India Travel
Kochi (Cochin) Information in Kerala
If you are based on Willingdon Island, head for the helpful Government of India tourist office (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-noon; 0484/668352) between the Taj Malabar Hotel and Tourist Office Jetty. They offer information on Kerala and beyond, can provide reliable guides and also have a desk at the Airport. KTDC’s reception centre, on Shanmugham Road, Ernakulam (0484/353234), reserves accommodation in their hotel chain and organizes fehtseeing and backwater tours. Another KTDC counter can be Found at the airport, and there’s a DTPC desk at the Old Collectorate Park Avenue, Ernakulam (0484/371488). The tiny independent tourist desk (daily 8am-7pm: 0484/371761), at the entrance to the Main Boat Jetty in trnakulam, is extremely helpful and friendly, and the best place to check ferry and bus timings and you can pick up free city and state maps. A mine of information on ritual theatre and temple festival daces around the state, the award-winning office also publishes a useful south India information guide and offers daily boat tours and houseboats at very competitive rates, as well as running a fantastic guesthouse near Cannore.
Useful publications include the Jaico Timetable (Rs7) and the bimonthly Cochin Shopper’s Digest (free), both of which are not exhaustive but list details of bus, train, ferry and flight times. KTDC publish an excellent walking tour map and guide to Fort Cochin (free; available from all KTDC tourist offices)-which describes the fascinating histories of many of the buildings you will see in the Fort area.
The city’s tourist police have a counter at the railway station and are on hand to answer queries and assist if you get into difficulties.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Kochi (Cochin) Tours and backwater trips in Kerala
KTDC's half-day Kochi boat cruise (daily 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; I Ks50) is a good way to orient yourself. However, it doesn't stop for long in either Mattancherry or Fort Cochin, so give it a miss if you are pushed for time. Departing from the High Court Jetty on Shanmugham Road, Ernakulam, it calls at the synagogue, Mattancherry Dutch Palace, St Francis Church, the Chinese fishing nets, and Bolghatty Island. Book at the KTDC Reception Centre on Shanmugham Road (0484/353234). KTDC, the Tourist Information Centre, and a couple of private companies also operate popular backwater trips out of Kochi.
Kochi (Cochin) and Ernakulam in Kerala
The venerable city of KOCHI (long known as Cochin), is Kerala's hottest tourist spot, spreading across islands and promontories in a stunning location between the Arabian Sea and backwaters. Its main sections - modern Ernakulam, in the east, and the old districts of Mattancherry and Fort Cochin on a peninsula in the west - are linked by a complex system of ferries, and distinctly less romantic bridges. Although most visitors end up staying in Ernakulam, Fort Cochin and Mattancherry are the focus of interest, where the city's extraordinary history of foreign influence and settlement is reflected in an assortment of
Kochi (Cochin) Accommodation in Kerala
The romantic atmosphere of Fort Cochin is being exploited, and a growing number of budget guesthouses and upmarket hotels is drastically altering the face of this quaint town; property developers with little interest in restoration and conservation are creating eyesores such as the Park Avenue hotel. The biggest crisis however, is the clean water shortage that has hit the locals very hard, especially in the high season; if you do stay in Fort Cochin, try and keep your daily water consumption to a minimum. To help preserve the fort area, you could opt to stay in Ernakulam. which lacks the
Kochi (Cochin) Arrival and local transport in Kerala
Kochi's brand new international airport is at Nedumbassery, near Always (aka Alua), 26km to the north of Ernakulam. Kochi is served by daily flights from Mumbai. Bangalore. Thiruvananthapuram and Delhi, and six each week from Chennai. Two weekly flights depart from Goa, Hyderabad-Kozhikode. and Coimbatore, as well as the Lakshadweep Islands and the Gulf States of Doha. Dubai. Kuwait. Sharjah and Muscat. There are three railway stations - Ernakulam Junction (131), closest to the centre, is the most important; Ernakulam Town lies 4km to the north. No trains run to For Cochin or Mattan cherry. The Cochin
Thripunitra Eating in Kerala
Unusually for Keralan cities, Kochi offers a wide choice for eating out, from the delicious fresh-cooked fish by the Chinese fishing nets at Fort Cochin, to the sophistication of the Bmntori Boatyard. Between the two extremes, various popular, modest places in Ernakulam serve real Keralan food. The ferries run all evening, and so it is possible to enjoy a meal on one of the more atmospheric islands before heading back to Ernakulam at about 9pm.
Thrissur in Kerala
The breezy bazaar town of THRISSUR (Trichur), roughly midway between Kochi (74km south) and Palakkad (79km northeast) on NH-47. is an obvious base for exploring the cultural riches of central Kerala. Near the Palghat (Palakkad) Gap - an opening in the natural border made by the Western Ghat mountains - it presided over the main trade route into the region from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. For years Thrissur was the capital of Cochin State, controlled at various times by both the zamorin of Kozhikode and Tipu Sultan of Mysore. Today, it justifiably prides itself on being the cultural capital of
The Jews of Kochi in Kerala
According to tradition, the Myuchasim Jews, who were the first to arrive on the Malabar coast, were fleeing from the occupation of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar, in 587 BC. However another legend claims that the Jews initially came in the eleventh century BC, as part of a trade fleet that belonged to King Solomon. Whatever the truth, the Jews settled in Cranganorejust north of Cochin, to trade in spices. They remained respected members of Keralan society and even had their own ruler, until the Portuguese embarked upon a characteristic "Christian" policy of persecution of nonbelievers, early in the sixteenth century. At that
Kathakali in Kochi in Kerala
Kochi is the only city in the state where you are guaranteed the chance to see live Kathakali, the uniquely Keralan form of ritualized theatre. Whether in its authentic setting, in temple festivals held during the winter, or at the shorter tourist-oriented shows that take place year round, these mesmerizing dance dramas are an unmissable feature of Kochi's cultural life. Four venues in the city hold daily recitals. Beginning at 6.30pm, the hour-long shows are preceded by an introductory talk. You can also watch the dancers being made-up if you arrive an hour or so early. Tickets cost Rs100 and can
Fort Cochin in Kerala
Moving northwest from Mattancherry Palace along Bazar Road, you pass wholesale emporia where owners, sitting behind scales surrounded by sacks of spices, may well be prepared to talk about their wares. Keep walking in a northerly direction, over the canal and then westwards into Fort Cochin. The architecture of the quiet streets in this enclave is very definitely European, with fine houses built by wealthy British traders, and Dutch cottages with split farmhouse doors. At the water's edge there's a bus stand, boat jetty and food and drinks stalls. This area and nearby Princess Street (which has a few budget
Chinese fishing nets in Kerala
The huge, elegant Chinese fishing nets that line the northern shore of Fort Cochin add grace to an already characterful waterside view, and ate probably. The single most familiar photographic image of Kerala. Traders from the court of Kublai Khan are said to have introduced them to the Malabar region" Known in Malayalam as cheena vala, they can also be seen throughout the back waters further south. The nets, which are suspended from arced poles and operated by levers and weights, require at least four men to control. You can buy fresh fish from the tiny market here and have
Travel details for Travel details in Kerala
For details of ferry services on the backwaters - primarily between Alappuzha and Kollam. Trains Kochi/Ernakulam to: Alappuzha (3-5 daily; 1hr 20min): Bangalore (1 daily; 14hr); Chennai (3-5 daily; 12hr45min-14hr40min); Coimbatore (3-4 daily; 4hr 45min-5hr 30min); Delhi (2 daily; 40hr 30min-49tir), Kanniyakumari (2-3 daily; 8hr); Kollam (8-9 daily; 3-4tir|; Kottayam (8-9 daily; 1hr 5min); Kozhikode (6-7.daily; 3hr 20min-6hr 20min); Mumbai (2-3 daily; 28hr 20min 10hr 25min); Palakkad (5-6 daily; 3hr 20mm); Tliiriivananthapuram (9-11 daily; 4hr 20min-5hr): Thrissur (12-14 daily; 1 hr 30min-2hr). Kozhikode to: Kochi (6-7 daily; 4hr 30min-5hr 10min); Mangalore (3-4 daily; 5hr 40min-6hr); Mumbai (2-3 daily; 16hr 20min-23hr); Thiruvananthapuram (4-6
Munnar Practicalities in Kerala
Munnar can be reached by bus trom Kochi, Kottayam, Kumily and Madurai, either directly or with a change at Tehni. State-run and private services pull into the stand in the bazaar at the north end of town, near the river confluence and Tata headquarters. For most hotels you should ask to be dropped off an Old Munnar, 2km south of the centre, near the ineffectual DTPC tourist office (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0486/530679). If you need information on transport, accommodation and day-trips, including to Eravikulam, seek out the helpful Joseph type, who runs the Free Tourist
Arrival and information Thrissur in Kerala
Thrissurs railway station is 1km southwest of Round South, near the KSRTC long-distance bus stand. Priya Darshini (also known as "North", "Shoranur" and "Wadakkancheri") bus station, close to Round North, serves Unusually for Keralan cities, Kochi offers a wide choice for eating out, from the delicious fresh-cooked fish by the Chinese fishing nets at Fort Cochin, to ™e sophistication of the Brwiton Boatyard. Between the two extremes, various Popular. modest places in Ernakulam serve real Keralan food. The ferries run evening, and so it is possible to enjoy a meal on one of the more atmospheric islands before heading back
Kozhikode (Calicut) in Kerala
The busy coastal city of KOZHIKODE (Calicut), 225km north of Kochi, occupies an extremely important place in Keralan legend and history. It is also significant in the story of European interference in the subcontinent, as Vasco da Gama first set foot in India at Kozhikode in 1498. However, as a tourist destination, it's a dud, with precious few remnants of its historic past. The few foreigners that pause here invariably do so only to break the long journey between Mysore and Kochi. Kozhikode s roots are shrouded in myth. According to Keralan tradition, the powerful king Cheraman Perumal is said to
Kodungallur from Thrissur in Kerala
Virtually an island, surrounded by backwaters and the sea, the small country-town ot KODUNGALLUR (Cranganore), 35km south of Thrissur, is rich in Keralan history. The typically dusty and nondescript modern town contrasts sharply with tales of its illustrious past. Kodungallur has been identified as the site of the ancient cities of Vanji. one-time capital of the Chera kingdom, and Muziris. described in the first century AD by the Roman traveller, Pliny, as Primuui Emporium Indiac. the most important port in India. Other accounts describe the harbour as crowded with great ships, warehouses, palaces, temples and Yavanas (a generic term for
Thiruvananthapuram Information and tours in Kerala
All the tourist offices at the airport are open during flight times. The Government of India's counter (0471/501498) offers general information regarding Kerala and the adjacent states, while the Government of Kerala has two counters, one at the domestic terminal (0471/501085) and the other at the internacion.il terminal (0471/502298), offering Kerala-specific information including, for example, on backwater cruises. The Government of Kerala also has an office in the main block at the Thampanoor bus stand (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0471/327224) which is good for general information and maps and sells tickets for backwater cruises between Kollam and Alappuzha. They have another counter
Keralan murals in Kerala
The quality and unique style of the murals at Martancherry Palace in old Kochi, along with those in as many as sixty other locations in Kerala, are probably the best-kept secrets in Indian art. Most are on the walls of functioning temples; they are not marketable, transportable, or indeed even seen by many non-Hindus. Few date from before the sixteenth century, depriving them of the aura of extreme antiquity; their origins may go back to the seventh century, probably influenced by the Pallava style of Tamil Nadu, but only traces in one tenth-century cave temple survive from the earliest period.
Moving on from Kochi/ErakuEam in Kerala
For an overview of travel services to and from Kochi/Ernakulam, see Travel Details on p.1378. By air The new international airport (0484/610050, 610115. or 610116) at Nedumbassery near Alwaye (aka Alua), 26km to the north of Ernakulam, has been designed to attract international flights especially from the Gulf. Jet Airways has two flights a day to Mumbai, and Indian Airlines operates daily flights to Mumbai, Bangalore, Delhi, and Thiruvananthapuram. Indian Airlines flies six days a week to Chennai, and twice weekly to Goa, Coimbatore, Hyderabad and Calicut. If you want to fly to the Lakshadweep Islands, contact Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island f-
Fort Cochin in Kerala
Addy's. Elphinstone Road. Open Sam until midnight, in a lovely rambling seventeenth-century house, with lanterns, gingham cloths and loads of family atmosphere. The place gets enthusiastic reviews, with a high entertainment rating and praise for the meat dishes in particular, although Keralan dishes and fresh fish are also on the menu. Brunton Boatyard, next to Fort Cochin Jetty. The expensive menu comprises a wonderful collection of dishes designed to reflect all the cultural influences that that have played a part in the history of Cochin: Lebanese, Portuguese, British Raj, Dutch Jewish, and of course, Keralan. Unfortunately, it is a la carte
Willingdon Island in Kerala
Fort Cochin, Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island 0484/668 8421. This seafood restaurant is considered to be one of the best in India. You choose from the catch of the day and then you choose the style of cooking, which is all done in front of you-Delicious maybe, but it's very expensive, claustrophobic, and the decor is dull. Taj Malabar, Willingdon Island £0484/666811-Two restaurants: the Jade Pavilion for Chinese, and Rice Boats serving Western, north Indian and Keralan dishes in a beautiful waterside location. The food is excellent and prices reflect this; the Rs200 lunchtime buffet is varied and good value.