India Travel

Trains

Bhopal to: Agra (16-20 daily; 5hr 30min-10hr); Chennai (3-5 daily; 23-32hr); Delhi (18-22 daily: 7hr 45min-15hr): Goa (1 daily; 30hr): Gwalior (17-22 daily: 4hr 15min-7hr); Indore (4-6 daily;5hr-8hr 15 min): Jabalpur (3-4 daily; 6-7hr); Jalgaon (2-3 daily; 7-9hr); Jhansi (22-26 daily: 3hr-5hr 40min); Manmad (lor Aurangabad; 7-10 daily; 9br-11hr30min); Mumbai (4 daily 14hr 55min-18hr); Nagpur (12-15 daily; 5hr 30min-9hr 30min); Pune (2-3 daily; 16-17hr|: Sanchi (2 daily; 45-55min): Ujjain (4-6 daily; 3hr-5hr|; Vidisha (3-4 daily; 40-50min).

Gwalior to: Agra (23-26 daily; 1 hr 10min-2hr 20mm); Bhopal (19-24 daily; 3hr 40min-7hr); Calcutta (4 weekly; 22hr 30min-24hr 30min); Chennai (2-1 daily; 28-40hr]; Delhi (21-25 daily; 3hf 50min-9hr); Goa (1 daily; 36hr 35min); Indore (Idaily; 13hr); Jabalpur (2 daily; 11 hr 50min-13hr 20mm); Jalgaon (2 daily; 12hr 30min-16hr 30min): Jhansi (22-26 daily; 1hr-2hr 45min); Mumbai (5-6 daily; 20hr-25hr); Pune (2-3 daily: 21-24hr): Puri (1 daily; 39hr); Satna (1-2 daily; 10hr); Ujjain (1-2 daily; 13hr]; Vidisha (5-6 daily; 4hr 30min-6hr).

Indore to: Agra (1-2 daily; 14hr 30min-16hr]; Ajmer (2 daily; 13hr 30min-16hr); Bhopal (2-4 daily; 4hr 45min-8hr); Calcutta (3 weekly; 34hr); Chennai (Mon only; 34hr); Chittaurgarh (2 daily; 7hr 30min-8hr 35min); Delhi (2-3 daily; 10nr-18hr 20min); Gwalior (1-2 daily; 12hr 40min-13hr 15min); Jabalpur (1 daily; 15hr 35min); Jaipur (1-2 daify; 12-16hr); Jhansi (1 daily; 11 min); Kota (1-2 daily; 6hr 30min-7hr 40min); Mumbai (1 daily; 15hr); Ujjain (4-5 daily; 1hr30min-2hr).

Jabalpur to: Bhopal (2-3 daily; 6hr 30min-7hr 20min); Calcutta (1 daily; 23-25hr); Chennai (1-2 daily; 23hr 45min-32hr); Delhi (2 daily; 15hr 40min-19hr 40min|; Gwalior (2 daily; 10—13hr); Indore (1 daily; 15hr 45min); Jhansi (2 daily; 8hr 50min-11hr); Mumbai (3-5 daily; 18-20hr); Patna (2-4 daily; 12hr 30min-16hr 30min); Satna (3-4 daily: 3hrj; Ujjain (1 daily; 13hr); Varanasi (4-7 daily; 8hr-11hr45min).

Ujjain to: Ahmedabad (1-2 daily; 9-11 hr); Agra (2-3 daily; 12hr 10min-16hr); Bhopal (5-6 daily; 3hr-6hr 15min|; Calcutta (3 weekly; 32hr); Chennai (6 weekly; 32hr 30min-33hr 30min); Delhi (2-3 daily; 12hr-21hr30min]; Gwalior (1-2 daily; 10hr 40min); Indore (4-6 daily; 1hr 50min-2hr 30min); Jabalpur (1-2 daily; 10hr 40min-13hr); Jaipur (6 weekly; 8hr 45min-10hr); Jhansi (2-4 daily; 9-1 Ohr); Nagpur (4 weekly: 12hr); Varanasi (3 weekly; 31 hr 35min).

Buses

Bhopal to: Indore (every 15min; 5-6hr); Jabalpur (3daily;8-10hr); Nagpur (5 daily; 10—11 hr); Pachmarhi (4 daily, 5-6hr): Sanchi (hourly; 1hr 30min-Zhr): Ujjain (hourly; 5-6hr); Vidisha (hourly: 2hr-2hr 30min).

Gwalior to: Agra (hourly; 2-3hr); Datia (every 30min; ihr 40min-2hr); Delhi (4 daily; 8hr); Jhansi (every 30min; 3hr); Khajuraho (4 daily; 7-9hr); Shivpuri (every 30min; 2hr-2hr 30): Ujjain (3 daily: 12hr).

Indore to: Agra (1 daily: 16hr); Aurangabad (3 daily; 14hr); Bhopal (hourly; 5-6hr); Chittaurgarh (1 daily; lOhr); Dhar (every 30min; 2-3hr); Jaipur (3 nightly; 15hr]; Kota (4 daily; 8-9hr); Mandu (3 daily; 4hr); Mumbai (2 daily; 20hr); Nagpur (1 daily; 14hr); Omkareshwar (3 daily; 4-6hr); Udaipur (6 daily: 15tir|; Ujjain (every 15min; 1hr 30min-2hr).

Jabalpur to: Khajuraho (5 daily; 7-9hr); Kisli (for Kanha; 2 daily; 5-7hr|; Mandla (hourly; 3hr); Murwara (tor Bandhavgarh; every 30min; 2hr); Nagpur (12 daily; 7hr); Satna (6-8 daily; 8hr). Khajuraho to: Agra (1 daily; 8hr-13hr); Bhopal (2 daily; 10hr); Gwalior (1 daily; 6hr-9hr); Jhansi (7 daily; 4-6hr); Mahoba (5 daily; 3hr); Panna (4 daily; 1hr); Satna (5 daily; 4hr]; Varanasi (1 nightly; 16-18hr)

Ujjain to: Agra (2 daily; 15hr); Delhi (1 daily; 21hr); Dhar (5 daily; 4hr); Gwalior (2 daily; 12hr); Kota (10 daily; 8hr); Maheshwar (4 daily; 5hr); Omkareshwar (3 daily; 6-7hr).

Flights

Bhopal to: Delhi (1 daily; Ihr 10min-2hr); Gwalior(2 weekly; 45min); Indore (1 daily; 30min);Mumbai (1 daily; 2hr5min).

Gwalior to: Bhopal (2 weekly; 45min); Delhi (5weekly; 45min-1hr 5min); Indore (2 weekly; 1hr45min); Jabalpur (3 weekly; 1 hr 25min]; Mumbai (2 weekly; 3hr 20min).

Indore to: Bhopal (1 daily; 30min); Delhi (1 daily;2hr 10min-3hr); Gwalior (2 weekly; 1hr 45min);Mumbai (1 daily; 1hr5min).

Jabalpur to: Delhi (3 weekly; 2hr 55min); Gwalior(3 weekly; Ihr 30min).

Khajuraho to: Agra (1 daily; 40min); Delhi (2 daily: 1hr 50min): Varanasi (2 daily; 40min).

Omkareshwar is connected by state bus to Khandwa (4 daily; 2hr 30min) and Indore (3 daily: 4—6hr).You can also get here by catching the Indore to Khandwa bus as far as Omkareshwar Road, a junction and chai stop on NH-3, from where a beaten-up local bus runs the remaining 15km. Omkareshwar Road is also the nearest railhead, but only slow passenger services stop here. Barhawa, on the north bank of the Narmada, is the closest main-line railway station.

The nearest bank with a foreign exchange counter is at Indore. A small post office on the mam street, however, offers reliable poste restante. The range of accommodation has expanded recently, with more lodges and the privilege of attached baths in some rooms. For those seeking the ascetic experience, the central dhammshalas in the mainland village, are cheap (Rs20-50), and offer close-hand experience of pilgrim culture. On the down side, dharamshala rooms tend to be windowless cells, with washing facilities limited to a standpipe in the yard (to encourage people to use the river) and communal toilets. One of the best is Jat Samaj, facing the river, to the right of the bridge on the main square - look for the rooftop figure on horseback. Another favourite is Ahiiya Bhai, tucked away behind the Vishnu temple off the road to Mamaleshwar temple and the ghats. This and its close neighbour, Tirole Kunbi Patet, have great views over the river to the Om island from their balconies and roof terraces. If these are full, try the massive Raja Pratap towering over the main square. It’s the only one with a sign in English, and is fine for a night’s stay.

If you can’t face a spell in a dharamshala, there are a few alternatives. The peaceful Yatrika Niwas, behind the bus stand, has spartan but clean rooms, some with bathrooms; the distance from the ghats reduces the impact of devotional music played there early each morning. Just ofTthe square before it joins the bridge a flight of stone steps leads to Maharajah Guest House (07280/71237; 0-0), a delightful family house shaded by bougainvillea with ten rooms, each with an attached bath. Quiet and cosy, it is a long-established bastion for chronic hippies searching for spirituality in comfort. Alternatively, directly opposite the Shn Onikar Mandhata Mandir, the new Hotel Ashwaria has simple, clean doubles (all non-a/c) and attached bathrooms, and a restaurant. Visitors with their own vehicle may also manage to talk their way into the large, pink, and very pukka Irrigation Project Guest House at the top of the hill, whose clean, comfortable rooms are normally reserved for visiting engineers.

Long-stay visitors and pilgrims tend to opt for cooking their own meals using stoves provided by the dharamshalas or bought at minimal cost in the bazaar, where you can also get basic provisions. The alternatives are the good, pure-veg restaurant at Hotel Ashwaria, which is a safe bet, or the cheap fiery, greasy, vegetarian dishes (no meat or eggs at this sacred spot) from the grungy chai stalls around the square. The best, which cooks dishes to order, is just by the bridge, or you could try the friendly Jay Ambe Bhojnalaya cafe by the bus stand. Don’t risk eating at the food stalls on the island.

Traditionally, the parikrama (circular tour) of Omkareshwar begins at the ghats below Shri Mandhata and proceeds clockwise around the island. The walk takes at least a couple of hours, so carry plenty of water if you plan to do the whole thing in one go.

The first section of the trail is a leisurely half-hour stroll from the footbridge to the pebble-strewn western tip of the island, where you’ll find a small chai stall and a couple of insignificant shrines. The Trivendi Sangam, or “Three-rivers Confluence", is an especially propitious bathing place, where the Narmada forks as it merges with the Kaven. From here, the path climbs above the fringe of fine white sand lining the northern shore until it reaches level ground. The ruins of the Gaudi Somnath temple stand in the middle of the plateau, surrounded by a sizeable collection of sculpture mounted on concrete plinths. The sanctuary bouses a colossal shivalingam, attended by an equally huge Nandi bull. At this point, drop down a steep flight of steps to the village, or continue east towards the old fortified town that crowned the top of the island before it was ransacked by Muslims in the medieval era.

Numerous chunks of temple sculpture, lying discarded among the rubble, include a couple of finely-carved gods and goddesses, used for shade by families of black-faced langur monkeys.

After scaling the sides of a gully, the trail leads under the large ornamental archway of the Surajkund Gate, flanked by three-metre figures of Arjun and Bheema, two of the illustrious Pandava brothers. The tenth-century Siddhesvara temple stands five-minutes’ walk away to the south, on a patch of flat ground overlooking the river. Raised on a large plinth decorated with rampaging elephants, it has some fine apsatas, or female fertility figures, carved over its southern doorway, and a donatory Sanskrit inscription.

Of the two possible routes back to the village, one takes you along the top of the plateau before dropping sharply down, via another ruined temple and the “Maharaja’s palace, to the Shri Mandhata temple. The other follows a flight sceps to the river-bank, and then heads past a group of sadhus’ caves to the main ghats.

East of the main river crossing of Barhawa, the Narmada dips southwards, sweeps north again to form a wide bend, and then forks around a two-kilo-metre-long wedge-shaped outcrop of sandstone. Seen from above, the island, cut by several deep ravines, bears an uncanny resemblance to the “Om” symbol. This, coupled with the presence on its sheer south-facing side of a revered shivalingam, has made OMKARESHWAR. 77km south of lndore, one of the most sacred Hindu sites in central India.

Since ancient times, pilgrims have flocked here for darshan and a holy dip i11 the river. In recent years, it has also become one of the “in” places on the freak circuit, with long-stay Westerners vying with the sadhus in the dreadlocks and, chillum-smoking stakes. Still, if you can stomach all that, it can be an atmospheric diversion, with ruined temples, wayside shrines, bathing places and caves .no together by an old paved pilgrims’ trail.

From the bus stand at the bottom of the village on the mainland, Omkareshwar’s only street runs 400m uphill to a ramshackle square, where you’ll find most of the dlumunshdlas and chai shops, and a handful of stalls hawking lurid puja paraphernalia (including the excellent stylized maps taken home by pilgrims as souvenirs of their visits). To get to the island itself, cross the high concrete footbridge or take one of the flat-bottomed ferries that shuttle between the gluts crouched at the foot of the river gorge. Once across, you’re soon swallowed up by the crowded narrow lane leading to the main temple.

The prominent white shikham that now soars above the Shri Omkar Mandhata Mandir is a relatively new addition to the dense cluster of buildings on the south side of the island. Below it, the ornate pillars in the assembly hall, or mandapa, are more representative of the shrine’s great antiquity. Myths relating to the origins of the deity in the low-ceilinged sanctum date back to the second century BC. Another of India’s twelve jyotrilinga ("iinga of light"), it is said by Hindus to have emerged spontaneously from the earth after a struggle between Brahma.Vishnu and Shiva.

Accommodation is limited to the Ahilya Trust Guest House, a charitable institution near the palace, and the handful of rudimentary dharamslialas around the small square behind the ghats. This, in part, explains why many visitors prefer to visit as a day-trip. All roads to Maheshwar are in a terrible state, so allow extra time for pothole negotiation if you are in a private car - the journey from Mandu can take up to four hours, and from lndore, ar least three. There is a shady car park in the fort area (Rs10)Just near the entrance to the museum. Buses also run from Dhar (every 20min; 2hr). Buses from lndore are fairly trcquent, taking three and a half hours, with a change at the market town of Dhamnod, 76km southwest of lndore on the NH-3.The nearest railhead is at Barwaha, 39km west.

Places to eat are thin on the ground, as the majority of visitors to the town are pilgrims who cook their own food. Try a vegetarian meal in one of the dhabas on the square if your digestive system is up to it.

Overlooking the north bank of the mighty River Narmada, 91km southwest of Indore. MAHESHWAR has been identified as the site of King Kartvirajun’s ancient capital. Mahishmati, a city mentioned in both the Mahabharata and Ramayana. In the eighteenth century, Maharam Ahilya Bhai built a palace and several temples here, giving the town a new lease of life. Today, it’s a prominent port of call on the Narmada Hindu pilgrimage circuit, but well off the region’s tourist trail.

The waterfront ghats that line the river below an old sandstone palace, however, make a quintessentially Indian spectacle. Parties of yatris take holy dips, drying their clothes in the breeze blowing off the river, while pujaris and groups of sadhus sit around murmuring prayers under raffia sunshades. It you are not pushed tor time, you could enjoy a fifteen-minute ferry trip across the river to the hamlet of Navdatoli on the far bank, where archeologists have uncovered evidence of settlement dating from the Lower Paleolithic era not that there’s much to see when you get there.

Once you’ve had a look at the whitewashed shrines and the sati stones dor ted around the ghats, head for die flight of steps leading under the ornate sand stone facade of the palace to a raised courtyard, where you’ll find a pair of eighteenth-century temples. The larger of the two, the Ahilya Bhai Mandir, has an overhanging balcony wrapped around its rower with a great-bird’s eye view over the waterfront.

The palace and fort complex itself, further up the steps, houses the workshops of the Rewa Society, established by the maharani 250 years ago to promote the local handloom industry. Maheshwati saris are famous all over India for their distinctive patterns and superior quality; check out the designs for yourself by visiting the weavers’ workshops (Mon-Fn 10am-5pm), which are sponsored by a German aid project. Though descendants of the old ruling family still occupy parts of the building, a couple of rooms around the entrance courtyard have been given over to a small museum (leave your shoes at the entrance). Exhibits include a life-size effigy of the devout Ahilya Bhai (shown seated on her throne, or mjgadt), a couple of moth-eaten palladins, old photographs of the Holkar dynasty, and the shrine from which Maheshwar’s annual Dussehra festival begins.

Ujjain suffers from a dearth of decent places to eat. Most visitors either stick to their hotel restaurant, or else chance a plate of veg curry, rice and chapalis in one of the cheap dhabas opposite the railway station.

Ashnoi, University Road. Ujjain’s newest and nicest place to eat, with lots of plastic flora, wicker chairs and a/c; the moderately priced menu is excellent pure vegetarian, with a few Chinese dishes thrown in for good measure.

Chanakya. Subhash Marg. The best of several no-frills restaurants opposite the station. Spicy, inexpensive veg food, and chilled beer. The popular Ankur next door offers more of the same. Nauratan, Shipra Hotel, University Road. Typical MPTDC restaurant offering tasty veg, Mughlai, tan-doori and Chinese dishes, plus some Western options (even fish and chips) and a wide choice of beers and spirits.

New Raj Kumar, 20 Bhaktawar Ganj. Dushera Maidan. Low-priced and unpretentious pure-veg joint, tucked away down a suburban backstreet near Surana Palace.

White House, Surana Palace, 23 GDC Rd. Wide range of carefully prepared Indian and Chinese vegetarian dishes at moderate prices, served indoors or on the lawn. There’s also a fast-food outlet on the premises with pizza, veggie-burgers and ice cream.

In addition to being a major religious centre, Ujjain was the birthplace of mathematical astronomy in India, research into the motion of the stars and planets having been carried out here since the time of Ashok. Later, Hindu astronomers fixed both the first meridian of longitude and the Tropic of Cancer here - the reason why Raja jai Singh of Jaipur, governor of Malwa under the Moghul emperor Mohammad Shah, chose it as the site for another of his surreal open-air observatories. Built in 1725, the Vedha Shala (daily mnrise-sunset; free) lies 1km southwest of the railway station, overlooking a bend in the River Shipra. The complex is nowhere near as large as its more famous cousins in Delhi and Jaipur, the Janta Mantars, but remains in excellent condition with very informative guides (their service is free) and labelling. Local astronomers continue to use its five instruments, or yanfras, to formulate ephemerides (charts predicting the positions of the planets), which you can buy at the site.

Standing at the end of a chaotic market square, in the heart of the bazaar, the picturesque Gopal Mandir was erected by one of the Scindia ranis in the early nineteenth century. With its distinctive blend of Moghul domes, Moorish arches and lofty Hindu sanctuary tower, the temple makes a fine example of late Maratha architecture. Inside, the sanctum’s silver-plated doors were placed here by Mahaji Scindia, who rescued them from Lahore after they had been carried off by Muslim looters. The shrine room itself, lined with marble, silver and Mother-of-pearl, contains icons of the presiding deity, Gopal (Ganesh), together with his parents, Shiva and Parvati.

Ujjain’s chief landmark, the Mahakaleshwar Mandir, crowns a rise above the river, and is the logical place to start a tour of the town. Its gigantic saffron-painted sanctuary tower, a modern replacement for the one destroyed by Iltutmish in 1234, soars high above a complex of marble courtyards, water tanks and fountains, advertising the presence below of one of India’s most powerful shivalingams.

From the Mahakaleshwar Mandir, head west down the hill past the Rudra Sagar tank to another auspicious temple. Hindu mythology identifies the Harsiddhi Mandir as the spot where Parvati’s elbow fell to earth while Shiva was carrying her burning body from the sad pyre. The temple has been a centre of Devi worship ever since. Its main shrine, erected by the Marathas in the eighteenth century, houses (from left to right) images of Mahalakshmi (the goddess of wealth), Annapurna (an incarnation of Durga), and Saraswati (the goddess of wisdom).

Housed in a claustrophobic subterranean chamber, the lingam is mounted on a solid silver base and piled high with floral offerings left by a constant stream of worshippers. All around the sanctum, devotees prostrate themselves before the lingam, and the air is thick with incense and the hum of chanting. The litigant is one of India’s twelve jyotrilingam -"lingam of light"- whose essential energy, or shakti, derives from the earth, rather than from the rituals performed around it, and is considered particularly potent, especially byTantric followers, due to its unusual south-facing position. A narrow passage leads out of the sanctum to an adjacent courtyard, where several more modern accessory shrines are dedicated to Shiva’s consort, Parvati, and their two sons, Ganesh and Kartikeya.