 35rmn-34hr 45min); Kanyakumari (1 daily: 60hr); =une (1 daily; 26tir 30mm): Thimvananthapuram (2 daily; 52hr 25min-57hr 30minl: Vasco Da Gama (1 daily; 36hr 45min; change at Miraj).

Buses

Only state buses are included in this summary: for details of private buses see p.154.

To Rajasthan: Ajmer (every 30min; 9hr); Alwar (every 20min; 4hr): Bikaner (3 daily; 11hr); Chittaurgarh (1 daily; 11hr); Jaipur (every 30min: 6hr); Jodhpur (3 daily; 12hr); Kota (3 daily; 12hr); Pushkar(1 daily: 10hr).

To uttar Pradesh: Agra (every 30min; 5hr); Almora (2 daily; 12hr); Dehra Dun (every 30min; 7hr); Handwar (every 30min: 5lir 30mm); Mussoorie (3 daily: 8hr 30min); Nainital (4 daily; 9hr); Ramnagar, for Corbett National Park (hourly; 7-8hr); Rishikesh (hourly: 6hr30min).

To Haryana & Punjab and Himachal Pradesh: Amritsar (9 daily; 10hr); Chandigarh (every 20min, 5-6hr]: Dharamsala (6 daily; 12hr); Manali i2 daily: 16hr); Shimla (9 daily: 10hr).

Flights

For a list of airline addresses and travel agents,see p.148 and p.151 respectively. In the listings below. IA represents Indian Airlines, JA is Jet Airways, and SA Sahara Indian Airlines.

Delhi to
: Agra (IA 4 weekly; 35mm); Ahmedabad (IA, JA 3-5 daily; 1hr 25min); Amritsar (IA 5 weekly; 50min): Aurangabad (IA 1 daily: 3hr 25min), Bagdogra, for Siliguri and Darjeeling [JA 1-2 daily; 1 hr 55min-3hr 25min); Bangalore (IA. JA, SA 7 daily, 2hr 30min); Bhopal (IA 1-2 daily;1 hr 10min-2lir); Bhubaneshwar (IA 1 daily; 1 hr 55mm);

Calcutta (IA. JA 4-5 daily; 2-3hr 40min|; Chandigarh (IA, JA 3 weekly; 40mm); Chennai (IA. JA, SA 6-7 daily; 2hr 25min-3hr 45min); Goa (IA 2 daily; 2hr 25min); Guwahati (IA. JA 2-3 daily, 2hr 5min-2hr 25min|: Gwalior (IA 4 weekly; 45min); Hyderabad (IA 2 daily; 2hr); Indore (JA 1-2 daily; 1 hr 45min-3hr); Jaipur (IA, JA 2-4 daily; 30-45min);

Jaisalmer (IA 3 weekly; 2hr 5min); Jammu (IA 1 daily: 1 hr 10min); Jodhpur (IA 3 weekly; 55min-1hr 50min|; Khajuraho (JA 4 weekly: 1 hr—1 hr 55min); Kochi ((A 1 daily; 4hr); Kullu (JGA 2 daily; 1 hr 30min-1hr 50min): Leh ilA 4 weekly; 1 hr 15min); Lucknow (JA 3-4 daily; 50min-1hr); Mumbai (IA, JA. SA 18-21 daily; 2_4hr); Nagpur (IA 1 daily; 1 hr 25min); Patna (IA 2-3 daily; 1 hr 25min-2hr 15mm); Pune (IA, JA 2 daily; 2hr); Ranchi (IA 1 daily; 2hr 50min);

Shimla (IA 1 daily; 1 hr); Thimvananthapuram (IA 1 daily; 4hr 35min): Udaipur (IA, JA 1-2 daily; 1hr 55min); Vadodara (IA 1 daily; ihr 25min); Varanasi (IA. JA 2-3 daily: 1 hr 15mm-2hr 55min).

For journeys to neighbouring countries, there’s always the alternative of overland travel, a long haul by train and/or bus. Crossings to Pakistan should be made from Amritsar, ten hours by train from Delhi, where buses cross, the border and head to Lahore (lifts with trucks are no longer easy to find). The twice-weekly direct Delhi-Lahore bus, inaugurated by Prime Minister Vajpayee in 1998, was short-lived, terminated by the Kargil War ot 1999; check with tourist information or the ISBT in Old Delhi. Those travelling overland to Nepal should make for Gorakhpur. to pick up a bus to the border, which is easier to cross on foot so as to have a choice of Kathmaudu buses on the other side. In addition, several agencies now offer direct bus services to Kathmandu from Delhi - a gruelling two- or three-day journey that is convenient, but rarely comfortable, so you’re probably better off making your own arrangements. Connections east to Bangladesh can be made via Calcutta or Chittagong.

If you don’t already have a ticket for a flight out of India, you’ll have little trouble finding one, except between December and March when it may be difficult to get a flight at short notice. While you can buy tickets directly from the airlines, who ail have offices around Connaught Place, it saves time and leg-work co book through an agency (see p.151); reputable agents abound in Paharganj, and there are several on janpath. The cheapest deals are to be had from touts on the street; make sure they’re genuine by ringing the airline (see p.148) to check you have a seat. In any case, confirm your flight 72 hours
before leaving.

Make sure you arrive two hours prior to departure for all international flights. The obligatory Rs500 airport tax is now supposed to be automatically levied in the ticket price but there is no harm in checking this with the airline when you reconfirm your flight. Most tourists taking night-time flights book a taxi in advance (Rs250-350) to avoid sleeping at the airport, where there’s only a minimal food stall. It’s a good idea to take a little tood and drink in any case — delays are very common. If you’re travelling on your own, you should have no difficulty finding someone who will share a taxi. Otherwise, airport buses to the international airport, running from outside the Indian Airlines office at the top of janpath, cost Rs50 plus Rs.S per item of baggage. Yovi can book tickets in advance at the small office next to Indian Airlines. The journey takes around 40 minutes. Departures are as follow1: 4am, .T.30am, 7.30am, 2pm, 3.30pm. 6pm, 7.30pm. 9pm, 10.10pm and 11.30pm.

Most travellers leave India by plane, while the most likely overland destination from Delhi is Pakistan, and it’s not uncommon to head straight for Nepal.

Anyone travelling to a country that requires a visa should get the necessary documentation from the embassy concerned. Before going to the embassy, call to check opening hours, how many photos you’ll need, and the likely waiting period.

Delhi is at the centre of an extensive bus network covering much of north India’s neighbouring states. Buses can often be quicker than trams, but the long-distance ones especially tend to be uncomfortable. On long-distance routes there’s usually a choice between ramshackle state-run buses and smart soft-seated coaches run by tourist offices, hotels and private agents. Use these as much as you can — outside the main cities, all buses are state-run.

The vast majority of state-run buses depart from the Inter-state Bus Terminal near Kashmiri Gate in Old Delhi, which has a cafe and left-luggage counter. However, services for some UP hill stations like Nainital, Almora and Ramnagar (for Corbett National Park) leave from Anand Vihar ISBT across the Yamuna towards Ghaziabad. Buses to Agra. Mathura, Bharatpur,Vrindavan, Gwalior, Jaipur, Ajmer and Pushkar leave from the Sarai Kale Khan ISBT south of Hazrat Nizamuddin. However, for Jaipur and other points in Rajasthan, the Rajasthan Roadways terminal at Bikaner House, India Gate has by far the best service, with a range that includes comfortable deluxe buses. If leaving from the ISBT, be sure to arrive up to an hour before departure to allow time to find the correct counter (there are thirty or so) and book your ticket. Ask for the numbers of both platform and licence plate to ensure you board the right bus.

Private deluxe buses, in theory faster and more comfortable than state buses, usually depart from near the Ramakrishna Mission at the end of Main Bazaar, Paharganj, but some pick up passengers at hotels. Popular destinations include Kullu, Manali, and Dharamsala, which are not accessible by train, as well as towns in the UP hills, and Pushkar. Typical prices include: Rs375 to Jaipur, Rs400 to Manali, Rs400 to Dharamsala, Rs30() to Nainital and Rs400 to Pushkar.You can easily book tickets a day or two in advance at the agencies in Paharganj or Connaught Place. HPTDC run tourist coaches to Shimla and Manali from behind their office at Chandralok Building, 36 Janpath, and are slightly more expensive but not much better than the competition.

Delhi’s main railhead. New Delhi Station at the eastern end of Paharganj. less than ikm north of Connaught Place, has regular departures to all corners of India, and a very efficient booking office (Mon-Sat 8am-5pm) for foreign tourists, on the first floor of the main departure building. They’ll give you advice on the fastest trains, and you should have little difficulty finding a seat or berth: women travelling alone in second class may prefer to ask for a berth in the ladies’ carriage. Foreigners must show passports, and pay in foreign currency or in rupees backed up by exchange certificates. Ignore roadside advice to book train tickets elsewhere, and don’t try buying one at the reservations building down the road, a confusion of queues and crowds. Also, ignore warnings that the tourist booking office is closed during the above hours.

Most southbound trains leave from New Delhi, many stopping also at Old Delhi station, where you can board the train if it’s more convenient. All trains to Rajasthan, except those to Bharatpur. Kota and Sawai Madhopur, begin their journey at Old Delhi or Sarai Rohilla station, which is several kilometres to the west of Old Delhi railway station. Bookings can be made at the tourist office in New Delhi station and at the bus terminal. Quite a few trains to south and central India originate at Hazrat Nizamuddin station, a rickshaw ride away, southeast of Purana Qila, so check carefully when you buy your ticket.

See the box on p. 153 for recommended trains from Delhi, and the Travel Details at the end of this chapter for a summary of the main train services from the capital.

Indian Airlines, whose main office is in the Malhotra Building on F-Block, Connaught Place, near Wimpy, operate the largest network of internal flights, though private carriers serve more destinations; tickets can be bought through travel agents or the main offices. All flights leave from the domestic terminal, 15km southwest of town, easily reached by the convenient EATS bus service (Rs50 plus Rs5 for luggage; 30min) that departs from Pahka Bazaar, just opposite Wimpy. Rickshaws and taxis are more expensive, but slightly quicker. Passengers on domestic flights must check in two hours prior to departure. A simple food counter sells tea, coffee and snacks.
For a summary of flights from Delhi, sec the Travel Details at the end of this chapter.

Whichever direction you’re heading in, there’ll be a plane, tram or bus to get you there. Buses leave Delhi extremely frequently, and tourists are usually ensured places on trains in a reserved tourist quota. Flights should be booked as far in advance as possible, but since most routes are covered daily, nobody should have to wait too long.

Delhi has good domestic and international travel connections. Anyone heading from the south to the western Himalayas (Himachal Pradesh, Kullu. Manali, Ladakh) will pass through Delhi; it seldom takes more than a day to arrange the onward journey. Scores of travel agents sell bus and air tickets, and many hotels (budget or otherwise) will hook private buses for you; touts, concentrated at the top of Janpath, waylay tourists with promises of cheap fares, but can’t always be trusted.

NB; Booking flights and excursions through street-side touts, particularly along Janpath, is not recommended, even if they claim to be “government recognized". For the issue or renewal of ISIC cards, head to STIC, opposite Imperial Hotel. American Express, A-Block. Connaught Place: expensive, tailor-made tours of the capital, and sites further afield - card-holders only; Cox and Kings, Indira Palace, Connaught Place: international operators offering expensive and exclusive tailor-made tours; Don’t Pass Me By Tours and Travels, 79 Scindia House, nr Janpath: reliable and inexpensive tour operator specializing in road trips to Agra and through Rajasthan: Hans Travel Service, 1600 Visha! Hotel, Main Bazaar, Paharganj: friendly and reasonably priced taxi rental, private long-distance buses and tours by private car; Journeys, 4-B Jangpura, Mathura Road: excellent tailor-made tours that can be arranged via email: specialists on Rajasthan but with a wider all-India coverage;

Namaskar, Hotel Namaskar. Chandiwalan, Main Bazaar: brothers Surinder and Rajinder offer a reliable service including very competitively priced tours of Rajasthan. Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation. Bikaner House. Pandara Road: package tours of Rajasthan by bus or car. including wildlife tours of Sariska, Ranthambore and Bharatpur, plus the legendary luxury train, Palace on Wheels. Rajshree Tours and Travels, 53 Kamdhen Apartment, Plot 51, Sector 9. Rohini: specialize in renting out well-fitted motor caravans with the (recommended) option of having a chauffeur; this is a unique way to tour Rajasthan; Sita World Travel, F-12 Connaught Place: well-established operators specializing in international and domestic flights, package tours and money change: Student Travel Information Centre, STIC Travels PVT, 1 st floor.

Chandralok Building, opposite Imperial Hotel. Janpath; excellent organization who will book your tours and travel, and sort out any travel problems giving unbiased advice: Thomas Cook, Hotel Imperial, Janpath: comprehensive travel service from a well-established operator; Travelite, 5H & 6EVandana Building, Tolstoy Marg: efficient tour group, organizing any kind of trip, from the Golden Triangle to extensive tours of India and Nepal; Travel Corporation of India, Hotel Metro. N49 Connaught Place): efficient tour operators and travel agents now owned by Thomas Cook, who book train and air tickets, run tours and provide bargain rates for select luxury hotels in Delhi and elsewhere in India; Trip Travels, 13 Tolstoy Lane, behind tourist office : popular and trustworthy travel service dealing with international airlines and sometimes offering discounts, Ys Tours & Travels, YMCA, Jai Singh Road: you can avoid queues by obtaining train tickets here; Youth Hostelling International, 5 Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri: extremely good-value treks in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh.
in rupees (backed up by exchange certificates], or foreign currency - and take plenty of change For longer renewals, you’ll have to first liaise with the Ministry of Home Affairs, Lok Nayak Bhavan. Khan Market (Mon-Fn l0am-noon. If you’ve been in India more than 120 days, you’ll need to get a tax clearance certificate before you can leave, from the foreign section of the Income Tax Office. Indraprastha Estate (Mon-Fri irjam-1pm&2-5pm) in the Central Revenue Building next to the FRO; bring bank certificates.

Yoga centres Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Nataraja Centre, A41 Kailasti Colony. Tushita Mahayana Meditation Centre, 9 Padmini Enclave. Hauz Khas. Yoga Shakti Mission, 14-20 Ajit Arcade. Kailash Colony; Yoga Vishwatayan. Ashoka Road. Yoga and Natural Health Care Centre.