India Travel
Chilika Lake in Southern Orissa
Were it not for its glass-like surface, CHILIKA LAKE, Asia’s largest lagoon, could easily be mistaken for the sea. From its mud-fringed foreshore you can barely make out the narrow strip of marshy islands and sand-flats that separate the 1100-square-kilometre expanse of brackish water from the Bay of Bengal. Come here between December and February, though, and you’ll see dozens of migratory bird species from as far afield as Siberia and Iran, including avocets, ruffs, pelicans, ospreys, flamingoes and rare cranes. Chital and black buck can also sometimes be spotted on the shore, and schools of Hide dolphins surround the boats. Elsewhere around the lake, several islands (some inhabited by small subsistence fishing communities, others deserted) are popular destinations for daily boat trips. By and large, the fishing villages and fabled island “kingdom” of Parikud on the eastern side of die lake, home to one of India’s wackier maharajas, are passed up in favour of the devi shrine on Kalijai island. Legend has it that a local girl once drowned here on the way to her wedding across the lake. Since no suitable male member of the family could be found to accompany the girl on the journey, her father stepped in at the last minute - a serious breach of Hindu custom. En route, a retributory storm blew in from the sea and overturned the boat. “When they had all but given up the search for survivors, some fishermen claimed to have heard the girl’s voice calling from under the water that she had become a goddess and that a shrine should be inaugurated in her name. Over the years the miracle has become associated with Kali (Shiva’s consort Durga in her terrifying aspect) and the place it occurred something of a sacred site. Each year at makar sankrati, after the harvest, pilgrims flock to the tiny island from all over Orissa and “West Bengal to leave votive offerings in die cave where the deity was enshrined.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Practicalities of Southern Orissa
The best place to stay on the lake is the excellent value Yatri Micas at Satapada on the coastal side, just 45km from Pun and linked by several daily buses. Some rooms have private balconies and the well-tended gardens run down to the lake; the restaurant prepares delicious thalis and fresh seafood if given advance notice. Rooms can be booked from Pun's tourist office. There's a cheap and accessible OTDC Panthaniwas (06810/57346), near the railway station at Rambha, 135km from Bhubaneswar, but it's lacklustre and best avoided. The only plus is that it's well placed for walks around the more
Travel details of Southern Orissa
Trains Bhubaneswar to: Agra (1-2 daily; 29-37hr 30min); Balasore (10 daily; 4hr); Bangalore (2 weekly; 31lir); Berliampur (7 daily; 2hr 30min-3hr); Calcutta (6-3 daily; 8-13hr); Chennai (2-4 daily; 20hr 45min-26hr); Cochin (4 weekly: 36-38hr); Cuttack (11 daily; 30-55min); Delhi (3-4 daily; 25-43hr); Hyderabad (3 daily; 20-24hr): Mumbai (1 daily; 38hr); Puri (7 daily; 2-3hr); Varartasi (3 weekly; 23hr). Puri to: Agra (1 daily; 38hr 40min}; Balasore (5-6 daily; 4hr 30min-6rir); Bhubaneswar (5-6 daily; 1 hr 3Qmin-2hr); Calcutta (2 daily: 11hr 30min); Delhi (3 daily; 32-44hr); Varanasi (3 weekly; 22hr). Balasore to: Bhubaneswar (7-9 daily; 3hr 45min-6hr); Calcutta (6-8 daily; 4-Shr); Puri
Southern Orissa
Long stretches of dishevelled roadside settlements and rural stations along the National Highway do not inspire much excitement about the stretch of coast between Puri and Andhara Pradesh. However, there are a couple of scenic detours that may tempt you to break a long journey. Three hours south of the capital, at the foot of a barren, sea-facing spur of the Eastern Ghats - which creep up to the coast here - is India's largest salt-water lake. Chilika's main attractions are the one million or so migratory birds that nest here in winter, and leisurely boat trips to its islands.
Orissan festivals
Chances of coinciding with a festival while in Orissa are good, since the region celebrates many of its own as well as all the usual Hindu festivals for additional details of Mayurbhunj festivals. Makar Mela (mid-Jan). Pilgrims descend on a tiny island in Chilika Lake to leave votive offerings in a cave for the goddess Kali. Adivasis Mela (Jan 26-Feb 1). Bhubaneswar's "tribal" fair is a disappointing cross between Coney Island and an agricultural show, though it does feature good live music and dance. Magha Saptami (Jan & Feb). During the full moon phase of Magha, a small pool at Chandrabhaga beach, near
Listings of Jagannath in Orissa
Bicycle rental Along CT Road between the Gandhara and Love and Life; places include Mickey Mouse and Unique Tours. Banks and exchange The State Bank of India, beyond the Nilachai Ashok Hotel, on VIP Road (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, Sat 10am-noon), will change American Express travellers' cheques and cash in US and Australian dollars, Deutschmarks and sterling, but doesn't give cash on credit cards. You can also change money at a branch of the Allaliabad Bank, on Temple Road, 200m up from the GPO towards the temple, and Trade Wings, above the Travellers Inn on CT Road. Bookshops Loknath Bookshop next to Raju's
Mirik in North Bengal
MIRIK, 45km southwest of Darjeeling near the border with Nepal, is the region's newest resort, primarily geared up for domestic tourists. There is a large and lively Gelugpa or "yellow hat" monastery above the picturesque central lake, but most of the tourism is centred around boating on the lake. Surrounded by large tea estates and pine forests, Mirik is a pleasant enough place and can be visited as a long day-trip from Darjeeling or as a stopover on an alternative route down to Sihguri. Most of the accommodation is restricted to the newer Krishnagar settlement at the southern end of the
The southern area in Madhya Pradesh
The southern area of the enclosure harbours some of Sanchi's most interesting temples. Pieces of burnt wood dug from the foundations of Temple 40 prove that the present apsicial-cnded chaitya was built on top of an earlier structure contemporary with the Mauryan Stupa 1. Temple 17 is a fine example of early Gupta architecture and the precursor of the classical Hindu design developed later in Orissa and Khajuraho. Its small, flat-roofed sanctum is entered via an open-sided porch held up by four finely carved pillars with lion capitals. Nearby, directly opposite the Great Stupa's southern entrance, the talislender pillars of
Details of Orissa
Despite being one of India's poorest regions, ORISSA boasts a distinctive and rich cultural heritage. From a backdrop of thickly forested mountains, where adivasi communities continue a very traditional way of life, the mighty Mahanandi and Brahmani rivers meander down to the fertile alluvial plains that run along the coast of the Bay of Bengal. Any visitor to Orissa cannot fail to notice the glaring contrast throughout the region, between the overwhelming vibrancy of the temples and monuments of powerful former dynasties and the desperately impoverished, drought-prone, paddy-field economy of Orissa today. Despite the seemingly idyllic existence of villages with their
Kankroli and Rajsamand of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Northeast of Nathdwara, NH-8 winds through another 17km of undulating scrub before reaching KANKROLI, 65km from Udaipur. This dusty little market town stands on the shores of the vast Rajsamand Lake, whose construction was commissioned by Maharana Raj Singh in the seventeenth century after a terrible drought swept Rajasthan. On the lake's western shore, a few kilometres our of town, is Nauchowki. a collection of nine chowks (pavilions), on platforms above the steps leading to the water. With carved pillars and ceilings showing scenes from the life of Krishna, these chowks were erected by Raj Singh to commemorate his marriage to
Parasumaresvara Mandir in Orissa
The best preserved and most beautiful of Bhubaneswar's early temples, the lavishly decorated Parasumaresvara Mandir stands in the shade of a large banyan tree just beyond the square, and was built around 650 AD. Art historians rave about this temple, which, with its plain, rectangular assembly hall (jagamohana), simple stepped roof and squat beehive-shaped tower (deul), typifies the predominant style of late seventh-century Orissa. Tn addition to the sheer quality of its exterior sculpture, Parasumaresvara is significant in marking the then-recent transition from Buddhism to Hinduism. The brahmin may point out panels depicting Lakulisha, the proselytizing Shaivite whose sect was
Around the town in Orissa
Capital Market, situated m a residential area along Janpath, is the place to buy typical Orissan handlooms, handicrafts and jewellery. All the material shops claim to be the official government outlet, so the prices for lengths of beautifully woven cloth and ready-made garments are very competitive. Tucked in a corner of Unit Two East, next to a large fast-food joint, is a treasure-trove of tribal and village crafts and jewellery and materials, all at bargain prices. Ask to look in the dusty cupboards and you may well stumble across an antique mask or two. Hidden away on the northwestern edge of
Parks and gardens in Ahmedabad
Ahmedabad's quieter spots and open spaces provide welcome relief from the chaos of the busy streets. Just south of Bhadra, the Victoria Gardens are suitably formal, with spacious lawns and tree-lined promenades around a pompous statue of Queen Victoria. The entrance is round the side, away from the main road. Southwest of the old city, picturesque gardens also surround the artificial sided Kankaria Lake. Dating from 1451, the lake has a fascinating ornate sluicegate on its eastern edge, a collection of Dutch and Armenian tombs on the west bank, and an island in the centre. The cramped zoo is not
Neermahal in the Northeast
The fairy-tale water palace of NEERMAHAL, in the middle of Rudrasagar Lake. 55km south of Agartala, was built in 1930 as a summer residence for Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya. Inspired by Moghul architecture, the palace (daily 9am-6pm) is rather derelict inside, but the exterior and gardens have been restored, and the sight of the domes and pavilions reflected in the lake, especially under the early evening floodlights, is impressive. You can rent boats to cross the lake to the palace from just opposite the tourist lodge (motorboats Rsl25 per hour; punts Rs60 per half hour), a very pleasant journey
West side of Lake Pichola of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Amet Haveli, Chandpole. Newly renovated wing of an old haveli, occupying a perfect spot on the waterfront, with spectacular views of the city and palaces out of arched windows. The six en-suite rooms are simply furnished to retain the building's original character, with marble floors and stained glass that makes the most of the reflected light off the water. Quality restaurant adjacent. Top value. Lake Pichola, Chandpole Grand waterfront hotel, recently constructed in traditional style, with "deluxe" lake-facing rooms and a roof terrace boasting superb views of the palace Moneychangmg. boat rides and room service. Accepts credit cards. lake Star,
Nainital north of Delhi at Uttaranchal
The dramatic crater lake of Nainital (tal means lake), set in a mountain hollow at an altitude of 1938rn, 277km north of Delhi, gives its name to the largest and most important town in Kumaon. Discovered for Europeans in 1841 by Mr Barron, a wealthy sugar merchant, NAINITAL swiftly became a popular escape from the summer heat of the lowlands, and continues to be one of India's main hill stations. Throughout the year, and especially between March and July, hordes of tourists and honeymooners pack the Mall, the promenade that links Mallital (head of the lake), the older colonial part of
Around Agartala in the Northeast
On the border with Bangladesh, 27km south of Agartala, the large lake of Kamala Sagar is overlooked by a small but important Kali Temple. Its twelfth-century sandstone image of Mahisa-Mardini, a form of Durga, has a skwatingam in front of it. Buses leave from Battala bus stand in Agartala to the lake (5 daily: 1hr). On the road to Udaipur, 33km south of Agartala, the nature reserve at Sepahijala extends over eighteen square kilometres, with a lake, zoo and botanical gardens, and is home to primates including the Hoolock gibbon and goiden langur and around 150 species of birds. The beautiful
Accommodation to Udaipur in Rajasthan
Sandwiched between the City Palace and jagdish temple on the east side of Lake Pichola, countless guesthouses vie for views of the water with elegant havelis and royal palaces. Cut-throat competition in this area has meant perennially low tariffs for punters in most categories. But it has also sparked off a destructive building boom as hoteliers scramble to attract customers with better views from ever loftier tower blocks. The result is a mass of hideous concrete that threatens to engulf the very skyline tourists flock here to see. In 1999, the High Court ruled that no further building should take
Berhampur in Southern Orissa
BERHAMPUR is the last major Orissan town before Andhra Pradesh. There is little of tourist interest except perhaps the weavers' quarter around thetemple where the town's famous silk sans are still produced using traditional hand looms. Moving on is most people's priority. The mam bus routes from Berhampur are north to Bhubaneswar (4hr; the OTDC luxury bus leaves at 2.30pm); west past Taptapani (every 15min: Rsl5) towards Rayagada and Koraput; and east to Gopalpur-on-Sea. Private buses leave from the new bus stand, some way across town, while the state transport company works out of the more central bus stand in the
The City of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The original settlement of Udaipur focused around the grand City Palace. bordering the west shore of Lake Pichola. Immediately north is the maze of tightly winding streets that constitute the old city. It cakes a few days of wandering before this labyrinth becomes intelligible; start by getting acquainted with the gates and circles that form traffic islands at the major crossroads. From the clock tower that marks the northern edge of the old city, roads lead east to the tourist information office and Ahar, west to the lake, and north to the GPO at Chetak Circle. Continuing north, the road
Fateh Sagar of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Not far west of Sahelion-ki-Bari is Fateh Sagar, a lake fringed by sharp hills and connected to Lake Pichola by a canal built shortly after the turn of the twentieth century. At the jetty on the western shore, you can hop on the boat that ferries tourists across the water to Nehru Park in the centre of the Jake (daily: summer Sam—6.30pm; winter 8am-6pm; Rs3).The park, constructed in 1937 as a famine relief project, is nothing special, but pleasant enough if you want to get away from the bustle of the town.