India Travel
Getting good maps of India
Getting good maps of India, in India, can be difficult; the government - in an archaic suspicion of cartography - forbids the sale of detailed maps of border areas, which include the entire coastline. In theory, certain ; maps, especially detailed ones of border areas skirting Tibet and Pakistan, are illegal, so use them very discreetly. These maps are available outside India, and useful if you are going to be trekking in places like Ladakh, Spiti, Sikkim and Garhwal.
It makes sense to bring a basic map of India with you, such as Bartholomew’s 1:4,000,000 map of South Asia, which has coloured contours and serves as a reliable route map of the whole country; a handful of other publishers produce a similar map, including the Daily Telegraph World Series map of India; while the Lascelles map on the same scale is also good. Geocentre produces an excellent three-set map of India at a scale of 1:2,500,000, showing good road detail.
Nelles covers parts of the country with 1:1,500,000 regional maps. These are generally excellent, with colour contours, road distances, inset city plans and even the tiniest places marked, but cost a fortune if you buy the complete set. Their double-sided map of the Himalayas is useful for roads and planning and has some detail but is not sufficient as a trekking map. Ttk, a Chennai-based company, publishes basic state maps which are widely available in India, and in some specialized travel and map shops in the UK such as Stanfords; these are poorly drawn but useful for road distances. The Indian Railways map at the back of the publication Trains at a Glance is useful for planning railway journeys.
If you need larger-scale city maps than the ones we provide in this book - which are keyed to show recommended hotels and restaurants - you can sometimes get them from tourist offices. Both Ttk and the official Indian mapping organization, the Survey of India (Janpath Barracks A, New Delhi 110 001; ®011/332 2288), have town plans at scales of 1:10,000 and 1:50,000. Some of the city and regional maps they have for sale are grossly out of date.
As for trekking maps, the US Army Map Service produced maps in the 1960s which, with a scale ol 1:250,000, remain sufficiently accurate on topography, but are of course outdated on the latest road developments. Most other maps that you can buy are based on their work. Their maps of Kanchenjunga. Leh, Palampur (including Bara Bangal, Manali and Lahaul), Tso Moriri (including Tabo, Kaza and Kibber) and Chini (including Kinnaur and the Baspa valley) are some of the best you can get. One exception is the superb Swiss Stiftung ftir Alpine Forschunger map of the Sikkim Himalayas at a scale of 1:150,000.
The Survey of India, recognizing the competition, has come out with a version of the Sikkim map that is not particularly accurate. Leomann Maps (1 ;200,000) cover Srinagar, . Zanskar, West Ladakh, Leh and around, Dharamsala, Kulu with Lahaul and Spiti, Garhwal and Kumaon. These are not contour maps and are therefore better for planning and basic reference than as reliable trekking maps. The Survey of India publishes a rather poor 1:250,000 series for trekkers in the Uttar Pradesh Himalayas; they are simplified versions of their own infinitely more reliable maps, produced for the military, which it is absolutely impossible for an outsider to get hold of.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Book and map outlets in Canada
Open Air Books and Maps, 25 Toronto St, Toronto, ON M5R 2C1 416/363-0719. Ulysses Travel Bookshop, 4176 St-Denis, Montreal 514/843-9447. World of Maps, 1235 Wellington St. Ottawa. ON K1Y3A3 613/724-6776, World Wide Books and Maps, 552 Seymour St, Vancouver, BC V6B 3J5 604/687-3320
Book and map outlets in Australia and New Zealand
Mapland, 372 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, VIC3000 03/9670 4383 The Map Shop 16a Peel St, Adelaide. SA 500008/8231 2033 Perth Map Centre 884 Hay St, Perth, WA 6000308/9322 5733 Speciality Maps 58 Albert St. Auckland 3)09/307 2217 Travel Bookshop Shop 3,175 Liverpool St, Sydney, NSW 2000 302/9261 8200 Worldwide Maps and Guides 187 George St. Brisbane, OLD 4000 07/3221 4330 Mapworld, 173 Gloucester Street, Chnstchurch 303/374 5399, fax 03/374 5633,
Treks around Manali and the Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh
The Kullu Valley's spectacular alpine scenery and proximity to some of HP's most dramatic and accessible peaks make it perfect for trekking. The trails are long and steep, but more than repay the effort with superb views, varied flora and the chance visit remote hill stations. Within striking distance of several major trailheads. Manali is the most popular place to begin and end treks. While package deals offered by the town's many agencies can save time and energy, it is relatively easy to organize your own trip with maps and advice from the Tourist Office and Mountaineering Institute at the bottom
Information, websites and maps
The Indian government maintains a number of tourist offices abroad, where you can pick up a range of pamphlets. Their main purpose is to advertise rather than inform, but they can be extremely helpful and knowledgeable. Other sources of information include travel agents (who are in business for themselves, so their advice may not always be totally unbiased), and the Indian Railways representatives listed. Inside India, both national and local governments run tourist information offices, providing general travel advice and handing out an array of printed material, from city maps to glossy leaflets on specific destinations. The Indian government's tourist department,
Books in Calcutta
The month-long Calcutta Book Fair, held on the Maidan near Park Street in January and February, is now among the biggest of its kind in the country, and provides a good opportunity to pick up books at a discount. Classical Books, Middleton Row. Small, friendly and well worth a browse. Dey Bros. B47 New Market. One of several bookshops in this part of the market selling popular books on India and a selection of novels. Family Book Shop, 1A Park St. On the Chowringhee end of Park Street, this place is small but crammed full of books. Landmark, Emami Shoppers City, 3
Gir National Park in Gujarat
The Asiatic lion which, thanks to hunting, forest-cutting and poaching, has been extinct in the rest of India since the 1880s, now survives in the wild in just 1150 square kilometres of the gently undulating Gir Forest. Gir National Park (mid-Oct or Nov to mid-June daily 7-11 am & 3-5.30pm), entered from Sasan Gir. 60km southeast of Junagadh and 45km northeast of Veraval, holds almost three hundred Asiatic lions in its 260 square kilometres. They share the land with Maldhari cattle-breeders, whose main source of income is buffalo milk. Many families have been relocated outside the sanctuary, but those who
Information of Varanasi in Eastern UP
The main UPTDC tourist office is at their Tourist Bungalow on Parade Komi) though their tourist information counter inside the railway station is far more efficient and on the ball - the boss, Uma Shankar, seems to regard the protection of tourists as a personal crusade. Both book accommodation and provide free maps. The shabby Bihar Government Tourist Office at Englishia Market, Slier Shah Suri Marg. Cantonment, is useful if you're heading east towards the Buddhist centres. The Government of India Tourist Office languishes in the leafy suburbs of the Cantonment, a long way from the main attractions of the old
Matheran Practicalities in Southern Maharashtra
To reach Matheran by train, you must first get to Neral Junction, 21km away. This is easily done by faking the hourly suburban train from Mumbai (CST) to Kargat, which stops at Neral (2hr 15miti; Rsl33). Otherwise, the daily Deccan Express #1007 (8.45am) or Sahyadri Express #7307 (6.35am) are both considerably quicker and also leave from CST. From Pune (2-3br), the 9.10am Sahyadri Express #7304 stops at Neral. If you miss this, travel to Karjat and pick up the suburban service to Mumbai. Narrow-gauge trains up from Neral to Matheran (2hr; Rs24) depart at 8.40am, 11am and 5pm (also 4.15pm, April
Surat Arrival and information in Gujarat
Surat, on the main line from Ahmedabad to Mumbai, has very good train connections, and is served by regular buses from within Gujarat and interstate. Both stations are on the eastern edge of the city centre, with the massive Ring Road stretching out leftwards from the major junction to your left as you come out of the railway station, or to your right as you come out of the bus station. Private buses tend to leave you about 50m from the railway station, soignore rickshaw-wallahs who offer to take you there as you stagger sleepily off the overnight bus. The
Information of Mumbai
The best source of information in Mumbai is the excellent Government of India tourist office (Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm. Sat 8.30am-2pm; 022/203 3144) at 123 M Karve Rd, opposite Churchgate station's east exit. The staff here are exceptionally helpful and hand out a wide range of leaflets, maps and brochures both on Mumbai and the rest of the country. There are also 24hr tourist information counters at Sahar International (022/832 5331) and Santa Cruz (022/615 9320) airports. Maharashtra State Tourism Development Corporation Ltd (MTDC) main office, on Madam Cama Road (Mon-Sat 8.30am-7pm; 022/202 6731), opposite the LIC Building in Nariman Point, sells tickets
Practicalities East of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Chittaurgarh's railway station is in the western corner of the city. From here ' it's about 2km north to the Roadways (aka "Kothwali") bus stand on the west bank of the Ghambiri, and a further 2km east to the base of the fort. RTDC's forlorn tourist office, where you can obtain free maps of the town (but little' else), stands just north of the railway station on Station Road (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm). The Head Post Office (Mon-Sat 10am-6pm) is on Shri Gurukul Road near the Pratap Palace Hotel. Tours of the fort are most easily made by rickshaw (Rs75-100), complete with jangly pop
Amrit Book Co, 21 N-Block, Connaught Place in Delhi
Vast slock of novels and books on history, philosophy and religion. Bahri & Sons, Khan Market. Legendary shop with books piled to the ceiling, covering every possible subject; if you find the cramped shop confusing ask one of the helpful assistants. Bahrf's will order books and ship them abroad and are reliable. The Bookshop, Khan Market. Small but good selection in this popular market renowned for its bookshops, with all the latest titles and a comprehensive section on Indian literature, religion and travel. Book Mark, A'2 Ring Road. South Extension 1. A modem bookshop with a growing reputation and a varied
Information in Delhi
There are reasonably helpful tourist offices at the inCernational and domestic air por Cs, railway stations and bus tetminals, and the Government of India tourist office at 88 Janpath, just south of Connaught Place (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-4.30pm), is a good place to pick up information on Delhi's sites, city tours, shopping, cultural events and accommodation. They also provide free maps of che city; you'll find the same ones sold in the streets at negotiable prices.The information counter at the less busy DTTDC (Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation) office, Bombay Life Building, Middle Circle (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-lpm; )
Pachmarhi hikes in Madhya Pradesh
The web of toresc tracks and pilgrim trails that thread their way around Fachmarhi's widely dispersed archeological and religious sites make for excellent walking, but few, if any, routes are marked in English. By far the bet maps and trekking information are available at the Tola Trekking Club (07578/52256). run by Vinay Sahu from Hotel Saket. This very reliable outfit will organize both day (Rsl50 per persoa extra for Jeep hire to trailheads) and overnight treks (Rs250), where you camp in the adivasi villages hidden in the hills. The guides in the Tola Trekking Club are all young tribal men
Munnar Practicalities in Kerala
Munnar can be reached by bus trom Kochi, Kottayam, Kumily and Madurai, either directly or with a change at Tehni. State-run and private services pull into the stand in the bazaar at the north end of town, near the river confluence and Tata headquarters. For most hotels you should ask to be dropped off an Old Munnar, 2km south of the centre, near the ineffectual DTPC tourist office (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0486/530679). If you need information on transport, accommodation and day-trips, including to Eravikulam, seek out the helpful Joseph type, who runs the Free Tourist
Practicalities to the Manipur in the Northeast
State buses arrive at the stand next to the Polo Ground and private buses at their individual offices, most of which are along MG Avenue, 200m north of Khwairamband Bazaar. Manipur's tourist office (Mon-Sat 9.30am—5pm, Oct-March 4.30pm; closed 2nd Sat of month is based at Hotel Imphal north of the palace on the main Dimapur road. The ITDC tourist office, on Jail Road (Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm), provides information and maps. The GPO (Mon-Sat 9am—5pm) is on Secretariat Road, at the southern end of the palace complex. Individual travellers can get permits endorsed at the Foreigners Registration Office, along from the GPO.
Keoladeo National Park Practicalities East of Jaipur in Rajasthan
Cycle rickshaws are the main form of transport within the city, but fares for he long haul in and out of town soon mount up, and it makes sense to rent a bicycle, either from your hotel (around Rs35/day) or the shop on NH-11 outside the Spoonbill Restaurant. If you need to change money, head for the State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur. Binarayan Gate (Mon-Fn 10am-2pm, Sat 10am—noon). Bharatpur's bus stand is in the west of town near Anah Gate, just off NH-11. If you're arriving from Fatehpur Sikri, get off well before, when the bus stops at the crossroads
Thiruvananthapuram Information and tours in Kerala
All the tourist offices at the airport are open during flight times. The Government of India's counter (0471/501498) offers general information regarding Kerala and the adjacent states, while the Government of Kerala has two counters, one at the domestic terminal (0471/501085) and the other at the internacion.il terminal (0471/502298), offering Kerala-specific information including, for example, on backwater cruises. The Government of Kerala also has an office in the main block at the Thampanoor bus stand (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0471/327224) which is good for general information and maps and sells tickets for backwater cruises between Kollam and Alappuzha. They have another counter
Arrival, information and orientation of Kodaikanal in Central Tamil Nadu
The buses from Madurai and Dindigul that climb the spectacular road up the steep hillside to Kodai from the plains below pull in at the stand in the centre of town. Unless you're coming from as far as Chennai or Tiruchirapalli, the bus is much more convenient than the train: the nearest railhead. Kodaikanal Road - also connected to Dindigul (30min) and Madurai (50min) is three hours away by bus. Note, too, that the road from Palani is by tar the most spectacular approach, although the least travelled (except during the monsoons when the other is invariably blocked). If you
Sawai Madhopur and Ranthambore National Park Practicalities East of Jaipur in Rajasthan
Sawai Madhopur is served by trains on the main Mumbai-Delhi line, and is thus easily accessible from Bharatpur, Agra, Jaipur and Delhi, as well as destinations further south, such as Kota. The train tracks divide the main residential side of town to the north from the industrial zone, known as Sawai Madhopur City, to the south (where you arrive when travelling from Shivpuri). The station is midway between the two, close to the bus stand and bustling Bazriya market area, near the cheapest lodges. About 100m southwest along the train lines (toward1; Mumbai and Jaipur) is a flyover carrying the