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Chandernagore, Hooghly and Bandel in Calcutta

Around 35km north of Howrah, the former French outpost of CHANDERNAGORE still bears traces of its colonial masters, who left in 1949 and office dally ceded the town to India in 1952. Crumbling buildings along its grand riverside promenade, formerly the Quai Dupleix and now the Strand, include what was once the Hotel de Paris, while the Eglise du Sacre Coeur, set back from the river, houses an image of Joan of Arc. Nearby, the eighteenth-century mansion of the French administrator serves as the Institut de Chandernagore. with a library, a French-language school and an interesting museum of documents, antiques, art and sculpture.

The next significant community as you continue north from Chandernagore is the former Armenian township of Chinsurah. A kilometre beyond that, HOOGHLY was a major East India Company trading post. Packed with Islamic monuments, it was devastated in turn by the Moghuls and the Marathas before being retaken by Robert Give. Both Chandernagore and Hooghly lie on the busy suburban train network from Howrah.

Eight kilo metres out of Chandernagore, the grounds of the Church of Our Lady of the Bandel, one of eastern India’s oldest churches and still a major centre of Catholic pilgrimage, sweep down to the river. Consecrated by Portuguese Augustinian friars in 1599, it was destroyed by the Moghuls in 1640 but rebuilt in 1660. A cross marks the spot where an image known as Our Lady of Happy Voyages, which had been lost in the river during the siege, miraculously reappeared some years later. There is a large hall devoted to St Augustine, a grotto and a cloistered courtyard.

Trains from both Howrah and Sealdah pass within 2km of the church, stopping at Nainati, where cycle rickshaws are available.

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Around Calcutta in Calcutta

The River Hooghly served for centuries as a lifeline for foreign traders; north of Calcutta, its banks are dotted with the remains of tiny European settlements such as Serampore and Chandernagore. All these sites, together with the Hindu temples of Dakshineshwar. Belur Math and Kalna, and even the great Vaishnavite centres of Nabadip and Mayapur further north, can be taken in as day-trips on local trains from Calcutta's Sealdah and Howrah stations. Simple hotels are always available should you want to stay.

Along the Hooghly to the sea In Coastal Bengal

As the Hooghly bends south on its way to the sea, it becomes larger and larger; when it reaches the Bay of Bengal at Diamond Harbour, 50km south of Calcutta, it is very wide indeed. The harbour was used by the East India Company, and a ruined fort is said to date back to Portuguese pirates. The trip down here from the city, by bus or train from Sealdah station, is a popular day's excursion for Calcuttans, though it's also possible to stay the night at the Sagarika Tourist Lodge, which has some a/c rooms. Book through the tourist office

The beach resorts in Coastal Bengal

The popular seaside resort of DIGHA. 175km southwest of Calcutta and almost halfway to Pun in Orissa, with its immense silted hard beach, was originally conceived as a health sanatorium. Direct buses run from the Esplanade terminus in Calcutta; trains from Howrah station run to Kharagpur from where you can take a bus. Alternatively you can get here on a WB tourist bureau bus. If anything, the casuarina-lined beach at BAKKHALI, 80km south of Diamond Harbour on the east side of the Hooghly, is even harder than the one at Digha. However, it's much less developed and far more attractive, and

Coastal Bengal

The coast of West Bengal consists of two very distinct sections, on either side of the River Hooghly. To the east are the Sunderbans, one of the largest estuarine deltas in the world covering an area of 2500 square kilometres. Here you'll find the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve and the seaside resort of Bakkhali. On the west side of the Hooghly, an unbroken line of beaches goes all the way to Digha, the last resort before the coastline of Orissa begins.

Howrah and the River Hooghly

Although Howrah is technically a separate town, as the home of much of Calcutta's industry, as well as Howrah Station, it forms an integral part of the city. Until recently, antiquated Howrah Bridge was the only road link across the River Hooghly; since the opening of the tall and elegant Vidyasagar Setu, the second Hooghly bridge, a few years ago, the west bank of the river is changing rapidly. Vidyasagar Setu (also referred to as the New or Natun Bridge) provides easy access to Shibpur and the beautiful Botanical Gardens, and onwards southwest to the open highways towards Orissa. Across the

Calcutta The City

Calcutta's crumbling weather beaten buildings and anarchic streets can create an intimidating first impression. Given a little time and patience, however, the huge metropolis starts to resolve itself into a fascinating conglomerate of styles and influences with a variety of impressive skylines to match. The River Hooghly, which was until recently only spanned by the remarkable cantilever Howrah Bridge, is not all that prominent in me life of the city. Instead its heart is the green expanse of the Maidan, which attracts Calcuttans from all walks of life for recreation, sports, exhibitions and political rallies. At its southern end stands die

Calcutta The City

Calcutta's crumbling weather eaten buildings and anarchic streets can create an intimidating first impression. Given a little time and patience, however, the huge metropolis starts to resolve itself into a fascinating conglomerate of styles and influences with a variety of impressive skylines to match. The River Hooghly, which was until recently only spanned by the remarkable cantilever Howrah Bridge, is not all that prominent in me life of the city. Instead its heart is the green expanse of the Maidan, which attracts Calcuttans from all walks of life for recreation, sports, exhibitions and political rallies. At its southern end stands die

About Calcutta and West Bengal

Unique among Indian stares in stretching all the way from the Himalayas to the sea, WEST BENGAL is nonetheless explored in depth by few travellers. That may have something to do with the exaggerated reputation of its capital, CALCUTTA, which is actually a sophisticated and friendly city that belies its popular image as poverty-stricken and chaotic. Certainly the rest of Bengal holds an extraordinary assortment of landscapes and cultures, ranging from the dramatic hill station of Darjeeling, within sight of some of the highest mountains in the world, to the vast mangrove swamps of the Sunderbans, prowled by man-eating Royal

From Calcutta to Bangladesh

Calcutta is the main gateway to Bangladesh from India; you can reach Bangladesh by air, train or road. The Bangladesh Consulate is at 9 Circus Ave; visas must be obtained in advance. There are at least two flights daily from Calcutta to Dhaka and a return ticket costs around $100. Biman flies daily to Calcutta and twice weekly to Chittagong. Indian Airlines have five flights a week to Dhaka and two to Chittagong. Although there is no direct line from Calcutta into Bangladesh, trains from Sealdah take you as far as Bongaon. From here you can take an auto-rickshaw to Haridaspur, 5km

Naming of Calcutta

While Calcutta struggles to maintain its position as a world city, a strong parochial trend in recent years has been to replace all English eventually with Bengali - the most obvious result has been the renaming of the city as Kolkata. The shedding of the city's colonial past began decades ago in the Sixties and Seventies when many of the old British street names were officially changed, but Calcutta is slow to change and, three decades or so later, some of the original names continue to be widely used in tandem. The most important of these is Chowhnghee or Jawaharlal

What’s in a name? Calcutta

While Calcutta struggles to maintain its position as a world city, a strong parochial trend in recent years has been to replace all English eventually with Bengali - the most obvious result has been the renaming of the city asKolkata. The shedding of the city's colonial past began decades ago in the Sixties and Seventies when many of the old British street names were officially changed, but Calcutta is slow to change and, three decades or so later, some of the original names continue to be widely used in tandem. The most important of these is Chowhnghee or Jawaharlal Nehru

Places in Calcutta

The Maidan, New Market and Park Street The Maidan - literally "field" - which stretches from the area known as Esplanade in the north to the racecourse in the south, and is bordered by Chowringhee Road to the east and the Strand and the river to the west, is one of the largest city-centre parks in the world. This vast area of open space stands in utter contrast to the chaotic streets of the city that surrounds it, big enough to swallow up several clubs, including the Calcutta Ladies Golf Club, and the immaculate greens of the Calcutta Bowling Club. It

Nabadip and Mayapur in Calcutta

Pilgrims come in their thousands to the pleasant little town of NABADIP (or Nawadip), on the west bank of the Hooghly, around 100km north of Howra. Although it was the eleventh-century capital of Bengal under the Sen dynasty, and the home of Sri Chaitanya, a Hindu sage, few of the many temples clustered around its Mayapur Ghat are of any great antiquity. The most important are Gauranga Mahapur and Sonar Gauranga, but the courtyards of virtually all are alive with devotees singing kirtan (devotional song). A fifty-kilometre padakrama, or foot pilgrimage, links Chaitanya with various sites spread across nine islands.

Cultural centres in Calcutta

Cultural representatives of overseas countries in Calcutta, typically with reading rooms and facilities for performances and film shows, include: the British Council. 5 Shakespeare Sarani; the Russian Gorky Sadan, Gorky Terrace, near Minto Park: and ttie German Max Mueller 8havan, 8 Pramathesh Barua Saram Similar facilities can be found at the Ramakrishna Mission Institute of Culture in Gol Park, and USIS, American Centre, 38A Ciiowringhee Rd. Hospitals Cheap, government-run hospitals (notoriously mismanaged) include Calcutta Hospital

Dakshineshwar and Belur in Calcutta

At the outermost edge of Calcutta, 20km north of Esplanade on the east bank of the river, the popular temple of DAKSHINESHWAR stands in the shadow of Bally Bridge. Built in 1855 by Rani Rashmoni, a wealthy widow, it was a product of the Bengali Renaissance, consecrated at a time when growing numbers of middle-class Hindus were rejecting their faith. As the rani was not a brahmin, she found it hard to employ a priest, but one of those she eventually contracted became renowned as the sainr Ramakrishna who, despite his simplicity, went on to become a powerful influence on

Information about Calcutta

The efficient and friendly Government of India Tourist Office, Shakespeare Sarani (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-lpm, is your best bet for information on Calcutta,'West Bengal and destinations further afield, and can assist with itineraries and booking tours.The Government ofWest Bengal Tourist Bureau. 3/2 BBD Bagh East, arranges tours of Calcutta and package trips around West Bengal. They also issue permits and book tours and accommodation at the Sunderbans and Jaldapara wildlife parks. Tourist information counters at the airport and Howrah Station offer the same services. English-language newspapers such as the

Information on Calcutta

The efficient and friendly Government of India Tourist Office, 4 Shakespeare Sarani (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-1 pm;) is your best bet for information on Calcutta, 'West Bengal and destinations further a field, and can assist with itineraries and booking tours. The Government of West Bengal Tourist Bureau, 3/2 BBD Bagh East (©033/248 8271), arranges tours of Calcutta and package trips around West Bengal. They also issue permits and book tours and accommodation at the Sunderbans and Jaldapara wildlife parks. Tourist information counters at the airport and Howrah Station offer the same

Music and dance in Calcutta

Calcutta music audiences have a reputation as the most discerning in the country. The main concert season is winter and spring, with the huge week-long Dover Lane Music Festival, held under a marquee in south Calcutta around the end of January and early February, attracting many of India's best musicians. Other popular venues for single- and multi-day festivals include Rabindra Sadan on the junction of AJC Bose Road and Cathedral Road and Kala Bhavan on Theatre Road. Sangeet Research Academy. Near Tollygunge Metro Station, one of India's leading north Indian classical music research institutes, offers long-term courses in various music

Travel details of Southern Orissa

Trains Bhubaneswar to: Agra (1-2 daily; 29-37hr 30min); Balasore (10 daily; 4hr); Bangalore (2 weekly; 31lir); Berliampur (7 daily; 2hr 30min-3hr); Calcutta (6-3 daily; 8-13hr); Chennai (2-4 daily; 20hr 45min-26hr); Cochin (4 weekly: 36-38hr); Cuttack (11 daily; 30-55min); Delhi (3-4 daily; 25-43hr); Hyderabad (3 daily; 20-24hr): Mumbai (1 daily; 38hr); Puri (7 daily; 2-3hr); Varartasi (3 weekly; 23hr). Puri to: Agra (1 daily; 38hr 40min}; Balasore (5-6 daily; 4hr 30min-6rir); Bhubaneswar (5-6 daily; 1 hr 3Qmin-2hr); Calcutta (2 daily: 11hr 30min); Delhi (3 daily; 32-44hr); Varanasi (3 weekly; 22hr). Balasore to: Bhubaneswar (7-9 daily; 3hr 45min-6hr); Calcutta (6-8 daily; 4-Shr); Puri

Travel details in the Northeast

Trains Guwahati to: Calcutta (2-3 daily; 23-24hr); Chennai (6 weekly; 54hr); Delhi (4 daily; 28-41 hr); Dibrugarh (2 daily; 14-15r»rr); Dimapur (2 daily; 6hr); Jorhat (1 daily; 12hr); Mughalsarai (2-3 daily; 23-29 hrs); Mumbai (3 weekly; 43-46 hr). Jorhat to: Guwahati (1 dailly; 12 hours). Buses Agartala to; Guwahati (1 daily; 24hr); Neermahal (every 30min; 2hr); Shillorag (1 daily; 20tir); Silchar (2 daily; 11hr); Udaipur (every 15min; 2hr). Aizawl to: Silchar (2 daily:; 12hr). Guwahati to: Agartala (1 daily; 24hr); Imphal (1daily; 18hr); Itanagar (2 daily; 11 hr); Jorhat (12daily; 6-7hr); Kaziranga (12 daily; 4hr 30min);Kohima (1 daily; 12-14hr>; Shillong (12 daily;3-4hr); Silchar

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