India Travel
Corbett National Park at Ramnagar northeast in Delhi and southwest of Nainital in Uttaranchal
Corbett National Park, based at Ramnagar. 250km northeast of Delhi and 63km southwest of Nainital, is one of India’s premier wildlife reserves. Established in 1936 by Jim Corbett among others, as the Hailey National Park, India’s first, and later renamed in his honour, it is one of Himalayan India’s hist expanses of wilderness. Almost the entire 521-square-kilometre park, spread over the foothills of Kumaon, is sheltered by a buffer zone of mixed deciduous and giant sal forests, which provide impenetrable cover for wildlife. Most of the Core Area of 330 square kilometres at its heart remains out of hounds, and safaris on foot are only permissible m the fringe forests.
Corbett is most famous for its big cats, and in particular the tiger - this was the first designated Project Tiger Reserve, in 1973-but its tigers are extremely elusive. Sightings are very far from guaranteed, and should be regarded as an unlikely bonus. Nonetheless, although there have been problems elsewhere with the project, and the very survival of the tiger in India is in serious jeopardy (see Contexts), Corbett does at least seem to be prioritizing the needs of tigers over those of other wildlife - and of tourists - and claims to have poaching under control.
The park holds a great assortment of other animals. Large elephant herds have been confined within its boundaries since the construction of the Ramganga reservoir blocked migratory routes that formerly ranged as far as Rajaji National Park, 200km west. The best place to see them is around the picturesque Dhikala camp near the reservoir, especially in spring, when the water level drops and the animals have more space to roam. The reservoir shelers populations of gharial a long-snouted, fish-eating crocodile, and manger, large marsh crocodile, and other reptiles. Jackal are common, and wild boar Tin through the camps in the evenings. The grasslands around Dhikala arc ionic to deer species such as the spotted deer known as chital hog deer and he larger sambar. Rhesus and common langur are both abundant, representing the two main classes of Indian monkeys. Bird life ranges from water birds such as the pied kingfisher to birds of prey, including the crested serpent eagle, Pallas’s fishing eagle and Himalayan greyheaded fishing eagle.
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Getting to and from Corbett National Park at Uttaranchal
Ramnagar is served by frequent buses to and from Nainital and Ranikhet, 112km north. Buses arrive every halt-hour or so after the eight-hour trip from Delhi; Delhi Transport Corporation run a semi-deluxe service (Rs90), and most of the alternatives are pretty basic. The only direct train to Delhi leaves it 8pm and arrives at 6.30am, with interminable stops along the way. For faster trams and connections to other parts change at Moradabad. The nearest airport, at Pantnagar, 80km southeast, is rarely used. The closest of the various gates into the park, lkm from central Kamnagar, is Amdanda on the road to
Nainital north of Delhi at Uttaranchal
The dramatic crater lake of Nainital (tal means lake), set in a mountain hollow at an altitude of 1938rn, 277km north of Delhi, gives its name to the largest and most important town in Kumaon. Discovered for Europeans in 1841 by Mr Barron, a wealthy sugar merchant, NAINITAL swiftly became a popular escape from the summer heat of the lowlands, and continues to be one of India's main hill stations. Throughout the year, and especially between March and July, hordes of tourists and honeymooners pack the Mall, the promenade that links Mallital (head of the lake), the older colonial part of
Rajaji National Park and around east of Haridwar at Uttaranchal
Around 830 square kilometres of the Himalayan foothills immediately east of Haridwar are taken up by RAJAJI NATIONAL PARK (mid-Nov to mid-June; Rs100 for three days, Rs50 each additional day, plus Rs20 per vehicle, Rs500 with video camera), which belongs to the same forest belt as Corbett National Park, 180km east. Although not geared for tourism to the same extent as Corbett, the park is absolutely beautiful, with a similar range of wildlife -most notably elephants, but also antelope, leopard and even a rare species of anteater - although no tigers. There are eight entry gates into the national park
Travel details for Uttaranchal
Trains Haridwar to: Calcutta (1 daily; 33hr); Dehra Dun (8 daily; 2hr); Delhi (4 daily: 4hr 30min-8hr); Mumbai (1 daily; 40hr); Katfigodam (3 daily: 4lir 30min-8hr); Rishikesh (2 daily; 30min). Kathgodam (railhead 3hr from Naimtal) to: Calcutta (1 daily; 4Dhr); Delhi (2 daily: 8hrl. Buses Almora to: Nainital (4 daily; 3hr); Delhi (2 daily;11hr). Dehra Dun to: Delhi (6 daily; 8hr); Kullu/Manali (1daily; 14hr): Mussoorie (every 30min; 1hr): Nainital(1 daily; 11hr); Rishikesh (every 30min; Ihr 30mm) Haridwar to: Dehra Dun (hourly: 1hr 15min); Delhi (4-6 daily; 5-6hr); Rishikesh (20 daily; 30min). Mussoorie to: Dehra Dun (every 30min; 1hr); Delhi (2 daily; 9hr); Haridwar (every 30min;
Shaivite temple of Kumaon in Uttaranchal
The Shaivite temples of Kumaon, such as Jageshwar. Bhageshwar and Baijnath, do not attract the same fervour as their equivalents in Garhwal. Instead they remain frozen in time, undisturbed by the throngs from the plains. In fact, the Kumaon's comparative unholincss is probably an advantage as there is much less tourist traffic, so villages are largely unspoilt and trekking routes unfiltered. Hill towns like Almora, Ranikhet and Kausani have a charm of their own, with views towards the snows, while in Corbett National Park, southeast of the resort of Nainital, vast jungles continue to protect tiger and huge herds
By bus in Delhi
Delhi is at the centre of an extensive bus network covering much of north India's neighbouring states. Buses can often be quicker than trams, but the long-distance ones especially tend to be uncomfortable. On long-distance routes there's usually a choice between ramshackle state-run buses and smart soft-seated coaches run by tourist offices, hotels and private agents. Use these as much as you can — outside the main cities, all buses are state-run. The vast majority of state-run buses depart from the Inter-state Bus Terminal near Kashmiri Gate in Old Delhi, which has a cafe and left-luggage counter. However, services for some
Practicalities of Nainital in Uttaranchal
Two main highways approach Nainital from opposite ends; one arrives at Mallital from Ranmagar and Corbett National Park, the other, which brings in most of the traffic, comes in at Tallital in the south. Buses and taxis from Tallital travel with great frequency to the closest railhead at Kathgodam near Haklwani, 40km south. The nearest airport, at Pantnagar, 72km south, is rarely used and best reached by taxi. ParvatTours and Tourist Information Centre,Tallital (05942/35656), run by KMVN, organizes tours, car rental and books accommodation at all KMVN lodges. Cars can also be rented from agencies along the Mall, such as Hina
Uttaranchal Northest of Delhi
Northeast of Delhi, bordering Nepal and Tibet, the mountains of Garwhal and Kumaon rise from the fertile sub-Himalayan plains. Together they form the new state of UTTARANCHAL, also M known as Uttarkhand, which was recently shorn free from lowland Uttar Pradesh after years of agitation. The region has its own distinct languages and cultures, and successive deep river valleys shelter fascinating micro-civilizations, where Hinduism meets animism and the Buddhist influence is never too far away. The area is progressively opening up to visitors, with the slow demilitarization of the Tibetan border regions to the north. Although not as
Haridwar northeast of Delhi
At Haridwar - the Gates (dwar) of God (Han) - 214km northeast of Delhi, the River Ganges emerges from its final rapids past the Siwalik Hills to start the long siow journey across northern India to the Bay of Bengal. Stretching for roughly 3km along a narrow strip of land between the craggy wooded hills to the west and the river to the east, Haridwar is especially revered by Hindus, for whom the Har-ki-Pairi ghat (literally the "Footstep of God") marks the exact spot whore the river leaves the mountains. As you look north along the vast Doon Valley, the
Bindevasani and forest trails northest of Chila at Uttaranchal
Along the Kimsar road, which penetrates the deep sal forests northeast of Chila, visitors have a reasonable chance of glimpsing wild elephant. Elephant herds migrate here seasonally from as far away as Corbett, and can sometimes be seen in the forests behind Swarg Ashram in Rishikesh. The tiny hamlet of BINDEVASANI, 14km northeast of Chila and linked to both' Chila and Haridwar by regular buses, stands at the foot of steep hills. Besides a small dhammshala and a teashop, there's little here to detain travellers, but it's possible to camp in the covered forecourt of the small cliff top Durga
Dehra Dun north of Delhi in Uttaranchal
The newly crowned capital of Uttaranchal. DEHRA DUN, 255km north of Delhi, tends to be seen simply as a staging post on the way to the hill station of Mussoorie, 34km north, and the Garhwal interior. Pleasantly located at just below 700m, as the Himalayan foothills begin their dramatic rise, Dehra Dun never gets too hot in summer, and snows only rarely in winter. With its vast open spaces and colonies such as the Cantonment, this popular retirement spot is renowned for its elite public schools and prestigious institutions. Although occupied in turn by Sikhs, Moghuls, and Gurkhas, it is
Pithoragarh of the easternmost of Kumaon in Uttaranchal
PITHORAGARH, the headquarters of the easternmost district of Kumaon, in the beautiful sprawling Sore valley, IH8km northeast of Nainital, is a busy administrative and market town which acts as a gateway to the mountains. While the town itself is not particularly attractive and only worth stopping at to stock up on provisions for expeditions, the fringes remain charming with terraced cultivation at an altitude of around 1650m offering glimpses of Panchuli and the remote mountains of western Nepal. Above Pithoragarh, in the pine-wooded slopes of the Leprosy Mission at Chandag 7km north, a large cross overlooks the valley, commanding views of
Almora and around north of Nainital in Uttaranchal
ALMORA, 67km north of Nainital, is one of the rare Kumaoni towns that conspicuously predates the Raj, with its cobbled alleyways and wood and stone buildings. Founded by the Chand dynasty in 1560, and occupied successively by the Gurkhas and the British, it remains a major market town, and is considered the cultural capital of the region. Set at a pleasant altitude of 1646m on rambling ridges that look towards the inner Himalayan snows, Almora's peaceful environs have attracted an eclectic assortment of visitors over the years, such as SwamiVivekananda,Timothy Leary and the Tibetologist and author of The Way of
Gir National Park in Gujarat
The Asiatic lion which, thanks to hunting, forest-cutting and poaching, has been extinct in the rest of India since the 1880s, now survives in the wild in just 1150 square kilometres of the gently undulating Gir Forest. Gir National Park (mid-Oct or Nov to mid-June daily 7-11 am & 3-5.30pm), entered from Sasan Gir. 60km southeast of Junagadh and 45km northeast of Veraval, holds almost three hundred Asiatic lions in its 260 square kilometres. They share the land with Maldhari cattle-breeders, whose main source of income is buffalo milk. Many families have been relocated outside the sanctuary, but those who
Travel details in Delhi
Trains To Rajasthan: Abu Road (3-4 daily; 11hr 10min-14hr 15min); Ajmer (5-6 daily; 7hr 1 Omin-11 hr 5min); Bharatpur (5 daily; 2hr 50min-4hr 15min): Bikaner (3 daily; 1Ohr 20min-11hr 4Dmin): Chittaurgarti (2 daily: 16hr 30min); Jaipur (10-12 daily; 4hr 25min-11hr 35min); Jodfipur (2 daily; 10hr 55min-13hr 40min); Kota (7-9 daily; 4hr 40min-10hr 45min); Sawai Madhopur (7 daily; 5hr 15min-8hr 15min); Udaipur (2 daily: 15hr 10min-21hr 15min). To Uttar Pradesh: Agra (18-20 daily: Itir 55min-4br 40min); Allahabad (10-12 daily; 7-14tir), Delira Dun (2-3 daily; 5hr 25min-10hr 20min); GoraKhpur (4-5 daily; 13hr 30min-22hr 5fnin); Kanpur (18-22 daily; 4tir 25min-8hr 20min); Lucknow (5-6 daily;
Palamau (Betla) National Park
In a remote and lawless corner of the state, 170km west of Ranchi, the beautiful forests of the PALAMAU NATIONAL PARK (also known as Betla), cover around 1000 square kilometres of hilly terrain rising south towards Madhya Pradesh. Part of the Project Tiger scheme (see Contexts, p. 1532). Palamau has been hard hit by drought, and even optimistic estimates of its tiger population stand at a mere sixty.Tiger sightings, more common in the hot season, are proudly announced on a noticeboard at the park offices. Like many national parks, Palamau consists of a buffer zone, open to visitors, surrounding a core
Practicalities of Almora in Uttaranchal
Almora has regular bus connections with Nainital (3 daily; 3hr), Ranikhet (5 daily; 2hr 30m.in), Kathgodam, the nearest railhead (2 daily; 4hr), and Kausam (6 daily; 2hr 30min). Most buses use either of two adjacent stands on the Mall, which has a taxi stand close by if you're heading for distant accommodation, such as the Holiday Home. However, most hotels are within walking distance. Access to much of the centre, including the market area above the Mall, is restricted to pedestrians. Another bus stand at Dharanaula, on the other side of the market, is for buses to the interior of
Bandhavgarh National Park in Eastern Madhya Pradesh
With Kanha becoming ever more popular, Madhya Pradesh's second national park at BANDHAVGARH, tucked away in the hilly northeast of the state, is receiving increasing attention from tourists. The draw is that the park has the highest relative density of tigers of any of India's reserves, shelters a collection of fascinating ruins, and offers the chance of trekking through the jungle on elephant-back. It's a long haul to Bandhavgarh from either Jabalpur (195km) or Khajuraho (237km), but worth it - not only to track tigers and deer but also, as all the accommodation is close to the park gates, to
Sawai Madhopur and Ranthambore National Park Practicalities East of Jaipur in Rajasthan
Sawai Madhopur is served by trains on the main Mumbai-Delhi line, and is thus easily accessible from Bharatpur, Agra, Jaipur and Delhi, as well as destinations further south, such as Kota. The train tracks divide the main residential side of town to the north from the industrial zone, known as Sawai Madhopur City, to the south (where you arrive when travelling from Shivpuri). The station is midway between the two, close to the bus stand and bustling Bazriya market area, near the cheapest lodges. About 100m southwest along the train lines (toward1; Mumbai and Jaipur) is a flyover carrying the
National Philatelic Museum in Central New Delhi
To locate the National Philatelic Museum, at Dak Bhavan, Post Office Sansad Marg (Mon-Fn 9.30am-l2.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm; free), go to the entrance by the car park at the back of the post office on Sansad Marg and report to reception, where you will be given a pass to go up to the first floor and view the extensive collection of rare stamps. These include first-day covers and special cancellations from the pre- and post-Independence eras. A booth in the main post office sells special commemorative stamps to liven up your letters.