India Travel
Central Bihar
South of the Ganges and north of the hills of the Chotanagpur plateau. Central Bihar contains some of north India’s most important Buddhist sites. The greatest shrine of all, a focus for Buddhists from around the world, is the Bodhi Tree at Bodhgaya where the Buddha gained enlightenment.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
North Bihar
The one area of Bihar capable of growing reliable crops is the fertile agricultural belt along the Himalayan foothills north of the Ganges. Other than passing through en route to Nepal via the large town of Muzaffarpur. most visitors only pause to explore the remains of the abandoned Buddhist city of Vaishali. although the region also holds a handful of shrines and temple towns associated with the Ramayana.
Accommodation in Rajgir
Ajatshatru. near the hot springs. A basic place run by Bihar Tourism, where it costs Rs. 100 tostay in a dorm. Anand, a couple of hundred metres up trie road opposite the bus station, Nice terrace and cosmic blue paint, Centaur Hokke. 4km from the bus station and 2km from Kund market, at the end of a dusty road leading from the hot springs, An ugly concrete exterior plays host to an extraordinary Japanese restaurant and comfortable rooms (see box). Worth a visit just to try the seaweed sandwiches. Gautam Vihar, 300m from there bus station on the road to Nalanda.
Bihar and Jharkhand : Overview
BIHAR and JHARKHAND occupy the flat eastern Ganges basin, south of Nepal between Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal. Now desperately poor and troubled, the region's glory days came early, when this was the land of the Buddha - born in Lumbini in Nepal, he spent much of his life wandering through the kingdoms of the Ganges. In his quest for truth during the sixth century BC, Prince Gautama visited Vaishali and Rajgir. before moving on to Bodhgaya and gaining enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree. Only during the nineteenth century was it demonstrated that the major events of the Buddha's life
Jasidih and Deogarh
JASIDIH, a small industrial town 220km southeast of Patna on the main line to Calcutta, has started to attract travellers due to the international popularity of the ascetic Swarni Satyananda and his Rikhya Yoga Ashram, 12km from the centre. Note, however, that the ashram is open to the public only a few select days every year; visitors are expected to donate clothing and medicine. Yoga courses are run b his disciple Niranjan within the walls of the old fort at Monghyr, 60km to the north (nearest train station, Jamalpur) and 180km east of Patna. For information, write to Bihar Yoga
Reaching Patna
Patna has three stations but all main-line train services arrive at Patna Junction, in the west of the city. Fraser Road (now Mazharul-Raq Path), immediately north of the station, is the main drag, with as much glamour as the state can muster - though even here you'll see rag pickers living on the pavement. Patna's airport lies 5km to the west, linked to town by taxis and indian Airlines buses. A few hundred meters west of the station, the chaotic Harding Park bus stand runs services to and from Gaya, Varanasi, and the Nepal border at Raxaul (gate 6). North
Details of Eastern UP
Flowing beyond Allahabad across the plains of EASTERN UP, the Ganges turns sharply north at Chunar and traces a great arc through ancient Varanasi. Even before the Hindus declared this to be the most sacred spot on earth, it stood at the centre of die Buddhist universe, linked by trading routes from Rajgir in Bihar to Mathura near Delhi. It was on the outskirts of Varanasi, at the deer park at Sarnath, that the Buddha delivered his first sermon. North ofVaranasi, the much-travelled road to Nepal passes through the large administrative town of Gorakhpur, not far from Kushinagar, where the
Bodhgaya Accommodation: hotels
Buddha International 3 0631/400506- In the south of town near the Indosan Japanese temple, With an impressive lobby and nice lawn it's pleas-art but pricey. Buddha Vihar, Bihar Tourist Complex t 0631/400445. Cheap three- four- and six-bed dorm accommodation Embassy, opposite the Nepalese temple S 0631/400711. Reasonable rooms and rooftop views, but a little expensive for what you get. ITDC Bodhgaya Ashok, near the museum -i~ 0631/400700. Comfortable bungalow-type accommodation with a pleasant lawn, an upmarket restaurant and several in-house facilities including a travel desk.
Bodhgaya Practicalities
Buses connecting Bodhgaya and Gaya leave from outside Gaya train station and more frequently from the Kacheri bus and auto-rickshaw stand a couple of kilometres south of the station. Shared auto-rickshaws are quicker, even more frequent and cost just a little more. You'll need to travel back to Gaya to pick up most onward services from Bodhgaya, although two buses a day run directly to Patna departing from the Bihar Tourism Complex at 7am and 2pm, and a direct bus also leaves for Varanasi at 5am. All buses turn round on the main road north, by the Burmese Vihar and 600m
Mulagandha Kuti Vihara and modern sites in Sarnath at Uttar Pradesh
To the east of the Dhamekh Stupa, the lofty church-iike Mulagandha Kuti Vihara (free) was built in 1931 with donations from the international Buddhist community. Run bv the Mahabodhi Societv, it drew devotees from all over the world to witness its consecration, and has become one of Sarnath's greatest attractions for pilgrims and tourists alike. The entrance foyer is dominated by a huge bell - a gift from Japan - and the interior houses a gilded reproduction of the museums famous image of the Buddha, surrounded by fresco-covered walls depicting scenes from his life. A little way east, shielded by a
Around Bodhgaya : Mahakala Caves
The Mahakala (or Dungeshwan) Caves, in remote, almost desert-like surroundings on the far side of the Phalgu 18km northeast of Bodhgaya, are where the Buddha did the severe penance that resulted in the familiar image ot him as a skeletal, emaciated figure. After years of extreme self-denial at Mahakala, he realized its futility and walked down to Bodhgaya, where he received rice as a gift. A short time later, after a final battle with temptation, he achieved nirvana under the Bodhi Tree. A short climb from the base of the impressive dirt leads to a Tibetan monastery and the small
Detials of Madhya Pradesh
Hot, dusty MADHYA PRADESH is a vast landlocked expanse of scrub-covered hills, sun-parched plains and dense tree cover that accounts for one third of India's forests. Stretching from beyond the headwaters of the mighty River Narmada, at the borders of Orissa and Bihar, to the fringes of the Western Ghats, it's a transitional zone between (fre Gangetic lowlands in the north and the high dry Deccan plateau to the south. '. Despite its diverse array of exceptional attractions, ranging from ancient itemples and hilltop forts to superb, isolated wildlife reserves, Madhya Pradesh receives only a fraction of the tourist traffic that
Patna Excursion
Patna makes a popular base for exploring Nalanda and Rajgir, as well as Vaishali to the north, but there are also places of interest closer at hand. The fabulous dargah - Sufi mausoleum - at Muner, on the road to Varanasi, is the prime attraction, but if you're in the area between early November and early December, don't miss the Sonepur Mela, an enormous month-long cattle fair held across the huge Gandhi Bridge, 25km north of Patna at the confluence of the Gandak and Ganges. Cattle, elephants, camels, parakeets and other animals are brought for sale, pilgrims combine business with
About Calcutta and West Bengal
Unique among Indian stares in stretching all the way from the Himalayas to the sea, WEST BENGAL is nonetheless explored in depth by few travellers. That may have something to do with the exaggerated reputation of its capital, CALCUTTA, which is actually a sophisticated and friendly city that belies its popular image as poverty-stricken and chaotic. Certainly the rest of Bengal holds an extraordinary assortment of landscapes and cultures, ranging from the dramatic hill station of Darjeeling, within sight of some of the highest mountains in the world, to the vast mangrove swamps of the Sunderbans, prowled by man-eating Royal
Information of Varanasi in Eastern UP
The main UPTDC tourist office is at their Tourist Bungalow on Parade Komi) though their tourist information counter inside the railway station is far more efficient and on the ball - the boss, Uma Shankar, seems to regard the protection of tourists as a personal crusade. Both book accommodation and provide free maps. The shabby Bihar Government Tourist Office at Englishia Market, Slier Shah Suri Marg. Cantonment, is useful if you're heading east towards the Buddhist centres. The Government of India Tourist Office languishes in the leafy suburbs of the Cantonment, a long way from the main attractions of the old
The Punnathur Kotta Elephant Sanctuary Guruvayur in Kerala
When they are not involved in races and other arcane temple rituals, Guruvayur's tuskers hang out at the Punnathur Kotta Elephant Sanctuary (daily 9am—6pm; Rs5; Rs25 extra with camera), 4km north of town. Forty elephants, aged from 6 to 93, live here, munching for most of the day on specially imported piles of fodder and cared for by their three personal mahouts, who wash and scrub them several times a week in the sanctuary pond - a great photo opportunity. Avoid the bulls on heat - the mahouts will warn you which ones they arc - as they become aggressive
Ranchi and around
RANCHI, at the heart of the Chotanagpur plateau, is ugly and poor and it's hard to believe that it was once the summer capital of Bihar, full of tea-gardens. The only reason to come here is to visit one of its ashrams such as the extensive Yogoda Math Ashram. Several major trains - connecting with, among other places, Calcutta. Delhi Patna, Daltonganj, Dhanbad.Jasidih and Jamshedpur - either call at Ranchi station, near the southern end of the Main Road, or terminate at Hatia, 7km away. Indian Airlines has daily flights between Ranchi and Delhi, while there are twice-weekly flights (Tues &
Bodhgaya Accommodation : Monasteries
Bhutanese Monastery. Old guesthouse, next to the monastery, and full of character. Singles and family rooms. Burmese Monastery (Vihar), Gaya Road. Set in a pleasant garden, this is a long-time favourite with Westerners. It is very spartan, cramped but cheap, and the absence of fans and a/c and the prevalence of biting insects will test your Buddhist indifference to personal comfort. Daijokyo Temple, near the Giant Buddha Statue XG631/400747. Beautifully maintained Japanese Nichiren Buddhist hotel for pilgrims and tour groups; others are allowed to stay by discretion - telephone first. An excellent kitchen specializes in Japanese cuisine. Currently running
Reaching Nepal from Bihar
Travelers heading from Patna towards Nepal have to cross the border at Raxaul, six hours away by bus. If you want to break the journey at Muzaffarpur you'll find limited accommodation near the bus stand and in the town centre near the railway station. You can then continue to Raxaul by bus or train. RAXAUL itself is an unattractive, grubby town with limited amenities, infested with mosquitoes and flies, so you're better off staying at Birganj across the Nepal border. If you have to stay, the clean retiring rooms are the best bet, but guests have to have a rail ticket
Practicalities at Palamau (Betla) National Park
The official headquarters of the park, Daltonganj. 25km from Betla, are served by direct buses and a branch railway line from Ranchi. Five buses each morning and three each afternoon (first at 7.30am; last at 4.30pm) run from Daltonganj to Betla, which is 6km off the main Ranchi-Daltonganj road. If you're coming from Ranchi, you could try to change buses at the turn-off and get to Betla without going through Daltonganj.This is a fairly lawless corner of the state, so it's best to avoid night travel. Next to the Betla gates, the main park entrance, a small complex holds administration offices,
Patna and around
The capital of Bihar, PATNA. dates back to the sixth century BC, which makes it one of the oldest cities in India. Today, it's a nice enough place, but one which holds only the barest of indications of its former glory as the centre of the Magadhan and Mauryan empires.The sprawling metropolis hugs the south bank of the Ganges, stretching for around 15km in a shape that has changed little since Ajatasatru (491-459 BC) shifted the Magadhan capital here from Rajgir. The first Mauryan emperor, Chandragupta, established himself in what was then Pataliputra, in 321 BC, and pushed the limits of