India Travel

India is on the other side of the planet from North America. If you live on the East Coast it’s somewhat shorter to go via Europe, and from the West Coast it’s shorter via the Pacific, but either way it’s a long haul, involving one or more intermediate stops, and you’ll arrive fresher and less jet-lagged if you can manage to fit in a few days’ layover somewhere en route.

Most North American travellers arrive at either Delhi or Mumbai (Bombay), India’s busiest - and, in general, cheapest - air gateways. Either one makes a good starting/ending point for a tour of the whole country or of the popular north and west. You can also get flights from North America to Chennai (Madras), the main port of entry for the south, to Calcutta in the east, and to Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) in the far south.

There are no nonstop flights to India from North America, but Air India has direct flights from New York and Chicago to Mumbai, via London, and Air Canada has a direct flight from Vancouver to Delhi via London.

Many more airlines offer services to India from North America with a change of planes either in Asia or Europe. Your choice of airline is likely to be limited by whether you fly from the east or the west (with the exception of the above-mentioned Vancouver-Delhi direct flight), with a variety of Asian airlines making the trip from the West Coast, and several European and Middle Eastern carriers doing the trip from the Midwest and the East Coast (for more details see p. 18).

Air fares from North America to India are highest from the beginning of June to late August. They drop during the “shoulder” seasons (Sept to early Dec and the last half of May), but you’ll get the best deals during low season (mid-Dec to mid-May, excluding Christmas). Direct flights are no more expensive than those where you’ll have to change planes, but flying on weekends ordinarily adds about $100 to the round-trip fare; price ranges quoted in the sections below assume midweek travel.

If India is only one stop on a longer journey, you might want to consider buying a round-the-world ticket. Some travel agents can sell you an “off-the-shelf” RTW ticket, touching down in about half a dozen cities (Delhi is on most itineraries); tailor-made RTW tickets usually work out more expensive. Figure on paying at least $1500 for a regular RTW ticket including India and Europe. A more extensive RTW ticket will cost up to $3000.

A large number of operators run package holidays to India, covering such activities as trekking and safaris as well as sightseeing and sunbathing. Specialist minority-interest tours range from steam locomotives and war history to religion and food. Even if you book a general sightseeing tour, most firms have a good range of options, usually including the “Golden Triangle” of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur; a tour of Rajasthan; or a southern tour taking in Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai and Kochi. Some also offer wildlife tours; the Palace on Wheels train journey; take in Nepal or Bhutan; or have various combinations of all these. In addition, many companies will arrange tailor-made tours, and can help you plan your own itinerary.

Of course, any package holiday is a lot easier than going under your own steam, particularly if you only have a short time and don’t want to use it up on making your own travel bookings. On the other hand, a typical sightseeing tour can rather isolate you from the country, shutting you off in air-conditioned hotels and buses. Specialist trips such as trekking and tailor-made tours will work out rather expensive, compared to what you’d pay if you organized everything independently, but they do cut out a lot of hassle. However, Goa beach holidays, and packages lo Kovalam in Kerala, particularly with charter operators, can work out cheaper than a normal flight, and usually offer tour options as extras. One-week packages to Goa including flights and accommodation, for example, are available for around £450 with discounts off season.

Package tour operators to India available through high-street travel agents include the largest tour operator to India, Kuoni Travel (01306/742888), Hayes and Jarvis (020/8748 5050) and the two Kerala and Goa specialists, Manos (020/7216 8070) and Inspirations.

Trains

Haridwar to: Calcutta (1 daily; 33hr); Dehra Dun (8 daily; 2hr); Delhi (4 daily: 4hr 30min-8hr); Mumbai (1 daily; 40hr); Katfigodam (3 daily: 4lir 30min-8hr); Rishikesh (2 daily; 30min).

Kathgodam (railhead 3hr from Naimtal) to: Calcutta (1 daily; 4Dhr); Delhi (2 daily: 8hrl.

Buses

Almora to: Nainital (4 daily; 3hr); Delhi (2 daily;11hr).

Dehra Dun to: Delhi (6 daily; 8hr); Kullu/Manali (1daily; 14hr): Mussoorie (every 30min; 1hr): Nainital(1 daily; 11hr); Rishikesh (every 30min; Ihr 30mm)

Haridwar to: Dehra Dun (hourly: 1hr 15min); Delhi (4-6 daily; 5-6hr); Rishikesh (20 daily; 30min).

Mussoorie to: Dehra Dun (every 30min; 1hr); Delhi (2 daily; 9hr); Haridwar (every 30min; 3hr); Rishikesh (every 30min; 4hr): Uttarkashi (2 daily; 7hr).

Nainital to: Almora (4 daily: 3hr); Dehra Dun (1 daily: 10hr 30min); Delhi (4 daily; 8hr); Kausani (4 daily; 5hr); Ramnagar (4 daily; 3hr 30min): Ranlkhet (4 daily; 3hr).

Rishikesh to: Haridwar (every 30min; 1 rtr); Dehra Dun (every 30mm; 1 hr 30mln): Nainital (1 daily; 9hr); Hanumanchatti forYamunotri (4 daily; 10hr).

The sprawling village of MUNSIYARI stands at the threshold of the inner Himalayas. 154km north of Pithoragarh, looking down on the Gori River gorge and deep valleys branching up into the high mountains. Vantage spots throughout the area ofter breathtaking views of the five almost-symmetrical Panchuli Peaks, which owe their name - the “five cooking pots” - to their plumes of wind-blown snow. These are notorious for their bad weather, but on clear days at Munsiyari you feel you could almost reach out and touch them.

Among spectacular local high-mountain walks, which are being increasing^ derestricted, is the gentle 1 1km trail up to the Kalika Pass (2700m), where a small Shakti temple stands amid dark pines. More difficult trails lead, via the small village of Matkot. 12km away, to the glaciers in the Panchuli group, and 30km away to the large alpine meadows of Chiplakot Bugyal, dotted with tiny lakes, as well as up to the Milam Glacier and the johar valley (see below).

Many of the local people are Bhotias of Tibetan stock, who have over the ages absorbed Indian religious and cultural practices, though their origins can be seen in their weaving of carpets, adorned with the ubiquitous dragon motif, and in cultural practices such as animal sacrifice - a festive and a bloody picnic to all and sundry. Carpets are sold in Munsiyari by Pratpsing Pangtey, an elderly gentleman who runs a small carpet factory just below the bus stand.

Munsiyari is at the end of the road, so few buses come this way and those that do are very basic; there are daily departures to Pithoragarh (5.30am; 8hr) and Almora (5am; 11hr). Most people arrive here by shared Jeep: you’ll have to change at Thali for the last four hours of the journey. Along with KMVN’s brand new Tourist Lodge there are a couple of simple lodges near the bus stand and the PWF) Bungalow has four very comfortable suites with hot water geysers. Most foreigners stay at the pleasant Martolia Lodge, a simple home stay 2km from the bus stand with excellent food. Unfortunately it is run by an old goat who tries to charm as much money as he can out of jus guests. Payment is “as you like"; Rs200 per day for meals and a room is reasonable.

A handful of trekking agencies are cropping up around the’bazaar including Panchuli Trekking ( 059612/262554), while Prem Ram, of Gram Bunga, Tala. Nayabasti, is a recommended guide who can organize treks including j-ooks and porters, from around Rsl50 per head per day.

PITHORAGARH, the headquarters of the easternmost district of Kumaon, in the beautiful sprawling Sore valley, IH8km northeast of Nainital, is a busy administrative and market town which acts as a gateway to the mountains. While the town itself is not particularly attractive and only worth stopping at to stock up on provisions for expeditions, the fringes remain charming with terraced cultivation at an altitude of around 1650m offering glimpses of Panchuli and the remote mountains of western Nepal.

Above Pithoragarh, in the pine-wooded slopes of the Leprosy Mission at Chandag 7km north, a large cross overlooks the valley, commanding views of the Saipal and Api massifs in western Nepal. It makes a pleasant walk up from the Tourist Bungalow, or you can take local buses en route for Bans.

BAIJNATH is halfway between Kausani. 20km southeast, and Gwaldam to the west. The road (served by occasional buses) drops down to a broad valley and to eleventh-century stone temples, standing at a bend in a beautiful river. This was once an important town of the Katyurs, who ruled much of Garhwal and Kumaon; now it’s more like a park. Unusually, the main temple is devoted to Parvati, the consort of Shiva, rather than Shiva himself; its 1.5-metre image of the goddess is one of the few in the complex to have withstood the ravages of time. The only amenities are KMVN’s modern Tourist Rest Home and a couple of simple cafes.

BAGESHWAR, nestled in a steamy valley 90km north of Almora, is one of Kumaon s most important pilgrimage towns. The lush Gomti River valley around is lovely, so it’s .1 shame the town is a dump. Its market is a good place to stock, up on provisions and it’s used by trek groups as the base for the trek to Pindari - although they’d be better off in the nicer villages of Song or Loharkhet. Most foreigners stay at the- large, ugly, KMVN Tourist Bungalow, 2km south of the bus station across a bridge, though there are also basic dharamshalas and dhabas around the temple.

The prices indicated are for the low season, but go up by fifty percent in high season (April 15-June 15 & Oct 1-Nov 15). Rooms with views are much more expensive than those without.

Anashakti Ashram, above the Mall on Snow View Road. Guests prepared to observe ashram rules, such as not smoking, are welcome to stay at Gandhi’s pleasant but spartan former ashram. A great place to watch the mountains blush and fade at sunset. No generator.

KMVN Tourist Bungalow, 05962/45006. The usual tourist lodge atmosphere but it is at least secluded, and surrounded by pine forests.

Himalaya Mount View, 05962/45033. In the valley below the ridge, this place is very quiet and rather pleasant, with chunky but elegant wooden furnishings and tile floors. Little English is spoken. Follow the winding main road out of town for about three hundred metres.

Hotel Uttarkhand, below the Hill Queen. Precariously perched on the side of the hill, with simple doubles and a great roof terrace. The new second-storey rooms with satellite TV and bidet toilets are the best value. Recommended.

Krisdhna, 05962/45008. A huge place that fails short of its aspirations to luxury, but good views ol the snows through the telescope in the garden and a friendly manager.

Kausani is well connected by bus to Almora and Ranikhet, and Bageshwar and Gwaldam further north. The tourist scene is growing and a number of new hotels and restaurants have sprung up in recent years to cater for the very seasonal demand. The fanciest place to eat is the Hill Queen, a mid-priced but very good-value multi-cuisine restaurant below the Anashakti Ashram. The owner also serves as the unofficial tourist officer and is a mine of information about the area. The new Ashok and Sunrise restaurants nearby serve inexpensive multi-cuisine dishes.

Spreading from east to west along a narrow pine-covered ridge, 52km northwest of Almora, the village of KAUSANI boasts a spectacular Himalayan panorama and as a result has become a popular resort. It’s a simple day-trip from Almora, though as the peaks - Nanda Choti, Trisul, Nanda Devi and Panchol - are at their best at dawn and dusk, its worth staying overnight.There are several ashrams, including one that once housed Mahatma Gandhi, who walked here in 1929, thirty years before the road came through. Gandhi-ism continues to be a major influence in these hills and his symbol of self-reliance, the spinning wheel, is still used in homes in the area.There are numerous possibilities for short day-hikes in the woods and valleys around Kausani, as well as longer excursions to the important pilgrimage sues of Baijnath and Bageshwar.

Cafes and restaurants are strung along the Mall, especially around the bazaar area at its northern end. There should be something for everybody. Locally grown and prepared Kumabri rice and black dhal are particularly delicious. Hotels such as the Savoy can produce a feast of Kumaoni dishes if given plenty of advance warning.

Bansal Expresso Bar, Lala Bazaar. An Italian-style cafe, complete with marble-topped tables. Serves up the best coffee, chai and shakes in town; freshly made snacks are also available.

Dolma, Kalimath, 5km west of the town. A cafe run by Tibetans that shows the locals how it’s done. Located at a beauty spot with a view of the Himalayas. Momos, beer and outdoor seating.

Glory, near Shikhar, the Mall. Multi-cuisine cafe-cum-restaurant, strong on north Indian cooking.

Madras Cafe, opposite the Glory, the Mall. The name is misleading, as the emphasis is on good-value north Indian food. Tasty coffee, too.

Soni Dhaba, the Mall bus stand. Excellent. Sikh-run tihaba which can get crowded.

Swagat, opposite the Shikhar, the Mall. Large cafe, with dosas and other snacks as well as meals.