India Travel
Chaukhandi Stupa in Sarnath at Uttar Pradesh
The dilapidated brick remains of the Chaukhandi Stupa, 1km south of the main site, date from the Gupta period (300-700 AD), and are said to mark the spot where the Buddha was reunited with the Panchavargiya Bikshus, his five ascetic companions who had previously deserted him. Standing on a terraced rectangular plinth, the stupa is capped by an incongruous octagonal Moghul tower, built by Akbar m 1589 AD to commemorate his father’s visit to the site.
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Sarnath, 10km north of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh
SARNATH, 10km north of Varanasi, is a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists, and has also become popular with day-trippers from Varanasi who picnic among its ruins and parklands. It was in a quiet grove here, in the sixth century BC, that Siddhartha Gautama - who came to be known as the Buddha, the "Awakened One" - gave his first sermon, and set in morion die Wheel of Law, the Dhannachaha. During the rainy season, when the Buddha and his followers sought respite from their round of itinerant teaching, they would retire to Sarnath. Also known as Rishipatana, the place of
The main site and the Dhamekh Stupa in Sarnath at Uttar Pradesh
Dominated by the huge bulk of the Dhamekh Stupa, the extensive archeolog-ical excavations of the main site of Sarnath are maintained within an immaculate park (daily 9am-5pm; S5 [Rs2]). Entering from the southwest, the pillaged remains of the Dharmarajika Stupa lie immediately to the north: within its core the stupa concealed a green marble casket full of human bones and precious objects, including decayed pearls and gold leaf. Commemorating the spot where the Buddha delivered his first sermon, the stupa is attributed to the reign of Ashoka in the third century BC, but was extended a further six times. Adjacent to
The main site and the Dhamekh Stupa of Sarnath at the Eastern UP
Dominated by the huge bulk of the Dhamekh Stupa, the extensive archeological excavations of the main site of Sarnath are maintained within an immaculate park (daily 9am-5pm; S5 [Rs2]). Entering from the southwest, the pillaged remains of the Dharmarajika Stupa lie immediately to the north: within its core the stupa concealed a green marble casket full of human bones and precious objects, including decayed pearls and gold leaf. Commemorating the spot where the Buddha delivered his first sermon, the stupa is attributed to the reign of Ashoka in the third century BC, but was extended a further six times. Adjacent to
Sarnath north of Varanasi at the Eastern UP
SARNATH, 10km north of Varanasi, is a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists, and has also become popular with day-tnppers from Varanasi who picnic among its ruins and parklands. It was in a quiet grove here, in the sixth century BC, that Siddhartha Gautama - who came to be known as the Buddha, the "Awakened One" - gave his first sermon, and set in morion die Wheel of Law, the Dhannachaha. During the rainy season, when the Buddha and his followers sought respite from their round of itinerant teaching, they would retire to Sarnath. Also known as Rishipatana, the place of
Practicalities to Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh
Sarnath is easily reached by road from Varanasi. Blue buses depart regularly from outside Varanasi Cantonment railway station and cost Rs4 but can get very crowded. Shared auto-rickshaws also run from the station for around Rs8 per person and are quicker and more comfortable. The main sites can be quite easily — and pleasantly - explored on foot; the so-called guides who linger outside the main gates and near the museum aren't really necessary. Close to the main gate, the UPTDC Tourist Bungalow has reasonable rooms and a dorm (Rs50). Some of the monasteries, such as the pleasant Burmese Vihara, north
Mulagandha Kuti Vihara and modern sites in Sarnath at Uttar Pradesh
To the east of the Dhamekh Stupa, the lofty church-iike Mulagandha Kuti Vihara (free) was built in 1931 with donations from the international Buddhist community. Run bv the Mahabodhi Societv, it drew devotees from all over the world to witness its consecration, and has become one of Sarnath's greatest attractions for pilgrims and tourists alike. The entrance foyer is dominated by a huge bell - a gift from Japan - and the interior houses a gilded reproduction of the museums famous image of the Buddha, surrounded by fresco-covered walls depicting scenes from his life. A little way east, shielded by a
The Shantl Stupa of Leh Ladakh
A relatively new addition to the rocky skyline around Leh is the toothpaste-white Shanti Stupa above Changspa village, 3km west of the bazaar. Inaugurated in 1983 by the Dalai Lama, the "Peace Pagoda", whose sides are decorated with gilt panels depicting episodes from the life of the Buddha, is one of several such monuments erected around India by a "Peace Sect" of Japanese Buddhists. It can be reached by car, or on foot via a steep flight of 157 steps, which winds up from the end of Changspa Lane to the cafe just below the stupa - a welcome respite
Kushinagar west of Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh
Set against a pastoral landscape, the small hamlet of KUSHINAGAR, 53km west of Gorakhpur, is revered as the site of Buddha's Mahaparinirvana, his death and cremation that marked his final liberation from the cycles of death and rebirth. During the Buddha's lifetime, Kushinara, as it was then called, was a small kingdom of the Mallas, surrounded by forest. It remained forgotten until the late nineteenth century when archeologists rediscovered the site, and began excavations - based on the writings of the seventh-century Chinese pilgrims, including Xuan Zhang. Set in a leafy park in the heart of Kushinagar, the Nirvana Stupa, dated
The Great Stupa in Madhya Pradesh
Stupa 1, or the Great Stupa, stands on a stretch of level ground at the western edge of the plateau. Fragments of the original construction, a much smaller version built in the third century BC by Ashoka, still lie entombed beneath the thick outer shell of lime plaster added a century later. The Shungas were responsible for the raised processional balcony, and the two graceful staircases that curve gently around the sides of the drum from the paved walkway at ground level, as well as the aerial-like chhattm and its square enclosure which crown the top of the mound. Four
The western slope in Madhya Pradesh
A flight of steps beside Stupa 1 leads down the western slope of Sanchi Hill to the village, passing two notable monuments. The bottom portions of the thick stone walls of Vihara 51 have been carefully restored to show its floor-plan of 22 cells around a paved central courtyard. Further down, the second-century BC Stupa 2 stands on an artificial ledge, well below the main enclosure - probably because its relics were less important than those of Stupas 1 and 3. The ornamental railings and gateways around it are certainly no match for those up the hill, although the carvings
Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh
From a distance, the smooth-sided hemispherical object that appears on a hillock overlooking the main train line at SANCHI. 46km northeast of Bhopal, has the surreal air of a space station or an upturned satellite dish. In fact, the giant stone mound stands as testimony to a much older means of communing with the cosmos. Quite apart from being India's finest surviving Buddhist monument, the Great Stupa is one of the earliest religious structures in the subcontinent. It presides over a complex of ruined temples and monasteries that collectively provide a rich and unbroken record of the development of Buddhist
Details of Around Allahabad in the Uttar Pradesh
Just 63km south of Allahabad, on the banks of the Yamuna, are the extensive ruins of Kausambi, a major Buddhist centre where the Buddha himself came to preach. The city flourished between the eighth century BC and the sixth century AD; archeological evidence suggests even earlier habitation. According to legend, it was founded by descendants of the Pandavas, after floods destroyed their city of Hastinapur. Mud ramparts, originally faced with brick, tower over the Belds, running along an irregular 6km perimeter, and sections remain of a defensive moat. Within the complex, excavations have revealed a paved road, brick houses, wells,
Details of Uttar Pradesh
UTTAR PRADESH, "the Northern State", known as UP since the days of the United Provinces, under the Raj, is the heartland of Hinduism and Hindi, dominating the nation in culture, religion, language and politics. A vast steamy plain of the Ganges, its history is very much the history of India, and its temples and monuments - Buddhist, Hindu and Muslim - are among the most impressive in the country. Not far from Delhi, in the west of the state, Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, and deserted Fatehpur Sikri stand as poignant reminders of
Satdhara in Madhya Pradesh
Set among verdant rolling hills 30km north of Bhopal, SATDHARA ("seven streams") is well worth the detour for stupa enthusiasts, although you'll need your own vehicle to get there. Heading north from Bhopal, a signpost about 13km south of Sanchi points west down a motorable seven-kilometre dirt, track leading to the excavated site. There are no less than thirty-four stupas dating from the Mauryan period in the third century BC, several of which are in good condition, and fourteen monasteries, three of which have substantial foundations still visible. Under the auspices of UNESCO, a number of the stupas and two
Central Madhya Pradesh
All roads through the central regions of Madhya Pradesh lead to the state's capital, and its largest and fastest growing city - Bhopal. The city itself may come as a pleasant surprise; amidst the dust and chaos of a metropolitan centre there are plentj of quiet parks around its two lakes. Bhopal is also a good place to break the long journey between south and north; within a couple of hours reach is the unmissable Buddhist stupa complex at Sanchi.and there arc other lesser monuments in the area. The prehistoric site of Bhimbetka is just 45km south of Bhopal, while
Around Mathura of the Braj in the Uttar Pradesh
At the very heart of Braj, Mathura is the obvious base for peregrinations into the pastoral landscape associated with the adolescent Krishna, where the sacred temple-crowned hills of Govardhan, Barsana and Nandagaon stand in striking contrast to the prevailing flatness. Very little survives of its idyllic legendary forests, and only serious pilgrims would choose to walk rather than catch one of the numerous local buses.
Practicalities to Ayodhya in the Uttar Pradesh
Though Ayodhya has a small railway station of its own, most visitors come for the day from busy Faizabad, on buses and auto-rickshaws from the station there. If you want to stay in Ayodhya, the tourist bungalow Hotel Saket, next to the station, has a dorm (Rs50) and a wide range of rooms, as well as a poorly managed restaurant. Alternatively, the Birla Dhararnsala, on the main road, has very decent and cheap accommodation in its "VIP" rooms. Ayodhya is a vegetarian town.
Dhauli of Bhubaneswar in Orissa
The gleaming, white Vishwa Shanti Stupa on Dhauli Hill. 8km south of Bhubaneswar on the Pipli road, was built by Japanese Buddhists in 1972. It] overlooks the spot where the Mauryan emperor Ashoka defeated the Kalingas in the decisive battle of 265 BC. and slightly eclipses the older memorial stupa. Apart from bringing the prosperous Orissan kingdom to its knees, the victory also led the emperor, allegedly overcome by remorse at having slain 150,000 people, to renounce the path of violent conquest in favour of the spiritual path preached by Gautama Buddha. Ever since, there has been a unique tradition
Kanpur and around in the Central UP
The teeming metropolis of KANPUR, 438km east of Delhi and 190km west of Allahabad, is among the most polluted cities in the world, and most visitors are there solely for business. Kanpur has been a textile-manufacturing centre since its cotton mills were established in 1869, and together with its twin city, Lucknow, 76km northeast, it dominates the industrial heartland of Uttar Pradesh. Unlike other points along the Ganges, the riverside is of little significance; its ghats are run down, and only those at Bithur, 20km upstream, are worth exploring.
Details of Eastern UP
Flowing beyond Allahabad across the plains of EASTERN UP, the Ganges turns sharply north at Chunar and traces a great arc through ancient Varanasi. Even before the Hindus declared this to be the most sacred spot on earth, it stood at the centre of die Buddhist universe, linked by trading routes from Rajgir in Bihar to Mathura near Delhi. It was on the outskirts of Varanasi, at the deer park at Sarnath, that the Buddha delivered his first sermon. North ofVaranasi, the much-travelled road to Nepal passes through the large administrative town of Gorakhpur, not far from Kushinagar, where the