India Travel
Cheruthuruthy in Kerala
The village of CHERUTHURUTHY is an easy day-trip 32km north of Thrissur through gently undulating green country. It consists of a few lanes and one main street, which runs south from the bank of Kerala’s longest river, the Bharatapuzha (pronounced Bharatapura). Considered holy by Hindus, the great river has declined in recent years, leaving a vast expanse of sand. Although of little consolation to locals, who have to deal with the problems of a depleted water supply, it has produced a landscape of incomparable beauty.
Cheruthuruthy is famous as the home of Kerala Kalamandalam, the states flagship training school for Kathakali and other indigenous Keralan performing arts, which was founded in 1927 by the revered Keralan poet Vallathol (1878-1957). At first patronized by the Raja of Cochin, the school has been funded by both state and national governments and has been instrumental in the large-scale revival of interest in Kathakali, and other unique Keralan art forms. Despite conservative opposition, it followed an open-door recruitment policy, based on artistic merit, which produced “scheduled caste", Muslim and Christian graduates along with the usual Hindu castes, something that was previously unimaginable. Kalamandalam artists perform in the great theatres of the world, many sharing their extraordinary skills with outsiders; luminaries of modern theatre, such as Grotowski and Peter Brook, are indebted to them. Nonetheless, many of these trained artists are still excluded from entering, let alone performing in, temples, which are popular venues for Hindu art forms, and in particular music.
Non-Hindus can see Kathakati, Kutiyattatn and Mohiniattam performed in the school’s superb theatre, which replicates the wooden, sloping-roofed traditional theatres, known as kuttambalams, found in Keralan temples. If you’re interested in how this extraordinary technique is taught, don’t miss the chance to sit in on the rigorous training sessions, which have to be seen to be believed (Mon-Fri 4.30am-5pm; closed on public holidays). A handful of foreigners each year also come to the Kalamandalam academy to attend full-time courses in Kathakali and other traditional dance and theatre forms. Those interested should first apply in writing. Short courses last for a minimum of one month, or there are condensed courses of between three and six months. Full courses usually last between four and six years and foreign students, with the necessary student visas, are allowed to attend for a maximum of four years. Applications may be made from abroad (write to the Secretary, Kerala Kalamandalam,Valhthol Nagar, Cheruthuruthy,Thrissur Dist, Kerala 679 531). but it’s a good idea to visit before committing yourself. The students’ lot here is not an easy one - to say the least. For information contact the school office (0488/462418, 462019).
A good time to visit is during their annual week-long festival starting on Christmas Day. Held at the kuttambalam and at their original riverside campus amongst the trees, the festival presents all the art forms of* Kerala and is tree -although [lit limited accommodation can be a problem. short walk ;v.’t ‘|K old campus leads to a small but exquisite Shiva temple in classic Keralan style.-where the early evening worship, when the exterior is lit with candles, is particularly rewarding.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Cheruthuruthy Practicalities in Kerala
Cheruthuruthy s accommodation is limited, with some students staying as jjuests in private accommodation or at the new on-site, self-catering international Hostel. The village has a couple of simple guesthouses and the atmospheric Government Rest House (0488/462760; 0), a short distance along the Shoramur road from Kalamandalam, has eight vast and very basic rooms, some with Western-style toilets, and all sharing a veranda. The bustling and (Unattractive town of Shoramur has more options but none that could capture tthe charm of Cheruthuruthy and its environs. Food may be available by .arrangement, and there are simple "meals" shops in the village;
North of Kozhikode in Kerala
The beautiful coast of Kerala, north of Kozhikode, is a seemingly endless stretch of coconut palms, wooded hills and virtually deserted beaches; the towns hold little of interest for visitors, most of whom bypass the area completely. However, then you miss out on the fun of a search through the villages for Teyyattam, the extraordinary masked trance dances that take place throughout the region during winter.
Thrissur in Kerala
The breezy bazaar town of THRISSUR (Trichur), roughly midway between Kochi (74km south) and Palakkad (79km northeast) on NH-47. is an obvious base for exploring the cultural riches of central Kerala. Near the Palghat (Palakkad) Gap - an opening in the natural border made by the Western Ghat mountains - it presided over the main trade route into the region from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. For years Thrissur was the capital of Cochin State, controlled at various times by both the zamorin of Kozhikode and Tipu Sultan of Mysore. Today, it justifiably prides itself on being the cultural capital of
Thiruvananthapuram Information and tours in Kerala
All the tourist offices at the airport are open during flight times. The Government of India's counter (0471/501498) offers general information regarding Kerala and the adjacent states, while the Government of Kerala has two counters, one at the domestic terminal (0471/501085) and the other at the internacion.il terminal (0471/502298), offering Kerala-specific information including, for example, on backwater cruises. The Government of Kerala also has an office in the main block at the Thampanoor bus stand (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0471/327224) which is good for general information and maps and sells tickets for backwater cruises between Kollam and Alappuzha. They have another counter
Chinese fishing nets in Kerala
The huge, elegant Chinese fishing nets that line the northern shore of Fort Cochin add grace to an already characterful waterside view, and ate probably. The single most familiar photographic image of Kerala. Traders from the court of Kublai Khan are said to have introduced them to the Malabar region" Known in Malayalam as cheena vala, they can also be seen throughout the back waters further south. The nets, which are suspended from arced poles and operated by levers and weights, require at least four men to control. You can buy fresh fish from the tiny market here and have
Keralan murals in Kerala
The quality and unique style of the murals at Martancherry Palace in old Kochi, along with those in as many as sixty other locations in Kerala, are probably the best-kept secrets in Indian art. Most are on the walls of functioning temples; they are not marketable, transportable, or indeed even seen by many non-Hindus. Few date from before the sixteenth century, depriving them of the aura of extreme antiquity; their origins may go back to the seventh century, probably influenced by the Pallava style of Tamil Nadu, but only traces in one tenth-century cave temple survive from the earliest period.
Palakkad in Kerala
PALAKKAD (Palghat), surrounded by paddy fields, lies on NH-47 between Thrissur (79km) and Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu (54km), and on the railway line from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. Historically, thanks to the natural 20km-wide Palakkad Gap in the Western Ghats, this area has been one of the chief entry points into Kerala. The environs are beautiful, but the town itself doesn't warrant a stop, other than to break a journey. Arriving from Tamil Nadu, Palakkad, with its dry, Deccan-like landscape, unlike most of the state, gives a misleading first impression of Kerala. The well-preserved fort, built in 1766 by Haider Ali
Ernakulam in Kerala
ERNAKULAM presents the modern face of Kerala, with more of a city feel than Thiruvananthapuram, but small enough not to be daunting. Other than the fairly dull Parishath Thamburan Museum (Tues-Sun 9.30am-noon & 3-5.30pm) in Darbar Hall Road, there's little in the way of sights. Along the busy, long, straight Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Road, which more or less divides Ernakulam in half 500m back from the sea, the main activities are shopping, eating and movie-going. Here you can email and phone to your heart's content, and choose from an assortment of great places to eat Keralan food. This area is
Kovalam’s beaches Accommodation in Kerala
Kovalam is crammed with accommodation, ranging from standard budget rooms with just a double bed and bathroom to five-star hilltop chalets. Only rock-bottom rooms are hard to find, as all but a handful of the many budget travellers' guesthouses have been recently upgraded to suit the standards of the large number of package tourists that flock here over Christmas. This also means that hotels are often block-booked weeks in advance; it pays to phone around and reserve a room before you arrive, which also saves you from the menace of the touts that hang around the bus stand. If you
The Town Thrissur in Kerala
The principal point of orientation in Thrissur is the Round, a road subdivided into North. South. East and West, which encircles the Vadakkunatha templeand maidan at the centre. Once you've established which side of the Round you're on, you can save yourself long walks along the busy pavement by striking out across the green. The State Art Museum and Zoo (both Tues-Sun 10am-5pm) stand together on Museum Road, ten minutes' walk from Round East, in the north-cast of town (turn right at the end of Palace Road and walk 200m down the right-hand side). Although small, the museum has excellent local
Kollam (Quilon) and around in Kerala
One of the oldest ports of the Malabar coast, KOLLAM (pronounced "Koillam" and previously known as Quilon), 74km northwest of Thiruvananthapuram and 85km south of Alappuzha, was once at the centre of the international spice trade. The sixteenth-century Portuguese writer Duarte Barbossa described it as a" very great city with a right good haven", which was visited by "Moors, Heathen and Christians in great numbers", and stated that "a great store" of pepper was to be found there. In fact, the port flourished from the very earliest times, trading amicably with the Phoenicians, Arabs, Persians, Greeks, Romans and Chinese. Nowadays, Kollam
South of Kovalam: Vizhinjam (Vilinjam) in Kerala
The unassuming village of VIZHINJAM. (pronounced Vinnyam), on the opposite (south) side of the headland from Lighthouse beach, was once the capital of the Ay kings, the earliest dynasty in south Kerala. During the ninth century the Fandyans intermittently took control, and it was the scene ot major Chola-Chera battles in the eleventh century.A number of small simple shrinsfl survive from those times, and can be made the focus of a pleasant afternoons stroll along shady paths through coconut groves. They're best approached from the village centre, beyond a fishing community, rather than via the coast roan However, if you
Around Thrissur in Kerala
The chief appeal of exploring the area around Thrissmr is for the chances it Provide to get to grips with Kerala's cultural heritage Countless festivals, at their peak before the monsoon hits in May, enable visitors to catch some of the best drummers in the world, Kathakali dance drama and Kutiyattam. the world's oldest surviving theatre form.
Kozhikode (Calicut) in Kerala
The busy coastal city of KOZHIKODE (Calicut), 225km north of Kochi, occupies an extremely important place in Keralan legend and history. It is also significant in the story of European interference in the subcontinent, as Vasco da Gama first set foot in India at Kozhikode in 1498. However, as a tourist destination, it's a dud, with precious few remnants of its historic past. The few foreigners that pause here invariably do so only to break the long journey between Mysore and Kochi. Kozhikode s roots are shrouded in myth. According to Keralan tradition, the powerful king Cheraman Perumal is said to
Kovalam and around south from Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala
The coastal village of KOVALAM may lie just 10km south from Thiruvananthapuram, but as Kerala's most developed beach resort it's becoming ever more distanced from the rest of the state. Each year greater numbers of Western visitors - budget travellers and jet-setters alike - arrive in search of sun, sea and palm-fringed beaches. For many travellers it has become, with Goa and Mamallapuram, the third essential stop on a triangular tour of tropical south Indian "paradises" - or indeed just another leg of the trail along the coasts of South Asia. Europeans have been visiting Kovalam since the 1930s, but not
Thrissur Shopping in Kerala
Thrissur is a great place to pick up distinctive Keralan crafts.The main shopping area is on the Round; on Round West, the Kerala State Handicraft Emporium specializes in wood, while a few doors along, a small branch of Khadi Gramodyog sells a limited range of hand-loom cloth. A far better selection of hand-loom can be found in Co-optex at the top of Palace Road (a one-minute walk from Round East). At Chemmanur's. Round South, near the Elite Hotel, you'll find the usual carved wooden-elephant-type souvenirs, and, on die ground floor, a high-kitsch Aladdin's Cave of nodding dogs, Jesus clocks, Mecca
Palakkad Practicalities in Kerala
Palakkad is well connected to the rest of Kerala and most of the main express trains travelling through to Chennai, Bangalore and points further north stop at Palakkad's railway station, 6km to the northeast. The KSRTC bus stand is slap in the centre of town; most accommodation, in budget Indian-style lodges, is nearby.The Ammbctdi,onTB Road, opposite the town bus stand and 500m from the KSRTC bus siand (0491/531244; 0-0), has comfortable rooms, some a/c, and the restaurant serves Indian and Chinese food. Far more, the modern Holel Indraprastha, English Church Road (0491/534641, 539531), boasts large rooms, some with a/c, a
Kovalam’s Eating and nightlife in Kerala
Light house beach is lined with sandy laid-back cafes and restaurants including Gdrzia, Croaker's and Coral Reef, all specializing in seafood, although chicken, pasta and veg options are widely available. If you want seafood, pick from the fresh fish, lobster, tiger prawns, crab and mussels on display, which are then weighed, grilled over a charcoal fire, and served with salad and chips. Meals are pricey by Indian standards - typically around Rsl50 per head for fish, and double that for lobster or prawns - and the service is often painfully slow, but the ambience of the beachfront terraces is convivial
Kochi (Cochin) Tours and backwater trips in Kerala
KTDC's half-day Kochi boat cruise (daily 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; I Ks50) is a good way to orient yourself. However, it doesn't stop for long in either Mattancherry or Fort Cochin, so give it a miss if you are pushed for time. Departing from the High Court Jetty on Shanmugham Road, Ernakulam, it calls at the synagogue, Mattancherry Dutch Palace, St Francis Church, the Chinese fishing nets, and Bolghatty Island. Book at the KTDC Reception Centre on Shanmugham Road (0484/353234). KTDC, the Tourist Information Centre, and a couple of private companies also operate popular backwater trips out of Kochi.
Thripunitra Eating in Kerala
Unusually for Keralan cities, Kochi offers a wide choice for eating out, from the delicious fresh-cooked fish by the Chinese fishing nets at Fort Cochin, to the sophistication of the Bmntori Boatyard. Between the two extremes, various popular, modest places in Ernakulam serve real Keralan food. The ferries run all evening, and so it is possible to enjoy a meal on one of the more atmospheric islands before heading back to Ernakulam at about 9pm.