India Travel
Kedarnath: town and treks in Uttaranchal
KEDARNATH is not m itself a very attractive town - in fact it’s almost unbearable at the height of the pilgrimage season (May, june & Sept). It’s a grey place, consisting of a central thoroughfare stretching for 500m between the temple and the bridge, lined with rest houses and dhammshala, pilgrim shops, and administrative offices. However, the sheer power of its location tends to sweep away any negative impressions, and it’s always possible to escape to explore the incredible high-altitude scenery.
At the head of the town, the imposing temple is constructed along simple lines in stone, with a large mandapa (fore-chamber) housing an impressive stone image of Shiva’s bull, Nandi. Within the inner sanctum, open to all, pandas sit around a rock considered to be Shiva’s upraised are, left here as he plunged head-first into the ground. Mendicant sadhus congregate in the elevated courtyard in front of the temple.
A solid path from near the main bridge, before the town, crosses the Mandakini to the left of the valley, and ends 4km away at the glacier. At its edge, the Chorabari Tal lake is now known as Gandhi Sarovar, as some of Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were scattered here. Close by, around 800m before the lake, is the source of the Mandakini; it emerges from a hole in the moraine on extremely suspect ground, which should not be approached. You could also cross the river by the small bridge behind the temple, and scramble up the rough boulder-strewn moraine to meet the main track.
East of town, a well-marked path rises diagonally along the hillside to the prayer flags that mark a small shrine of the wrathful emanation of Shiva -Bhairava. The cliff known as Bhairava Jhamp is said to be somewhere nearby; until the British banned the practice in the nineteenth century, fanatical pilgrims used to leap to their deaths from it in the. hope of gaining instant liberation.
The most challenging of all the Kedarnath excursions is the nine-kilometre trek to the lake of Vasuki Tal (4328m). From the Tourist Bungalow, a well-marked pony track zigzags in clear view of Kedarnath, heading up the hill for around 1km before negotiating scree and rough ground near the crest, and descending slightly to Vasuki Tal.
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The route to Kedarnath north of Rishikesh in Uttaranchal
It's hard to imagine a more dramatic setting for a temple than Kedarnath, 223km north of Rishikesh, close to the source of the Mandakini at 3583m above sea level, and overlooked by tumbling glaciers and huge buttresses of ice, snow and rock. Kedarnath - the "field" (kedara) where the crop of mokslia (liberation) is sown - is the most important shrine in the Himalayas, and among the major Shiva temples of all India. According to the Purartas (Hindu tales), when the Pandavas were searching for Shiva to grant them absolution, they succeeded in tracking him down to Kedarnath, where he
Practicalities of Kedarnath in Uttaranchal
Kedarnath's GMVN Tourist Bungalow (0137286/6210), standing like a disused railway station before the bridge that leads into town, has a cheap dorm and standard double rooms. Alternatives include the clean and comfortable Bharat Seva Ashram, a large red building beyond the temple on the left; the pleasantly located bungalow of Modi Bhavan, behind and above the temple near the monument, which has large rooms and kitchenettes; and Punjab Sitidh, next to the post office. Food in the cafes along Kedarnath's main street is simple but expensive, as all supplies have to be brought up from the valley on horseback. The canteen
Joshimath and Auli northeast of Uttaranchal
The scattered administrative town of JOSHIMATH clings to the side of a deep valley 250km northeast of Rishikesh, with tantalizing glimpses of the snow peaks high above, and the prospect far below of the road disappearing into a sunless canyon at Vishnu Prayag, the confluence with the Dhauli Ganga. Few of the thousands of pilgrims who pass through en route to Badrinath linger here, but Joshimath has close links with Shankara, the ninth-century reformer, who attained enlightenment here beneath a mulberry tree, before going on to establish Jyotiramath, tine of the tour centres ot Hinduism (dhams) at the four cardinal
Uttarkashi largest town of Garhwal in Uttaranchal
The largest town in the interior of Garhwal. UTTARKASHI was little-known to the outside world until its unhappy association with the massive nearby earthquake in 1992.The town occupies the flat and fertile valley floor of the Bhagirathi; most pilgrims and tourists stop here to break the long journey between Rishikesh, 148km south, and Gangotri, 100km northeast. Uttarkashi's busy and well-stocked market is ideal for picking up supplies before high-altitude treks, and the town is also a good place to contact experienced mountain guides - mostly graduates of its Nehru Institute
Practicalities of Badrinath at Uttaranchal
At the information centre, run by Badrinaths Temple Committee, on the east bank opposite the temple, yon can book rooms in the various pilgrim rest houses they manage, such as the nearby Modi Bhavan, and Gujarat Bhavati, next to the temple on the more atmospheric west bank. Kale Kambli Wak's Ashram, behind the temple, is also excellent value. The most comfortable option m town is the large GMVN Devloke, behind the post office, with accommodation ranging from dorms to deluxe rooms, plus gardens and a restaurant. There are two other GMVN establishments near the new, space-age-style bus stand: the tourist
Uttaranchal Northest of Delhi
Northeast of Delhi, bordering Nepal and Tibet, the mountains of Garwhal and Kumaon rise from the fertile sub-Himalayan plains. Together they form the new state of UTTARANCHAL, also M known as Uttarkhand, which was recently shorn free from lowland Uttar Pradesh after years of agitation. The region has its own distinct languages and cultures, and successive deep river valleys shelter fascinating micro-civilizations, where Hinduism meets animism and the Buddhist influence is never too far away. The area is progressively opening up to visitors, with the slow demilitarization of the Tibetan border regions to the north. Although not as
Gwaldam and Roop Kund east of Karnprayag in Uttaranchal
Straddling a pass between Garhwal and Kumaon, surrounded by pine forests 61km east of Karnprayag, the peaceful hamlet of GWALDAM looks down upon the beautiful valley of the Pindar, a world away from the hectic yatra trails. This picturesque spot, with stunning views of the triple-pointed peak, Trisul (7120m), used to be a tea plantation: now, thanks to its position on the main road to Almora, 90km southeast, it makes an ideal base for treks, especially following the ten-day Curzon Trail across the high mountain bugydls of northeastern Garhwal, over Kuari Pass to Tapovan and Joshimath. The unassuming little Buddhist
Some Details of Mussoorie in Uttaranchal
Spreading for 15km along a high serrated ridge. MUSSOORIE is the closest hill station to Delhi, just 278km north of the capital, and 34km north ofDehra Dun (from where it is clearly visible). At an altitude of 2000m, it gives travellers from the plains their first glimpse of the snow-covered Himalayan peaks of western Garhwal, as well as dramatic views of the Dehra Dun valley below. Established in 1823 by a certain Captain Young, Mussoorie soon became a typical Victorian resort, centring on its long promenade - the Mall - and boasting an Anglican church, library and club. These days, Mussoorie
Practicalities of Almora in Uttaranchal
Almora has regular bus connections with Nainital (3 daily; 3hr), Ranikhet (5 daily; 2hr 30m.in), Kathgodam, the nearest railhead (2 daily; 4hr), and Kausam (6 daily; 2hr 30min). Most buses use either of two adjacent stands on the Mall, which has a taxi stand close by if you're heading for distant accommodation, such as the Holiday Home. However, most hotels are within walking distance. Access to much of the centre, including the market area above the Mall, is restricted to pedestrians. Another bus stand at Dharanaula, on the other side of the market, is for buses to the interior of
Pachmarhi hikes in Madhya Pradesh
The web of toresc tracks and pilgrim trails that thread their way around Fachmarhi's widely dispersed archeological and religious sites make for excellent walking, but few, if any, routes are marked in English. By far the bet maps and trekking information are available at the Tola Trekking Club (07578/52256). run by Vinay Sahu from Hotel Saket. This very reliable outfit will organize both day (Rsl50 per persoa extra for Jeep hire to trailheads) and overnight treks (Rs250), where you camp in the adivasi villages hidden in the hills. The guides in the Tola Trekking Club are all young tribal men
Treks around Manali and the Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh
The Kullu Valley's spectacular alpine scenery and proximity to some of HP's most dramatic and accessible peaks make it perfect for trekking. The trails are long and steep, but more than repay the effort with superb views, varied flora and the chance visit remote hill stations. Within striking distance of several major trailheads. Manali is the most popular place to begin and end treks. While package deals offered by the town's many agencies can save time and energy, it is relatively easy to organize your own trip with maps and advice from the Tourist Office and Mountaineering Institute at the bottom
Around Rishikesh: local treks at Uttaranchal
Although a road has now been blasted through the forest to the small Shiva shrine in the hamlet of Nilkanth Mahadev or simply Nilkantha, east of Rishikesh, it's still possible to walk there along the old pilgrim path. This beautiful forest track rises through the forests behind Swarg Ashram, passes Mahesh Yogi's ashram, and eventually crosses a spur before descending to Nilkantha. There's a chance you may encounter wildlife along the way; keep a safe distance from wild elephants. Nilkantha itself is changing, as an ever-growing number of pilgrims travel along the new road that has cut a swathe through
Badrinath northeast of Rishikesh and south of Tibet in Uttaranchal
The most popular of the four mam temples of Garhwal, 298km northeast of Rishikesh and just 40km south of Tibet, is that of BADRINATH.-Lord of the Berries". One of Hinduism's holiest sites, it was founded by Shankara in the ninth century, not far from the source of the Alaknanda. the main tributary of the holy Ganga. Although the temple has a stunning setting, deep in a valley beneath the sharp snowy pyramid of Nilkantha (6558m), the town that has grown up around it is grey, grubby and unattractive. Unril a few years ago. Badrinath was a remote and evocative place, where
Treks in the Pangi valley to Lahaul in Himachal Pradesh
Few trekkers make it to the spectacular, all but inaccessible Pangi Valley, between the soaring Greater Himalayan Range in the north and the Outer Himalayan Range in the south. With its deep river gorges and barren mountain peaks, it offers a wide range of scenery and vegetation: cultivated fields give way to forests of pine, deodar, spruce and silver oak, and beyond that hardy shrubs. Inhabited by nomadic Gaddi shepherds, the valley maintains a unique village culture. Several peaks within it have never been climbed, and onward paths lead to Kashmir, Lahaul and Zanskar. The trek takes nine or ten
Dehra Dun north of Delhi in Uttaranchal
The newly crowned capital of Uttaranchal. DEHRA DUN, 255km north of Delhi, tends to be seen simply as a staging post on the way to the hill station of Mussoorie, 34km north, and the Garhwal interior. Pleasantly located at just below 700m, as the Himalayan foothills begin their dramatic rise, Dehra Dun never gets too hot in summer, and snows only rarely in winter. With its vast open spaces and colonies such as the Cantonment, this popular retirement spot is renowned for its elite public schools and prestigious institutions. Although occupied in turn by Sikhs, Moghuls, and Gurkhas, it is
Garhwal in Uttaranchal
As the sacred land that holds the sources of the mighty Ganges and Yamuna rivers, GARWHAL has been the heartland of Hindu identity since the ninth century when, in the wake of the decline of Buddhism in northern India, the reformer Shankara incorporated many of the mountains' ancient shrines into the fold of Hinduism. He founded the four main yatra (pilgrimage) temples, deep within the Himalayas, known as the Char Dham - Badrinath, Kedarnath, and the less-visited pair of Gangotri and Yamunotri. Each year, between May and November, once the snows have melted, streams of pilgrims penetrate high into the
Parvati disappearances in Himachal Pradesh
In the past few years more than a dozen travellers have mysteriously disappeared in the Parvati Valley. Most were travelling alone, although the most recent incident in August 2000 involved three campers who were brutally attacked in their tent, thrown into the gorge and left for dead - one survived. Several theories have been put forward to explain these disappearances, from drug-related accidents on the steep and treacherous mountain trails, to attacks by bears or wolves, foul play by the numerous cannabis cultivators in the region, and even that the disappeared may have joined secret cults deep in the mountains.
Practicalities of Joshimath in Uttaranchal
Most buses and Jeeps up to Joshimath stop in the upper bazaar. All motorized transport onwards to Badrinath - and there are plenty of buses during the yatra season - is obliged to move in convoys. A gate system controls traffic in each direction, in two equal 24-kilometre stages - the first between Joshimath and Pandukeshwar, the second between Pandukeshwar and Badrinath. Several convoys leave Joshimath each day, the first at 6.30am and the last at 4.30pm from the Narsingh temple complex in the lower bazaar. At night the road remains closed. The local tourist office (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm) at Gandhi Maidan
Treks from Brahmour in Himachal Pradesh
Trekking routes lead north from Brahmour (2130m) over the Pir Panjal range across passes covered with snow for most of the year. The challenging trek over Kalichho Pass (4990m), "The Abode of Kali", ends in the village of Triloknath, whose ancient temple to three-faced Shiva is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Buses run from here to Udaipur, and on to Keylong and Manali. Another demanding route crosses the Kugti Pass (5040m), "that which makes one miserable to reach". From Hadsar, an hour by bus from Brahmour, the path follows the River Budhil for 12km to Kugti, then up to Kuddi
Trekking from Palampur district in Himachal Pradesh
With its lush tea gardens, alpine meadows and the harsh and rocky crags of the Dhaula Dhar range, Palampur is a good base for some lesser-known treks; the passes north of town offer unrivalled views of the Kangra Valley. An easy four-day hike leads from PALAMPUR over Waru Pass (3850m), the "gateway of wind", via Satchali, Thanetar and Dhog to Holi; continuing for two more testing days to the sacred Manimahesh Lake near Brahmour. From Dhog it's possible to continue east to Barabhangal and as far as Manali. A pleasant but difficult seven- or eight-day trek from PALAMPUR starts by crossing