India Travel
Eating of Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
Most of the old city cafes are veg, and alcohol is not tolerated, but the newer Cantonment area is less constrained by religious mores, and some of the more expensive hotels have bars. After a trip on the boats in the early morning, try kachori, savoury deep-fried pastry bread, a traditional snack found m the old city next to the ghats — but avoid the chai stalls here as the cups are washed in the river. Varanasi is also renowned for its sweets and paati (betel leaf). Bhang, a-.tent form of cannabis, sometimes mixed in lassis, is available from government-licensed shops, along with weak weed and ropey opium.
Stomach disorders are a common phenomenon in Varanasi, so stick to bot-rled or treated water and be careful when choosing where you eat. In December 1998, two young Irish travellers died from food poisoning here, j allegations have been made suggesting that they were .victims of a bizarre scam involving unscrupulous restaurateurs and medical staff poisoning customers in order to claim medical costs from the victim’s insurance company.
For more details on a similar scam in Agra, see the box on p.300. There are some excellent restaurants around, and your hotel restaurant (if it has one) should be fairly safe if only because an entire guesthouse full of dying travellers may arouse suspicion. The Vishnu Rest House on Pandey Ghat does excellent chalis; the Shanti has an extensive menu including a host of Israeli food; and the Yogi Lodge near Vishwanatha temple must have the cleanest kitchen in the old city - all the travellers’ favourites but not a lot of spice. Amrapali, next to the Tourist Bungalow, Parade Jagatganj near the Hotel Pradeep. Indian, Chinese Kothi, Cantonment. Smart a/c restaurant with very and Continental food served either indoors or in their pleasant garden. Reasonable rates. Keshari, off Dashaswamedh Road, down a small alley beyond the Bank of Baroda building as you approach from the river. Cool clean and very popular with the locals, so arrive early at meal times. Paneerdishes, good-value thalis and pizza. Madhur Milan Cafe, Dashaswamedh Road, just past Vishwanatha Lane. Cheap and very popular with locals. Good for samosas, sweets and kacho-reasonable prices.
Ayyar’s Cafe, Dashaswamedh Road. At the back of a shopping arcade, a small, cheap cafe serving south Indian food, including masala dosas, filter coffee and delicious milk drinks.
Bread of Life Bakery, B3/322 Shivala. Bakery providing brown bread, cinnamon rolls, muffins aid confectionery, with a small clean restaurant serving Western food such as tuna burger and creme caramel. Its not cheap at around Rs200 a head, but it’s good for a splurge and the profits go to charity.
El Parador, Maldahia Road. Round the corner from the Tourist Bungalow. Remarkable menu ranging from Mexican to Italian, with good pasta, chocolate cake and pancakes. Popular with travellers but not cheap.
Ganga Fuji, D5/8 Kalika Gali, near Vishwanatha, Dashaswamedh. Odd name for a pleasant little cafe serving multi-cuisine and with live classical Indian music in the evenings. Kamesh Hut Garden Restaurant, C27/111
Poonam, Hotel Pradeep, Jagatganj. Good though expensive Mughlai food served in a comfortable environment.
Sindhi, Bhelpuri Thana. One of Varanasi’s most popular restaurants,! .5km from Godaulia. The rickshaw ride (Rs5-10) is rewarded by excellent veg food.
Temple, Hotel Ganges, Bank of Baroda Building, Dashaswamedh Road. Familiar menu with balcony tables overlooking the busy main drag. Vaatika, Asi Ghat. A leafy terrace right on the ghat serving good pizza to travellers.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
The rest of the city of Varanasi in the Eastern
Varanasi holds a few other sites of interest, especially in the area south of Godaulia, just beyond Asi Ghat. The Durga Temple here, and the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum of Benares Hindu University (BHU) are easily accessible, while just across the river, Ramnagar and its impressive fort continue to play an important role in the life of the city.
Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
The residence of the Maharaja of Varanasi, Ramnagar Fort looks down upon the Ganges not far south of the Asi Ghat. The best views of the fortifications -especially impressive in late afternoon - are to be had from the other side of the river, which is reached by a road heading south from the BHU area and over a rickety pontoon bridge. During the monsoon the bridge is dismantled and replaced by a ferry, still preferable to the long main road that crosses the main Malaviya bridge in the north before heading down the eastern bank of the river. It
Ramnagar in Eastern UP
The residence of the Maharaja of Varanasi, Ramnagar Fort looks down upon the Ganges not far south of the Asi Ghat. The best views of the fortifications -especially impressive in late afternoon - are to be had from the other side of the river, which is reached by a road heading south from the BHU area and over a rickety pontoon bridge. During the monsoon the bridge is dismantled and replaced by a ferry, still preferable to the long main road that crosses the main Malaviya bridge in the north before heading down the eastern bank of the river. It
Details of Eastern UP
Flowing beyond Allahabad across the plains of EASTERN UP, the Ganges turns sharply north at Chunar and traces a great arc through ancient Varanasi. Even before the Hindus declared this to be the most sacred spot on earth, it stood at the centre of die Buddhist universe, linked by trading routes from Rajgir in Bihar to Mathura near Delhi. It was on the outskirts of Varanasi, at the deer park at Sarnath, that the Buddha delivered his first sermon. North ofVaranasi, the much-travelled road to Nepal passes through the large administrative town of Gorakhpur, not far from Kushinagar, where the
Arrival, information and city transport in the Varanasi at Eastern UP
An airport bus (Rs25) connects with flights landing at Babatpur Airport, 22km northwest of the city, and goes to the Indian Airlines office, via the Government of India Tourist Office, both in the Cantonment area. Taxis charge around Rs20D-250 for the same journey. Varanasi lies on the main east-west axis between Delhi and Calcutta, and is actually served by two stations: Varanasi Cantonment in the town itself, and Mughal Sarai, 17km out of town. Varanasi Cantonment is the most conveniently located, but depending on where you are travelling from, you may find yourself using the Mughal Sarai line. There are retiring
Shopping at Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
With hustlers and rickshaw drivers keen to drag tourists into shops offering commission, shopping in Varanasi can be a nightmare — but it's worth seeking out the city's rich silk-weaving and brasswork. The best areas to browse are the Thither Bazaar (for brass), or Jnana Vapi and the Vishwanatha Gah with its Temple Bazaar (for silk brocade and jewellery). State-run emporia in Godaulia, Lahurabir and the Chowk - the three UP Handlooms outlets at Lahurabir, Nadesar and Neechi Bag, and Mahatex in Godaulia - offer fixed prices and assured quality. Housed in a former palace opposite the Taj Hotel in
City transport of the Varanasi in the Eastern UP
Cycle rickshaws are the easiest way to get around Varanasi, and often defy death and traffic jams by cycling up the wrong side of the road; a ride from Godaulia to Cantonment railway station costs Rs10-15. Auto-rickshaws should be faster but due to the volume of traffic are rarely quicker for short rides across town. Godaulia to the railway station should be Rs25. Taxis and an inadequate and overcrowded city bus system offer further options. Shared auto-rickshaws or tempos are a cheap and efficient alternative for the trip to Sarnath.
Accommodation and eating in Eastern Madhya Pradesh
Most of Bandhavgarh s new and established hotels, all of which are in Tala, cater for travellers on a higher budget, and offer "jungle-plan" prices - all-inclusive 24hr deals including meals and two Jeep safaris per person. However, there are also a few budget lodges and mid-priced hotels. The only option for eating outside your hotel is at one of the friendly, cheap dhabas on the main road.
Getting to and from Corbett National Park at Uttaranchal
Ramnagar is served by frequent buses to and from Nainital and Ranikhet, 112km north. Buses arrive every halt-hour or so after the eight-hour trip from Delhi; Delhi Transport Corporation run a semi-deluxe service (Rs90), and most of the alternatives are pretty basic. The only direct train to Delhi leaves it 8pm and arrives at 6.30am, with interminable stops along the way. For faster trams and connections to other parts change at Moradabad. The nearest airport, at Pantnagar, 80km southeast, is rarely used. The closest of the various gates into the park, lkm from central Kamnagar, is Amdanda on the road to
Varanasi in the Eastern UP
The great Hindu city of VARANASI, also known as Banaras or Benares, stretches along the crescent of the River Ganges, its waterfront dominated by long flights of stone steps known as ghats, literally "landings", where thousands of pilgrims and residents come for their daily ritual ablutions. Known to the devout as Kashi, the Luminous - the City of Light, founded by Shiva -Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world. It has maintained its religious life since the sixth century BC in one continuous tradition, in part by remaining outside the mainstream of political activity and historical
Shopping for Ramnagar in Eastern UP
With hustlers and rickshaw drivers keen to drag tourists into shops offering commission, shopping in Varanasi can be a nightmare — but it's worth seeking out the city's rich silk-weaving and brasswork. The best areas to browse are the Thatheri Bazaar (for brass), or Jnana Vapi and the Vishwanatha Gah with its Temple Bazaar (for silk brocade and jewellery). State-run emporia in Godaulia, Lahurabir and the Chowk - the three UP Handlooms outlets at Lahurabir, Nadesar and Neechi Bag, and Mahatex in Godaulia - offer fixed prices and assured quality. Housed in a former palace opposite the Taj Hotel in
Sarnath north of Varanasi at the Eastern UP
SARNATH, 10km north of Varanasi, is a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists, and has also become popular with day-tnppers from Varanasi who picnic among its ruins and parklands. It was in a quiet grove here, in the sixth century BC, that Siddhartha Gautama - who came to be known as the Buddha, the "Awakened One" - gave his first sermon, and set in morion die Wheel of Law, the Dhannachaha. During the rainy season, when the Buddha and his followers sought respite from their round of itinerant teaching, they would retire to Sarnath. Also known as Rishipatana, the place of
Practicalities of Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh
There are three bus stands - the main Railway bus stand, 1km north of the centre, for buses from the Nepalese border at Sonauli and Kushinagar; the Kacheri bus stand, lkm southwest of the station, for services from Allahabad, Lucknow and Varanasi; and the main bus stand for Varanasi (6hr) and Nepal-Varanasi buses, at Pedleyganj, 2km southeast of the station. Major daily trains servicing Gorakhpur include the fast Vaishali Express #2553 to Lucknow and Delhi (5.10pm) and the Gorakhpur-Dadar Express #1028 for Mumbai via Varanasi (5am); among trains to Varanasi (6hr) are the fast Kashi Express #1028 (5am) and the Chauri-Chaura
Corbett National Park at Ramnagar northeast in Delhi and southwest of Nainital in Uttaranchal
Corbett National Park, based at Ramnagar. 250km northeast of Delhi and 63km southwest of Nainital, is one of India's premier wildlife reserves. Established in 1936 by Jim Corbett among others, as the Hailey National Park, India's first, and later renamed in his honour, it is one of Himalayan India's hist expanses of wilderness. Almost the entire 521-square-kilometre park, spread over the foothills of Kumaon, is sheltered by a buffer zone of mixed deciduous and giant sal forests, which provide impenetrable cover for wildlife. Most of the Core Area of 330 square kilometres at its heart remains out of hounds, and
Moving on from Varanasi to the Eastern UP
Indian Airlines' daily flight to Kathmandu gets very heavily booked in winter; there are two daily flights to Delhi, one via Khajuraho and Agra and two to Mumbai. Sahara India Airlines fly daily from Varanasi to Delhi, and Patna, and from Patna to Lucknow and Mumbai. Allow at least ninety minutes from the Old City to the airport due to gridlock. Most of the super-fast trains on the main east-west line between Delhi and Calcutta such as the Rajdhani, bypass Varanasi but stop at Mughal Sarai, an arduous 45 minutes away by road or a short train ride. Varanasi station has
Moving on from Varanasi in Eastern UP
Indian Airlines' daily flight to Kathmandu gets very heavily booked in winter; there are two daily flights to Delhi, one via Khajuraho and Agra and two to Mumbai. Sahara India Airlines fly daily from Varanasi to Delhi, and Patna, and from Patna to Lucknow and Mumbai. Allow at least ninety minutes from the Old City to the airport due to gridlock. Most of the super-fast trains on the main east-west line between Delhi and Calcutta such as the Rajdhani, bypass Varanasi but stop at Mughal Sarai, an arduous 45 minutes away by road or a short train ride. Varanasi station has
Eating for Ramnagar in Eastern UP
Most of the old city cafes are veg, and alcohol is not tolerated, but the newer Cantonment area is less constrained by religious mores, and some of the more expensive hotels have bars. After a trip on the boats in the early morning, try kachori, savoury deep-fried pastry bread, a traditional snack found m the old city next to the ghats — but avoid the chai stalls here as the cups are washed in the river. Varanasi is also renowned for its sweets and paati (betel leaf). Bhang, a-.tent form of cannabis, sometimes mixed in lassis, is available from government-licensed
Travel details to Bihar and Jharkhand
Trains Gaya to: Allahabad (4 daily; 4hr 20min-6hr 30min); Calcutta (6 daily 6-9hr); Dehra Dun (1 daily; 26hr); Delhi (9 daily; 12-15hr); Haridwar (1 daily; 23hr|; Kalka (1 daily; 27hr); Lucknow (3 daily; 10-13hr); Mughal Sarai (13 daily; 3-5hr); Mumbai (1 daily: 31 hr); Patna (4 daily; 2hr 30min); Puri (3 weekly; 17-40hr); Ranchi (3 daily; 8hr 20min); Sasaram (10 daily; 1-3hr); Varanasi (3 daily; 4hr-5hr 30min). Patna to: Agra (1 daily; 17hr 35min); Allahabad (8 daily; 6-8hr); Calcutta (6 daily; 7hr 30min-12hr); Chennai (2 weekly; 44hr); Delhi (8 daily; 12-24hr); Gaya (4 daily; 2hr 30min); Guwahati (3 daily: 21-26hr); Lucknow (3
Eating in Mumbai
In keeping with its cosmopolitan credentials, Mumbai (and Colaba above all) is crammed with interesting eating places, whether you fancy splashing out on a buffet lunch-with-a-view from a flashy five-star revolving restaurant, or simply tucking into piping-hot roti kebab by gaslight in the street.
Listings form Ramnagar in Varanasi at the Eastern UP
Airlines Air India are in Hotel darks. Indian Airlines are behind the Hotel de Pans, Cantonment (Mon-Fri 10am-1pm & 2-5pm), and they also have an airport office. Sahara Airlines are at Mint House, opposite the Taj Hotel. Banks and exchange Most foreign-currency branches of the major banks are located in the Cantonment area. The State Bank of India behind Best Western Hotel, the Mall (Mon-Fri 1 Dam -2pm; Sat 10am-noon] will change travellers' cheques but doesn't advance cash on Visa cards. The Allahabad Bank is near Takshal Cinema. Most of the top hotels also have foreign exchange facilities. Down at Dashaswamedh,