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Kollam (Quilon) and around Practicalities In Kerala

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The railway station is on the east of town, a three-kilo metre auto-rickshaw ride (Rs 15-20) from the jetty. Numerous daily trains each way run from Ernakulam and Thiruvananthapuram and beyond. On platform 4, the tiny District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC) tourist information counter (Mon-Sat 9am-l 2.30pm & 1.30-5pm) will book hotels for travellers; you have to pay one night in advance, but the only extra charge is for the phone calls. They also have a tourist office (Mon-Sat 9am-5.30pm; 0474/742558) at the boat jetty (for boat details, see below for boat details), but will only provide details on their own tourist ferry service. By contrast, the local Allepuzha Tourism Development Council (ADTC) office on the oppose side of the road is very friendly and dispenses unbiased information about both tourist and local ferry services; they also have a good number of rice boats available for backwater cruises. Both outfits operate a daily cruise from Kollam to Alappuzha, which departs at 10.30am and takes eight hours (Rsl50) with stops for lunch and tea. While the cruise is popular, many visw tors feel that you get a far better impression of backwater life by hopping between villages on the very cheap local ferries. Tickets for both the DTPQ and ATDC ferries can be bought on the morning of the trip in the respective tourist offices; tickets for the local ferries are purchased at the booth on the jetty. Note that the ATDC ferry leaves from a pier 100m to the west of the main jetty,

The jetty- and KSRTC bus stand are close together on the edge of Ashtanwol Lake. Bookable express buses are available south to Thinivananthapuram (1hr 30min) and north to Kochi (3hr) via Alappuzha (1hr 15min).

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Kollam (Quilon) and around in Kerala

One of the oldest ports of the Malabar coast, KOLLAM (pronounced "Koillam" and previously known as Quilon), 74km northwest of Thiruvananthapuram and 85km south of Alappuzha, was once at the centre of the international spice trade. The sixteenth-century Portuguese writer Duarte Barbossa described it as a" very great city with a right good haven", which was visited by "Moors, Heathen and Christians in great numbers", and stated that "a great store" of pepper was to be found there. In fact, the port flourished from the very earliest times, trading amicably with the Phoenicians, Arabs, Persians, Greeks, Romans and Chinese. Nowadays, Kollam

Kottayam and around Practicalities in Kerala

Kottayam's KSRTC bus stand, 500m south of the centre on TB Road (not to be confused with the private stand for local buses on KK Road, aka Shastri Road), is an important stop on routes to and from major towns in south India. Four of the frequent buses to Kumily/Penyar (3-4hr) each day go on to Madurai, in Tamil Nadu (7hr), and there are regular services to Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam and Ernakulam. The railway station (2km north of the centre) sees a constant flow of traffic between Thiruvananthapuram and points north. Ferries from Alappuzha and elsewhere dock at the weed-clogged jetty,

Thiruvananthapuram Information and tours in Kerala

All the tourist offices at the airport are open during flight times. The Government of India's counter (0471/501498) offers general information regarding Kerala and the adjacent states, while the Government of Kerala has two counters, one at the domestic terminal (0471/501085) and the other at the internacion.il terminal (0471/502298), offering Kerala-specific information including, for example, on backwater cruises. The Government of Kerala also has an office in the main block at the Thampanoor bus stand (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 0471/327224) which is good for general information and maps and sells tickets for backwater cruises between Kollam and Alappuzha. They have another counter

Varkalanorthwest in Kerala

Long known to Keralans as a place of pilgrimage, VARKALA, 54km northwest of Thiruvananthapuram and 20km southeast of Kollam, is drawing more and more foreign visitors, who see the beautiful beach and cliffs 1500m beyond the village as a quiet, unspoiled alternative to Kovalam. Centred on a clifftop row of budget guesthouses and palm-thatch cafes, the tourist scene has so far been relatively low-key despite the arrival of the Taj Group's luxury resort and the occasional package tour group. Varkala is developing, albeit slowly, so enjoy it while you can; this tranquil spot could well go the same way as

Travel details for Travel details in Kerala

For details of ferry services on the backwaters - primarily between Alappuzha and Kollam. Trains Kochi/Ernakulam to: Alappuzha (3-5 daily; 1hr 20min): Bangalore (1 daily; 14hr); Chennai (3-5 daily; 12hr45min-14hr40min); Coimbatore (3-4 daily; 4hr 45min-5hr 30min); Delhi (2 daily; 40hr 30min-49tir), Kanniyakumari (2-3 daily; 8hr); Kollam (8-9 daily; 3-4tir|; Kottayam (8-9 daily; 1hr 5min); Kozhikode (6-7.daily; 3hr 20min-6hr 20min); Mumbai (2-3 daily; 28hr 20min 10hr 25min); Palakkad (5-6 daily; 3hr 20mm); Tliiriivananthapuram (9-11 daily; 4hr 20min-5hr): Thrissur (12-14 daily; 1 hr 30min-2hr). Kozhikode to: Kochi (6-7 daily; 4hr 30min-5hr 10min); Mangalore (3-4 daily; 5hr 40min-6hr); Mumbai (2-3 daily; 16hr 20min-23hr); Thiruvananthapuram (4-6

Moving on from Kochi/ErakuEam in Kerala

For an overview of travel services to and from Kochi/Ernakulam, see Travel Details on p.1378. By air The new international airport (0484/610050, 610115. or 610116) at Nedumbassery near Alwaye (aka Alua), 26km to the north of Ernakulam, has been designed to attract international flights especially from the Gulf. Jet Airways has two flights a day to Mumbai, and Indian Airlines operates daily flights to Mumbai, Bangalore, Delhi, and Thiruvananthapuram. Indian Airlines flies six days a week to Chennai, and twice weekly to Goa, Coimbatore, Hyderabad and Calicut. If you want to fly to the Lakshadweep Islands, contact Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island f-

Kuttanda: the backwaters of Kerala Routes and practicalities in Kerala

There are numerous backwater routes to choose from, on vessels ranging from local ferries, through chauffeur-driven speedboats offered by the KTDC, to customized kettu vallam and rice boat cruises. The most popular excursion is the full-day journey between Kollam and Alappuzha; you can cover part or all of the route in a day, returning to your original point of departure by bus during the evening, or, more comfortably, staying the night at either end. All sorts of private hustlers offer their services, but the basic choice lies between boats run by the Alieppey Tourism Development Co-op (ATDC) and the District

Alappuzha in Kerala

Under its former appellation of Alleppey, ALAPPUZHA. roughly midway between Kollam (85km south) and Kochi (64km north), is another romannc and historic name from Kerala's past. It was one of the best-known ports along the Malabar coast, and tourist literature is fond of referring to it as 'Venice oi the East", but while it may be full of interconnecting canals, there the resemblance ends. Alappuzha is a bustling, messy town of ramshackle wood and cor- rugated iron-roofed houses, chiefly significant in the coir industry, which accounts for much of the traffic on its oily green-brown waterways. Despite its insalubrious canals, Alappuzha is

The Details of Kerala

A sliver of dense greenery sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and the forested Western Ghat mountains, the state of KERALA runs down the southwest coast of India, around 550km long and 120km wide at its broadest poin:. It is blessed with unique geographical and cultural features and the overpowering tropical landscape, with 41 rivers and countless waterways, fed by two annual monsoons, intoxicates every newcomer. Equally, Kerala's arcane rituals and spectacular festivals Stimulate even the most jaded imagination, continuing centuries of tradition that has never strayed far from the realms of magic. Travellers weary of daunting metropolises will find that Kerala's

Varkalanorthwest Arrival and information in Kerala

Varkala's railway station, 2km east of the village, is served by express and mai trains from Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam (hourly; 45min), and most other Keralan towns on the main line. An auto-rickshaw to the beach costs around Rs20-30. Regular buses also run from Thiruvananthapuram's Thampanoo stand, and from Kollam (lhr-2hr 30mm). A few go all the way to the bead" but most stop in the village centre, a five-minute auto-rickshaw ride away. 1 you can't get a direct bus, take any "superfast" or "limited stop" bus along th main highway, NH-47, and change at Kallamballam from where you can ho onto

Alappuzha Practicalities in Kerala

The shambolic KSRTC bus stand, on the east of town, is served by half-hourly buses to Kollam, Thiruvananthapuram and Ernakukm; less frequent buses run to Kottayam, Thrissur and Palakkad. The boat jetty is just one minute's walk west from the bus stand. As the backwaters prevent trains from continuing south beyond Alappuzha, only a few major daily services and a handful of passenger trains depart from the railway station, 3km southwest of the jetty. Among these are the Bokaro/Tata Express #8690 at 6am, the Trivandrum-Mumbai CST Express #6332 at 7.20am and the-Alleppey-Chennai Express #6042 at 3pm; all three stop at

Around Kollam: Kayamkulam and Karunagapalli in Kerala

KAYAMKULAM. served by (non-express) buses between Kollam and Alappuzha, was once the centre of its own small kingdom, which after a battle in 1746 came under the control of Travancore's king Marthanda Varma. In the eighteenth century, the area was famous for its spices, particularly pepper and cinnamon.The Abbes Reynal claimed that the Dutch exported some two million pounds of pepper each year, one-fifth of it from Kayamkulam. At this time, the kingdom was known also for the skill of its army, made up of 15,000 Nayars (Kerala's martial caste). Set in a tranquil garden, the eighteenth-century Krishnapuram Palace (Tues-Sat 10am—4.30pm;

Cheruthuruthy Practicalities in Kerala

Cheruthuruthy s accommodation is limited, with some students staying as jjuests in private accommodation or at the new on-site, self-catering international Hostel. The village has a couple of simple guesthouses and the atmospheric Government Rest House (0488/462760; 0), a short distance along the Shoramur road from Kalamandalam, has eight vast and very basic rooms, some with Western-style toilets, and all sharing a veranda. The bustling and (Unattractive town of Shoramur has more options but none that could capture tthe charm of Cheruthuruthy and its environs. Food may be available by .arrangement, and there are simple "meals" shops in the village;

Some history in Kerala

The god Farashurama, "Rama with the battle-axe", the sixth incarnation of Vishnu, is credited with creating Kerala. Born a brahmin, he set out to re-establish the supremacy of the priestly class, whose position had been usurped by arrogant kshatryas, the martial aristocracy. Brahmins were forbidden to engage in warfare, but he embarked upon a campaign of carnage, which only ended when Varuna, the all-seeing god of the sea, gave him the chance to create a new land from the ocean, for brahmins to live in peace. Its limits were defined by the distance Parashurama could throw his axe; the waves

North of Kozhikode in Kerala

The beautiful coast of Kerala, north of Kozhikode, is a seemingly endless stretch of coconut palms, wooded hills and virtually deserted beaches; the towns hold little of interest for visitors, most of whom bypass the area completely. However, then you miss out on the fun of a search through the villages for Teyyattam, the extraordinary masked trance dances that take place throughout the region during winter.

Thrissur in Kerala

The breezy bazaar town of THRISSUR (Trichur), roughly midway between Kochi (74km south) and Palakkad (79km northeast) on NH-47. is an obvious base for exploring the cultural riches of central Kerala. Near the Palghat (Palakkad) Gap - an opening in the natural border made by the Western Ghat mountains - it presided over the main trade route into the region from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. For years Thrissur was the capital of Cochin State, controlled at various times by both the zamorin of Kozhikode and Tipu Sultan of Mysore. Today, it justifiably prides itself on being the cultural capital of

Palakkad Practicalities in Kerala

Palakkad is well connected to the rest of Kerala and most of the main express trains travelling through to Chennai, Bangalore and points further north stop at Palakkad's railway station, 6km to the northeast. The KSRTC bus stand is slap in the centre of town; most accommodation, in budget Indian-style lodges, is nearby.The Ammbctdi,onTB Road, opposite the town bus stand and 500m from the KSRTC bus siand (0491/531244; 0-0), has comfortable rooms, some a/c, and the restaurant serves Indian and Chinese food. Far more, the modern Holel Indraprastha, English Church Road (0491/534641, 539531), boasts large rooms, some with a/c, a

Chinese fishing nets in Kerala

The huge, elegant Chinese fishing nets that line the northern shore of Fort Cochin add grace to an already characterful waterside view, and ate probably. The single most familiar photographic image of Kerala. Traders from the court of Kublai Khan are said to have introduced them to the Malabar region" Known in Malayalam as cheena vala, they can also be seen throughout the back waters further south. The nets, which are suspended from arced poles and operated by levers and weights, require at least four men to control. You can buy fresh fish from the tiny market here and have

Padmanabhapuram Practicalities in Kerala

Frequent buses run to Padmanabhapuram from Thiruvananthapurams Thampanoor station; hop on any service heading south towards Nagercoil or Kanniyakumari and get off at Thakkaly (sometimes written Thuckalai). If you're determined to see Padmanabhapuram. Kanniyakumari and Suchindram in one day. leave the city early to arrive when the palace opens at 9am. Note that two express buses leave Thakkaly at 2,30pm and 3.30pm for Thiruvananthapuram. Another way to see Padmanabhapuram is on KTDC's Kanniyakumari tour which starts at Thiruvananthapuram (Tues-Sun 7.30am-9pm; Rs230) and can be picked up at Kovalam where it stops en route. The area around the bus station, being on

Ponmudi Practicalities in Kerala

Four daily buses run from Thiruvananthapuram to Ponmudi, via Vithura; the first is at 5.30am and the last at 10.15am.There are many more buses back trom Ponmudi to Thiruvanathapuram, starting at 6am until 6.30pm. The nearest tourist office is currently in Thiruvananthapuram, where information on Ponmudi is readily available, although a snazzy new tourist information office should be open in Ponmudi by 2002. The Government Guest House (0472/890230) has 24 rooms, and seven cottages, all with hot water. The simple and inexpensive but delicious meals have to be ordered a couple of hours in advance, otherwise the cold drinks and snacks

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