India Travel
Eating for Ramnagar in Eastern UP
Most of the old city cafes are veg, and alcohol is not tolerated, but the newer Cantonment area is less constrained by religious mores, and some of the more expensive hotels have bars. After a trip on the boats in the early morning, try kachori, savoury deep-fried pastry bread, a traditional snack found m the old city next to the ghats — but avoid the chai stalls here as the cups are washed in the river. Varanasi is also renowned for its sweets and paati (betel leaf). Bhang, a-.tent form of cannabis, sometimes mixed in lassis, is available from government-licensed shops, along with weak weed and ropey opium.
Stomach disorders are a common phenomenon in Varanasi, so stick to bottled or treated water and be careful when choosing where you eat. In December 1998, two young Irish travellers died from food poisoning here, j allegations have been made suggesting that they were .victims of a bizarre scam involving unscrupulous restaurateurs and medical staff poisoning customers in order to claim medical costs from the victim’s insurance company.
For more details on a similar scam in Agra, see the box on p.300. There are some excellent restaurants around, and your hotel restaurant (if it has one) should be fairly safe if only because an entire guesthouse full of dying travellers may arouse suspicion. The Vishnu Rest House on Pandey Ghat does excellent chalis; the Shanti has an extensive menu including a host of Israeli food; and the Yogi Lodge near Vishwanatha temple must have the cleanest kitchen in the old city - all the travellers’ favourites but not a lot of spice. Amrapali, next to the Tourist Bungalow, Parade Jagatganj near the Hotel Pradeep. Indian, Chinese Kothi, Cantonment. Smart a/c restaurant with very and Continental food served either indoors or in their pleasant garden. Reasonable rates. Keshari, off Dashaswamedh Road, down a small alley beyond the Bank of Baroda building as you approach from the river. Cool clean and very popular with the locals, so arrive early at meal times. Paneerdishes, good-value thalis and pizza. Madhur Milan Cafe, Dashaswamedh Road, just past Vishwanatha Lane. Cheap and very popular with locals. Good for samosas, sweets and kacho-reasonable prices.
Ayyar’s Cafe, Dashaswamedh Road. At the back of a shopping arcade, a small, cheap cafe serving south Indian food, including masala dosas, filter coffee and delicious milk drinks. Bread of Life Bakery, B3/322 Shivala. Bakery providing brown bread, cinnamon rolls, muffins aid confectionery, with a small clean restaurant serving Western food such as tuna burger and creme caramel. Its not cheap at around Rs200 a head, but it’s good for a splurge and the profits go to charity.
El Parador, Maldahia Road. Round the corner from the Tourist Bungalow. Remarkable menu ranging from Mexican to Italian, with good pasta, chocolate cake and pancakes. Popular with travellers but not cheap.
Ganga Fuji, D5/8 KalikaGali, near Vishwanatha, Dashaswamedh. Odd name for a pleasant little cafe serving multi-cuisine and with live classical Indian music in the evenings. Kamesh Hut Garden Restaurant, C27/111 Poonam, Hotel Pradeep, Jagatganj. Good though expensive Mughlai food served in a comfortable environment.
Sindhi, Bhelupur Thana. One of Varanasi’s most popular restaurants,! .5km from Godaulia. The rickshaw ride (Rs5-10) is rewarded by excellent veg food.
Temple, Hotel Ganges, Bank of Baroda Building, Dashaswamedh Road. Familiar menu with balcony tables overlooking the busy main drag. Vaatika,Asi Ghat. A leafy terrace right on the ghat serving good pizza to travellers.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Ramnagar in Eastern UP
The residence of the Maharaja of Varanasi, Ramnagar Fort looks down upon the Ganges not far south of the Asi Ghat. The best views of the fortifications -especially impressive in late afternoon - are to be had from the other side of the river, which is reached by a road heading south from the BHU area and over a rickety pontoon bridge. During the monsoon the bridge is dismantled and replaced by a ferry, still preferable to the long main road that crosses the main Malaviya bridge in the north before heading down the eastern bank of the river. It
Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
The residence of the Maharaja of Varanasi, Ramnagar Fort looks down upon the Ganges not far south of the Asi Ghat. The best views of the fortifications -especially impressive in late afternoon - are to be had from the other side of the river, which is reached by a road heading south from the BHU area and over a rickety pontoon bridge. During the monsoon the bridge is dismantled and replaced by a ferry, still preferable to the long main road that crosses the main Malaviya bridge in the north before heading down the eastern bank of the river. It
The rest of the city of Varanasi in the Eastern
Varanasi holds a few other sites of interest, especially in the area south of Godaulia, just beyond Asi Ghat. The Durga Temple here, and the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum of Benares Hindu University (BHU) are easily accessible, while just across the river, Ramnagar and its impressive fort continue to play an important role in the life of the city.
Accommodation and eating in Eastern Madhya Pradesh
Most of Bandhavgarh s new and established hotels, all of which are in Tala, cater for travellers on a higher budget, and offer "jungle-plan" prices - all-inclusive 24hr deals including meals and two Jeep safaris per person. However, there are also a few budget lodges and mid-priced hotels. The only option for eating outside your hotel is at one of the friendly, cheap dhabas on the main road.
Getting to and from Corbett National Park at Uttaranchal
Ramnagar is served by frequent buses to and from Nainital and Ranikhet, 112km north. Buses arrive every halt-hour or so after the eight-hour trip from Delhi; Delhi Transport Corporation run a semi-deluxe service (Rs90), and most of the alternatives are pretty basic. The only direct train to Delhi leaves it 8pm and arrives at 6.30am, with interminable stops along the way. For faster trams and connections to other parts change at Moradabad. The nearest airport, at Pantnagar, 80km southeast, is rarely used. The closest of the various gates into the park, lkm from central Kamnagar, is Amdanda on the road to
Corbett National Park at Ramnagar northeast in Delhi and southwest of Nainital in Uttaranchal
Corbett National Park, based at Ramnagar. 250km northeast of Delhi and 63km southwest of Nainital, is one of India's premier wildlife reserves. Established in 1936 by Jim Corbett among others, as the Hailey National Park, India's first, and later renamed in his honour, it is one of Himalayan India's hist expanses of wilderness. Almost the entire 521-square-kilometre park, spread over the foothills of Kumaon, is sheltered by a buffer zone of mixed deciduous and giant sal forests, which provide impenetrable cover for wildlife. Most of the Core Area of 330 square kilometres at its heart remains out of hounds, and
Eating in Mumbai
In keeping with its cosmopolitan credentials, Mumbai (and Colaba above all) is crammed with interesting eating places, whether you fancy splashing out on a buffet lunch-with-a-view from a flashy five-star revolving restaurant, or simply tucking into piping-hot roti kebab by gaslight in the street.
Eastern Andhra Pradesh
Perhaps India's least visited area, eastern Andhra Pradesh is sandwiched between the Bay of Bengal in the east and the red soil and high peaks of the Eastern Ghats in the north. Its one architectural attraction is the ancient Buddhist site of Amaravati, near the city of Vijayawada, whose sprinkling of historic temples is far overshadowed by impersonal, modern buildings. Some 350 km north, the major port of Vishakhapatnam is not as grim as it first seems, but it's not a place to linger long. For anyone with a strong desire to explore, however, pockets of natural beauty along the
Shopping for Ramnagar in Eastern UP
With hustlers and rickshaw drivers keen to drag tourists into shops offering commission, shopping in Varanasi can be a nightmare — but it's worth seeking out the city's rich silk-weaving and brasswork. The best areas to browse are the Thatheri Bazaar (for brass), or Jnana Vapi and the Vishwanatha Gah with its Temple Bazaar (for silk brocade and jewellery). State-run emporia in Godaulia, Lahurabir and the Chowk - the three UP Handlooms outlets at Lahurabir, Nadesar and Neechi Bag, and Mahatex in Godaulia - offer fixed prices and assured quality. Housed in a former palace opposite the Taj Hotel in
Thripunitra Eating in Kerala
Unusually for Keralan cities, Kochi offers a wide choice for eating out, from the delicious fresh-cooked fish by the Chinese fishing nets at Fort Cochin, to the sophistication of the Bmntori Boatyard. Between the two extremes, various popular, modest places in Ernakulam serve real Keralan food. The ferries run all evening, and so it is possible to enjoy a meal on one of the more atmospheric islands before heading back to Ernakulam at about 9pm.
Shopping at Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
With hustlers and rickshaw drivers keen to drag tourists into shops offering commission, shopping in Varanasi can be a nightmare — but it's worth seeking out the city's rich silk-weaving and brasswork. The best areas to browse are the Thither Bazaar (for brass), or Jnana Vapi and the Vishwanatha Gah with its Temple Bazaar (for silk brocade and jewellery). State-run emporia in Godaulia, Lahurabir and the Chowk - the three UP Handlooms outlets at Lahurabir, Nadesar and Neechi Bag, and Mahatex in Godaulia - offer fixed prices and assured quality. Housed in a former palace opposite the Taj Hotel in
Eating to Rameshwaram in Central Tamil Nadu
Eating in Rameshwaram is more about survival than delighting the taste buds. Most places serve up fairly unexciting "meals". Arya Bhavan and Kumbakonam, W Car Street. Both places are run by the same family and dish up standard, inexpensive veg “meals”. Ashok Bhavan, W Car Street. Offers cheap, regional varieties of thalis. TTDC Hotel Tamil Nadu, near the beach. Gigantic, noisy, high-ceilinged glasshouse near the sea, serving good south Indian snacks and "meals:: - many items on the menu are unavailable, however.
Details of Eastern UP
Flowing beyond Allahabad across the plains of EASTERN UP, the Ganges turns sharply north at Chunar and traces a great arc through ancient Varanasi. Even before the Hindus declared this to be the most sacred spot on earth, it stood at the centre of die Buddhist universe, linked by trading routes from Rajgir in Bihar to Mathura near Delhi. It was on the outskirts of Varanasi, at the deer park at Sarnath, that the Buddha delivered his first sermon. North ofVaranasi, the much-travelled road to Nepal passes through the large administrative town of Gorakhpur, not far from Kushinagar, where the
Eating to the Bikaner in Rajasthan
Most visitors eat at their hotels or guesthouses while in Bikaner. If you fancy eating out, try Harasar Haveti, which is a popular meeting place for Western travellers and has the best rooftop views. Amber Station Road, A cleaner than average (although somewhat dingy) thali house that's popular with Westerners. Full veg menu and refreshing masala chai. Harasar Haveli, near Kami Singh Stadium. Open-air rooftop terrace restaurant with panoramic views, top landoori and non-veg Mughlai food and cold beers. Joshi, Station Road. The most salubrious of the eating places near the station. Filling, cheap rice-plate meals and arguably the town's best-value thalis,
Travel details for Uttaranchal
Trains Haridwar to: Calcutta (1 daily; 33hr); Dehra Dun (8 daily; 2hr); Delhi (4 daily: 4hr 30min-8hr); Mumbai (1 daily; 40hr); Katfigodam (3 daily: 4lir 30min-8hr); Rishikesh (2 daily; 30min). Kathgodam (railhead 3hr from Naimtal) to: Calcutta (1 daily; 4Dhr); Delhi (2 daily: 8hrl. Buses Almora to: Nainital (4 daily; 3hr); Delhi (2 daily;11hr). Dehra Dun to: Delhi (6 daily; 8hr); Kullu/Manali (1daily; 14hr): Mussoorie (every 30min; 1hr): Nainital(1 daily; 11hr); Rishikesh (every 30min; Ihr 30mm) Haridwar to: Dehra Dun (hourly: 1hr 15min); Delhi (4-6 daily; 5-6hr); Rishikesh (20 daily; 30min). Mussoorie to: Dehra Dun (every 30min; 1hr); Delhi (2 daily; 9hr); Haridwar (every 30min;
Eating in Orissa
Eating out in Bhubaneswar is basically limited to a choice between the predictable five-star food dished up in the a/c comfort of places such as the Sishmo, or the cheap and chilliful south Indian dishes served in the rather less salubrious cafes such as the Vineeth or the Swosti; both are opposite the railway station and open for breakfast. The one or two restaurants that make an effort to include traditional Orissan cuisine on their menus are worth seeking out (you will have to order at least eight hours in advance); seafood dishes combining prawns or delicate pomfret (a white
Eating of Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
Most of the old city cafes are veg, and alcohol is not tolerated, but the newer Cantonment area is less constrained by religious mores, and some of the more expensive hotels have bars. After a trip on the boats in the early morning, try kachori, savoury deep-fried pastry bread, a traditional snack found m the old city next to the ghats — but avoid the chai stalls here as the cups are washed in the river. Varanasi is also renowned for its sweets and paati (betel leaf). Bhang, a-.tent form of cannabis, sometimes mixed in lassis, is available from government-licensed
Eating from the Kanpur in Central UP
Few of the high-street eating places can be recommended, but several of Kanpur's better hotels such as the Landmark and the Meghdoot have good restaurants. Budhsen, Virhana Road, Nayaganj. A popular restaurant with an adjacent sweetshop which, along with the posh Haveli. is one of several options on this busy and central shopping street. Kailash Misthan Bhandar, GT Road, Gumti 5. The best of a couple of roadside cafes near Moti Jheel, serving snacks such as dosas to locals who come here to take the evening air. Shanghai, the Mall. In the centre of town, popular with well-heeled locals, many of whom
Eating of Kumbakonam in Central Tamil Nadu
There's nothing very exciting about eating out in Kumbakonam, and most visitors stick to their hotel restaurant. For a change of scene, though, a few places stand out. Archana Big Bazaar Street. Right in the thick of the market. Popular among shoppers for its good-value south Indian "meals", and great uttapams, although it can get hot and stuffy inside, Foreigners appear to cause quite a stir here, but are made very welcome. Ariya Bavan TSR Big Street. Convenient if you're staying in VPR/Siva two doors down, and a dependable all-rounder, serving the usual south Indian menu, with tasty biriyani, and piping hot
Accommodation and eating in Ranchi
Most of Ranchi's hotels are along, or just off, the long Main Road. If you'd rather not eat in your hotel, Friends Restaurant, Station Road, is a cheap and basic cafe serving south Indian snacks, while Suttor, on Club Road, is a good multi-cuisine restaurant. One of the best places is Kaveri, Church Complex, Main Road, a very reasonably priced vegetarian restaurant despite its upmarket ambience, while Krishna, downstairs, is a bit cheaper.The Maharaja Chinese restaurant also serves good food. Embassy, Station Road. One of the better budget hotels along this stretch; reasonably clean with attached baths. Highland Inn, Old Hazaribagh