India Travel
Kausani and around northwest of Almora in Uttaranchal
Spreading from east to west along a narrow pine-covered ridge, 52km northwest of Almora, the village of KAUSANI boasts a spectacular Himalayan panorama and as a result has become a popular resort. It’s a simple day-trip from Almora, though as the peaks - Nanda Choti, Trisul, Nanda Devi and Panchol - are at their best at dawn and dusk, its worth staying overnight.There are several ashrams, including one that once housed Mahatma Gandhi, who walked here in 1929, thirty years before the road came through. Gandhi-ism continues to be a major influence in these hills and his symbol of self-reliance, the spinning wheel, is still used in homes in the area.There are numerous possibilities for short day-hikes in the woods and valleys around Kausani, as well as longer excursions to the important pilgrimage sues of Baijnath and Bageshwar.
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Practicalities of Kausani in Uttaranchal
Kausani is well connected by bus to Almora and Ranikhet, and Bageshwar and Gwaldam further north. The tourist scene is growing and a number of new hotels and restaurants have sprung up in recent years to cater for the very seasonal demand. The fanciest place to eat is the Hill Queen, a mid-priced but very good-value multi-cuisine restaurant below the Anashakti Ashram. The owner also serves as the unofficial tourist officer and is a mine of information about the area. The new Ashok and Sunrise restaurants nearby serve inexpensive multi-cuisine dishes.
Baijnath and Bageshwar between Kausani in Uttaranchal
BAIJNATH is halfway between Kausani. 20km southeast, and Gwaldam to the west. The road (served by occasional buses) drops down to a broad valley and to eleventh-century stone temples, standing at a bend in a beautiful river. This was once an important town of the Katyurs, who ruled much of Garhwal and Kumaon; now it's more like a park. Unusually, the main temple is devoted to Parvati, the consort of Shiva, rather than Shiva himself; its 1.5-metre image of the goddess is one of the few in the complex to have withstood the ravages of time. The only amenities are
Travel details for Uttaranchal
Trains Haridwar to: Calcutta (1 daily; 33hr); Dehra Dun (8 daily; 2hr); Delhi (4 daily: 4hr 30min-8hr); Mumbai (1 daily; 40hr); Katfigodam (3 daily: 4lir 30min-8hr); Rishikesh (2 daily; 30min). Kathgodam (railhead 3hr from Naimtal) to: Calcutta (1 daily; 4Dhr); Delhi (2 daily: 8hrl. Buses Almora to: Nainital (4 daily; 3hr); Delhi (2 daily;11hr). Dehra Dun to: Delhi (6 daily; 8hr); Kullu/Manali (1daily; 14hr): Mussoorie (every 30min; 1hr): Nainital(1 daily; 11hr); Rishikesh (every 30min; Ihr 30mm) Haridwar to: Dehra Dun (hourly: 1hr 15min); Delhi (4-6 daily; 5-6hr); Rishikesh (20 daily; 30min). Mussoorie to: Dehra Dun (every 30min; 1hr); Delhi (2 daily; 9hr); Haridwar (every 30min;
Shaivite temple of Kumaon in Uttaranchal
The Shaivite temples of Kumaon, such as Jageshwar. Bhageshwar and Baijnath, do not attract the same fervour as their equivalents in Garhwal. Instead they remain frozen in time, undisturbed by the throngs from the plains. In fact, the Kumaon's comparative unholincss is probably an advantage as there is much less tourist traffic, so villages are largely unspoilt and trekking routes unfiltered. Hill towns like Almora, Ranikhet and Kausani have a charm of their own, with views towards the snows, while in Corbett National Park, southeast of the resort of Nainital, vast jungles continue to protect tiger and huge herds
Practicalities of Almora in Uttaranchal
Almora has regular bus connections with Nainital (3 daily; 3hr), Ranikhet (5 daily; 2hr 30m.in), Kathgodam, the nearest railhead (2 daily; 4hr), and Kausam (6 daily; 2hr 30min). Most buses use either of two adjacent stands on the Mall, which has a taxi stand close by if you're heading for distant accommodation, such as the Holiday Home. However, most hotels are within walking distance. Access to much of the centre, including the market area above the Mall, is restricted to pedestrians. Another bus stand at Dharanaula, on the other side of the market, is for buses to the interior of
Practicalities of Ranikhet at Uttaranchl
Buses from all over Kumaon, including the railhead at Kathgodam, 84km away, arrive at the bazaar, at cither of two bus stops. The KMOU stand, on the Haldwani road, is the base for buses to Haldwani (10-12 daily; 4hr), the nearest town to Kathgodam; the Kausani—Pithoragarh bus departs (2 or 3 daily; 4hr) from this stand; to get to Naimtal. change , Bhowali or take one of the three direct services (10am, Ham &. 4pm; 3hr).The Roadways (Almora) Bus stand, 500m on, is used by regular services to Almora (2hr) with shared Jeeps providing a crowded but slightly faster alternative.
Accommodation in Almora at Uttaranchal
Accommodation in Almora itself is largely centred along the Mall. However, it is also possible to go native in village houses in the region around Kasar Devi; enquire about places to rent at the chai shops in Kalimath nearby. Deodar Holiday-Inn, Sister Nivedita Cottage, the Mall 05962/31295. Home to Swami Vivekananda and his disciple Nivedita between 1890 and 1898. which time seems to have forgotten and where little has changed. The rooms are basic and the garden is tranquil with a log fire at night. Kallash, east end of the Mall, above the GPO 05962/30624. Quaint, brightly coloured but filthy
Accommodation of Kausani in Uttaranchal
The prices indicated are for the low season, but go up by fifty percent in high season (April 15-June 15 & Oct 1-Nov 15). Rooms with views are much more expensive than those without. Anashakti Ashram, above the Mall on Snow View Road. Guests prepared to observe ashram rules, such as not smoking, are welcome to stay at Gandhi's pleasant but spartan former ashram. A great place to watch the mountains blush and fade at sunset. No generator. KMVN Tourist Bungalow, 05962/45006. The usual tourist lodge atmosphere but it is at least secluded, and surrounded by pine forests. Himalaya Mount View,
Nainital north of Delhi at Uttaranchal
The dramatic crater lake of Nainital (tal means lake), set in a mountain hollow at an altitude of 1938rn, 277km north of Delhi, gives its name to the largest and most important town in Kumaon. Discovered for Europeans in 1841 by Mr Barron, a wealthy sugar merchant, NAINITAL swiftly became a popular escape from the summer heat of the lowlands, and continues to be one of India's main hill stations. Throughout the year, and especially between March and July, hordes of tourists and honeymooners pack the Mall, the promenade that links Mallital (head of the lake), the older colonial part of
Almora and around north of Nainital in Uttaranchal
ALMORA, 67km north of Nainital, is one of the rare Kumaoni towns that conspicuously predates the Raj, with its cobbled alleyways and wood and stone buildings. Founded by the Chand dynasty in 1560, and occupied successively by the Gurkhas and the British, it remains a major market town, and is considered the cultural capital of the region. Set at a pleasant altitude of 1646m on rambling ridges that look towards the inner Himalayan snows, Almora's peaceful environs have attracted an eclectic assortment of visitors over the years, such as SwamiVivekananda,Timothy Leary and the Tibetologist and author of The Way of
Eating from Almora in Uttaranchal
Cafes and restaurants are strung along the Mall, especially around the bazaar area at its northern end. There should be something for everybody. Locally grown and prepared Kumabri rice and black dhal are particularly delicious. Hotels such as the Savoy can produce a feast of Kumaoni dishes if given plenty of advance warning. Bansal Expresso Bar, Lala Bazaar. An Italian-style cafe, complete with marble-topped tables. Serves up the best coffee, chai and shakes in town; freshly made snacks are also available. Dolma, Kalimath, 5km west of the town. A cafe run by Tibetans that shows the locals how it's done. Located
The Town of Nainital in Uttaranchal
Most of the activity around the lake of Nainital takes place along the 1.5-kilo-metre-long Mall, a promenade of restaurants, hotels and shops selling souvenirs and jumpers. Cycle rickshaws charge a standard Rs5 to go from one end to the other. Basic boat rental starts at around Rs30 per hour out of season but can shoot up to Rs200 per hour in the summer; dinghies (or yacht, as they are locally called) arranged at the boat club on the northwest comer of the lake in Mallital, cost in the range of Rs75 per hour. You can join the club on a
Ranikhet west of Almora in Uttaranchal
The small and deliberately undeveloped town of RANIKHET. 50km west of Almora. is one of UP's most pleasant hill stations. Essentially, it's an army cantonment, the borne of the Kumaon Rifles. New construction is confined to the Sadar Bazaar area, while the rest of the town above it, climbing up towards the crest of the hill, retains atmospheric leafy pine woods. Beautiful forest trails abound, including short cuts from the bazaar ro the Mall; leopards still roam some of the more remote areas within the town boundaries, despite efforts by army officers to prove their skill at hunting. Ranikhet is
Gwaldam and Roop Kund east of Karnprayag in Uttaranchal
Straddling a pass between Garhwal and Kumaon, surrounded by pine forests 61km east of Karnprayag, the peaceful hamlet of GWALDAM looks down upon the beautiful valley of the Pindar, a world away from the hectic yatra trails. This picturesque spot, with stunning views of the triple-pointed peak, Trisul (7120m), used to be a tea plantation: now, thanks to its position on the main road to Almora, 90km southeast, it makes an ideal base for treks, especially following the ten-day Curzon Trail across the high mountain bugydls of northeastern Garhwal, over Kuari Pass to Tapovan and Joshimath. The unassuming little Buddhist
Uttaranchal Northest of Delhi
Northeast of Delhi, bordering Nepal and Tibet, the mountains of Garwhal and Kumaon rise from the fertile sub-Himalayan plains. Together they form the new state of UTTARANCHAL, also M known as Uttarkhand, which was recently shorn free from lowland Uttar Pradesh after years of agitation. The region has its own distinct languages and cultures, and successive deep river valleys shelter fascinating micro-civilizations, where Hinduism meets animism and the Buddhist influence is never too far away. The area is progressively opening up to visitors, with the slow demilitarization of the Tibetan border regions to the north. Although not as
Bharat Mata northwest of Godaulia in the Eastern UP
About 3km northwest of Godaulia, outside the old city, the modern temple of Bharat Mata (Mother India), inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi, is unusual id that it has a huge relief map in marble of the whole of the Indian subcontinent and the Tibetan plateau, with mountains, rivers and the holy tirthas all clearly visible. Pilgrims circumambulate the map before viewing it in its entirety from the second floor. The temple can be reached by rickshaw from Godaulia for around Rs7.
Bindevasani and forest trails northest of Chila at Uttaranchal
Along the Kimsar road, which penetrates the deep sal forests northeast of Chila, visitors have a reasonable chance of glimpsing wild elephant. Elephant herds migrate here seasonally from as far away as Corbett, and can sometimes be seen in the forests behind Swarg Ashram in Rishikesh. The tiny hamlet of BINDEVASANI, 14km northeast of Chila and linked to both' Chila and Haridwar by regular buses, stands at the foot of steep hills. Besides a small dhammshala and a teashop, there's little here to detain travellers, but it's possible to camp in the covered forecourt of the small cliff top Durga
Munsiyari north of Pithoragarh in Uttaranchal
The sprawling village of MUNSIYARI stands at the threshold of the inner Himalayas. 154km north of Pithoragarh, looking down on the Gori River gorge and deep valleys branching up into the high mountains. Vantage spots throughout the area ofter breathtaking views of the five almost-symmetrical Panchuli Peaks, which owe their name - the "five cooking pots" - to their plumes of wind-blown snow. These are notorious for their bad weather, but on clear days at Munsiyari you feel you could almost reach out and touch them. Among spectacular local high-mountain walks, which are being increasing^ derestricted, is the gentle 1 1km
Dehra Dun north of Delhi in Uttaranchal
The newly crowned capital of Uttaranchal. DEHRA DUN, 255km north of Delhi, tends to be seen simply as a staging post on the way to the hill station of Mussoorie, 34km north, and the Garhwal interior. Pleasantly located at just below 700m, as the Himalayan foothills begin their dramatic rise, Dehra Dun never gets too hot in summer, and snows only rarely in winter. With its vast open spaces and colonies such as the Cantonment, this popular retirement spot is renowned for its elite public schools and prestigious institutions. Although occupied in turn by Sikhs, Moghuls, and Gurkhas, it is
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