India Travel
Kumbalgarh North of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The remote hilltop fort of KUMBALGARH, 84km north of Udaipur, is the most formidable of the 32 constructed by Maharana Kumbha in the fifteenth century. Protected by a series of seven thick ramparts, it was only successfully besieged once, when a confederacy led by Akbar poisoned the Sisodias’ water supply - the Moghul emperor later returned it to them anyway. Aside from the impressive fortifications and ancient monuments they enclose, the main reason to venture out here is to experience the idyllic Aravalli countryside. Winding through a string of tribal villages and picturesque valleys, the Udaipur road alone more than repays the effort, and once you have reached the top of the range the views are superb.
The most memorable panorama of all is the one from the pinnacle of Kumbalgarh palace, crowning the summit of the fort. A guide will show you through the series of gateways and residential quarters to the room where Udai Singh was raised by his nurse after fleeing Chittaurgarh in 1535, and the topmost Cloud Palace (so named because during the monsoons it sits in the clouds), restored and furnished by Udaipur’s Fateh Singh early this century. From the rooftops, you gain striking birds’ eye views over the Jain and Hindu temples scattered across the plateau. The oldest of them are thought to date from the second century; the tombs of Kumbha (murdered by his eldest son) and his grandson Prithviraj (poisoned by his brother-in-law) stand to the east.
Provided you’re equipped with good shoes and ample provisions, the best way to explore these more remote monuments is on foot, via the old walls. Some 36km of crenellated ramparts wind around the rim of the hilltop, and it is possible to complete a circuit in two comfortable days, sleeping rough midway around. You won’t need a guide, but be sure to take food and water as there are no permanent settlements.
Lining the deep valley that plunges west from the fort down to the plains, the Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary comprises a dense swathe of woodland that’s a stronghold for wolves, leopards and panthers. With a local guide, you can trek through it to Ranakpur, an excellent hike of between four and five hours. Entry to the sanctuary costs Rs50 (plus Rs50 for cameras); foreigners need permits, obtainable from the District Forest Officer at nearby Kelwara, or through either of the upmarket hotels if you’re staying in one. Both the Aodhi and Kitwbalgark Fort can also arrange guides for the trek, but you’ll save a lot of money by contacting one yourself: ask at the cafe just inside the fort gates.
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Around Udaipur in Rajasthan
You'd need to have a lot of time on your hands to see more than a fraction of the ruins, palaces, temples, forts, lakes and wildlife sanctuaries that abound in the countryside around Udaipur. Day-trips northeast of the city can take in the important historic temples of Nagda. Eklingji, Nathdwara. and Kankroli along NH-H towards Bhihwara, or the peaceful wooded surroundings ot Ranakpur and Kumbalgarh. which also make appealing stopovers before you join NH-15 en route to Jodhpur. Renting a car saves time, but regular and efficient local buses, as well as private tour companies, serve both routes.
Practicalities of Kumbalgarh north of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Taxis regularly run tourists out to Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur in a day-trip from Udaipur, but it's best to take your time and travel at a more leisurely pace, staying for a night or two in one of the hotels that lie within walking distance of the fort. A couple of express buses leave Udaipur's RSRTC stand in the morning (3hr 30min). Competent motorcyclists may also consider riding out here on a rented bike, which would allow you to explore this particularly scenic stretch of road in more depth. Ranakpur lies a long, winding journey away on a route served by
Practicalities of Ranakpur North of Udipur in Rajasthan
Ranakpur is a bumpy three-hour journey on regular buses from Udaipur. You can also get here from Jodhpur, via the market town of Falna on NH-14, and there are a couple of express connections to Abu Road. If you're intending to visit Kumbalgarh as well, though, think about trekking between the two sites, which are separated by one of the few remaining forested areas in the Aravallis. As Kumbalgarh is on the top of the range, it's much easier to hike from there down to Ranakpur, but guides may be arranged through The Castle Hotel for the six-hour uphill climb
Moving on from Udaipur in Rajasthan
Indian Airlines flies to Jaipur, Jodhpur, Delhi and Mumbai. Book tickets direct at their office in the LIC Building, opposite Hotel Air Palace, Delhi Gate (Mon-Sat 10am-1pm & 2-5pm). Jet Airways also fly to Jaipur, Delhi and Mumbai, but not to Jodhpur. Their office is north of the centre at the Blue Circle Business Centre, 1C Madhuban (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm). Udaipur is poorly served by trains, with just one daily departure to Ahmedabad, where you can pick up connecting services to Mumbai. Heading north, two trains run to Delhi each day. The fastest is the #9616 Chetak Express (depart 6.10pm), which also
East of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The belt of hilly land east of Udaipur is the most fertile in Rajasthan, watered by several perennial rivers. Although you need your own vehicle to penetrate the countryside, the historic town of Chittaurgarh, which preceded Udaipur as the seat of Mewar's rulers, is easily accessible by bus. Further east, clusters of crumbling temples mark the sites of still older cities. In the far southeast, the heartland of the princely state of Kota, palaces and forts in Kota and Bundi stand sentinel over fields of wheat, groundnut, castor-oil plants and opium poppies. A prime crop here for centuries, opium is
Ranakpur North of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The complex of Jain temples at RANAKPUR, 60km north of Udaipur, is the largest of its kind in India, boasting marble work on a par with that of the more famous Dilwara shrines at Mount Abu and Shatrunjaya near palitana in Gujarat. Unlike the latter two hilltop sites, however, this sacred spot is hidden at the base of a wooded valley. The land, deep in the Aravalh range, was originally gifted to the Jain community in the fifteenth-century by Rana Kumbha, the Hindu ruler of Mewar. Ranakapur's isolated position has kept it well off the foreign tourist trail, but if-you're working
Chittaurgarh East of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Of all the former Rajput capitals, CHITTAURGARH (or Chittor), 115km northeast of Udaipur, was the strongest bastion of Hindu resistance against the Muslim invaders. No less than three mass suicides (johars) were committed over the centuries by the female inhabitants of its fort, whose husbands watched their wives, sisters and mothers burn alive before smearing ash from the sacred funeral pyres over their bodies and riding to their deaths on the battlefield below. An air of desolation still hangs over the honey-coloured ramparts, temples, towers and palaces of the old citadel, which sprawls over a rocky plateau high above the
Udaipur in Rajasthan
Despite the last twenty years of unchecked ferro-concrete construction, James Tod's assessment of UDAIPUR still holds true. Reflected in the shimmering waters of Pichola Lake, the city's skyline of whitewashed havelis and tapering temple shikhams, surmounted by the domes and ornately carved balconies of the famous Rajput city palace, has managed to keep its head above the rising tide of hotels and terrace restaurants, and remains one of Asia's most exotic spectacles. Enjoying it from a boat at water level, or on a rooftop in the cool of the evening, many travellers are tempted to forget their tight itineraries. In
Some history East of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The uncompromising policy of death before submission followed by Chittors Sisodia overlords ensured that its history is replete with tales of loyalty and terrible sacrifice. In 1303, during the reign of Rana Ratan Singh, a devastating attack was launched by Ala-ud-din-Khalji, the fiercest of the Delhi sultans. Having besieged the city, he offered to withdraw on condition that he be permitted to glimpse Ratan's legendarily beautiful queen. Padmini. After being admitted alone into the palace to view the queens reflection in a lotus lake,however, the sultan contrived to have Ratan ambushed just as he was showing him out. But Padmini
Nathdwara of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The temple dedicated to Krishna - known also as Nath, the favourite avatar (incarnation) otVishnu - at NATHDWARA."Gateway to God", is said to be the second richest temple in India after Tirupati (in Andhra Pradesh). The site was known as Sihar until the moment in the seventeenth century when1 a chariot laden with an image of Krishna became stuck in the mud 26km north of Eklingji. The idol was being carried from Krishna's birthplace Mathura to Udaipur to spare it almost certain destruction by Aurangzeb; its bearers interpreted the event as a divine sign and established a new temple where
Royal cenotaphs and Ahar museum of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Across the narrow Ahar River, 2km east of Udaipur, domed cenotaphs huddle together on the site of the royal cremation ground. Raised on platforms, some of which are decorated with shiva Jingams, many of the chhatris are falling into disrepair, and the site is pretty dirty Even so, it's a good place to pick up on local history, featuring an ornate memorial to the prodigious builder jagat Singh (1628-52) and the cenotaph of Amar Singh (died 162(1) who contributed so much to the City Palace, embellished with friezes depicting the immolation of his wives. Less than lkm south of here, archeological
Practicalities to Kata East of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Kota's railway station is in the north of town, a few kilometres from the central bus stand. The tourist office (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm) is in the RTDC Chambal Hotel, Nayarpura, not far from the bus stand. Changing money is a time-consuming process. The State Bank of India on Aerodrome Circle will change travellers' cheques: other banks do not. The post office is on Station Road (Mon-Sat 6am-6pm).
Arrival, information and city transport of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Daily flights connect Dabok Airport, 25km east of Udaipur, with Mumbai, Delhi, Aurangabad and Jaipur. Taxis run to the city itself for around Rs200. Trains from Delhi and Ahmedabad pull in at Udaipur City Station a little to the south of the town centre (don't get off at Udaipur Station, much further north).The bus stand is a few hundred metres north of here, directly opposite Udai Pole, the easternmost gate of the old city. The easiest way to get into town from either is to jump in a rickshaw or conga. The town's grand but largely ineffectual tourist office (Mon—Sat )
Travel details in the Rajasthan
Trains Jaipur to: Agra (2 daily; 7hr); Ahmedabad (2 daily; 14hr); Ajmer (5 daily; 2-3hr); Alwar (7 daily; 2hr 35min-4hr); Bikaner (3 daily; 6hr 30min-1 Ohr); Calcutta (2 daily: 29hr); Chittaurgarh (2 daily; 7hr 40min-8hr 15min); Chum (3 daily: 5hr 20min); Delhi (8 daily; 4hr 20min-6hr 30]; Jhunjhunu (3 daily; 4hr 40min-6hr); Jodhpur (4-5 daily; 5hr-6hr iOmin); Kota (3 daily; 3hr 45min); Mount Abu (3 daily; 8-9hr); Mumbai (2 daily; 16hr 30min-22hr); Sawai Madhopur (2-3 daily; 2hr-3hr 20min); Sikar (5 daily; 3hr); Udaipur (2 daily; 10-12hr). Jodhpur to: Abu Road (3 daily: 5hr); Agra (2 daily; 13hr); Ahmedabad (3 daily; 10hr);
Kankroli and Rajsamand of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Northeast of Nathdwara, NH-8 winds through another 17km of undulating scrub before reaching KANKROLI, 65km from Udaipur. This dusty little market town stands on the shores of the vast Rajsamand Lake, whose construction was commissioned by Maharana Raj Singh in the seventeenth century after a terrible drought swept Rajasthan. On the lake's western shore, a few kilometres our of town, is Nauchowki. a collection of nine chowks (pavilions), on platforms above the steps leading to the water. With carved pillars and ceilings showing scenes from the life of Krishna, these chowks were erected by Raj Singh to commemorate his marriage to
The City of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The original settlement of Udaipur focused around the grand City Palace. bordering the west shore of Lake Pichola. Immediately north is the maze of tightly winding streets that constitute the old city. It cakes a few days of wandering before this labyrinth becomes intelligible; start by getting acquainted with the gates and circles that form traffic islands at the major crossroads. From the clock tower that marks the northern edge of the old city, roads lead east to the tourist information office and Ahar, west to the lake, and north to the GPO at Chetak Circle. Continuing north, the road
Sahelion-ki-Bari of Udaipur in Rajasthan
The "garden of the maids of honour". Sahelion-ki-Bari. roughly 2km north of Hathi Pole (daily 9am—7.30pm; Rs3), was laid out by Sangram Singh early in the eighteenth century for the diversion and entertainment of the ladies of the royal household. Surrounding a shady courtyard, the fountained garden must once have made a delightful retreat, but today the fountains only play at the request of visitors, and the focus of attention is the wide range of indigenous trees and flowers. During the monsoon die lotus pond behind the courtyard is ablaze with colour.
Udaipur in the Northeast
The former capital of the Manikyas, UDAIPUR retains an atmosphere of antiquity not found in the metropolis of Agartala. An important market town, it is surrounded by paddy fields and low forested hills. On the southwest bank ot Jagannath Dighi tank stand the ruins of the Jagannath temple, while the seventeenth-century Moghul Masjid marks the furthest outpost of the Moghal Empire. Tripura Sundari, the most important temple in the area, stands 5km outside Udaipur, on a small hillock in front of a holy lake which teems with carp and turtles. Built in typical Bengali-hut style with a square sanctum and
Accommodation to Udaipur in Rajasthan
Sandwiched between the City Palace and jagdish temple on the east side of Lake Pichola, countless guesthouses vie for views of the water with elegant havelis and royal palaces. Cut-throat competition in this area has meant perennially low tariffs for punters in most categories. But it has also sparked off a destructive building boom as hoteliers scramble to attract customers with better views from ever loftier tower blocks. The result is a mass of hideous concrete that threatens to engulf the very skyline tourists flock here to see. In 1999, the High Court ruled that no further building should take
Fateh Sagar of Udaipur in Rajasthan
Not far west of Sahelion-ki-Bari is Fateh Sagar, a lake fringed by sharp hills and connected to Lake Pichola by a canal built shortly after the turn of the twentieth century. At the jetty on the western shore, you can hop on the boat that ferries tourists across the water to Nehru Park in the centre of the Jake (daily: summer Sam—6.30pm; winter 8am-6pm; Rs3).The park, constructed in 1937 as a famine relief project, is nothing special, but pleasant enough if you want to get away from the bustle of the town.