India Travel
Listings of McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh
Banks and exchange The State Bank of India in McLeod Ganj has ceased foreign exchange transactions. There’s another branch in lower Dharamsala (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, Sat 10am-noon). The Bank of Baroda. in the lower town, issues money to Visa card holders, with one or two days’ delay. There are several authorized private foreign exchange agencies in McLeod Ganj.
Bookshops The Tibetan Bookshop and Information Office is a good place to browse for books on Tibetan Buddhism, as is the friendly and informative Charitable Trust Shop, both on Jogibara Road in the main bazaar.
Bookworm, opposite the Tourist Office, South End, is small bfl has a very good selection especially on Buddhism and also stocks secondhand books.
Related Properties from Gurgaon
Arrival and information in Himachal Pradesh
State-ran buses from Manali, Mandi, Pathankot, Kangra and Delhi pull into the bus stand in the very south of the lower town, though some continue after a short stop all the way up to McLeod Ganj - the usual arrival point for private and deluxe buses from Delhi and Manali. The nearest point of arrival for trains from Delhi, Punjab and Jammu Tawi is Pathankot - the narrow-gauge train linking Pathankot to Jogindernagar also stops at Kangra and at Nagrota. Dharamsala's airport, 11km to the south at Gaggal, has three Indian Airlines' flights a week to Delhi. The tourist office (Mon-Sat
North and east of McLeod Ganj Eating in Himachal Pradesh
McLeod Ganj is one of those places where sitting, chatting and philosophic in restaurants is the favoured activity.Tibetan dishes such as thukpa and tna are prominent, along with Chinese egg noodles, chow inein and stir fry’s Frp h baked Tibetan bread and cakes are widely available, and you'll also come arm omelettes, chips, toast, veggie-burgers and plenty of Israeli dishes I Dharamsala, there's no shortage of snack stalls, but less choice of cuisine
McLeod Ganj Accommodation in Himachal Pradesh
Most visitors stay in the upper town McLeod Ganj. However if you have an early bus to catch, or arrive late, you might prefer to stay the night in Dharamsala, although options are fewer and the standards lower. Hotel accommodation tends to fill up during the Tibetan New Year (Feb/March). Those planning long-term stays often head to Bhagsu or Dharamkot, where you can rent rooms or huts on a self-catering basis. A handful of rooms in the Tibetan Library are available to students taking courses here, and for dedicated Buddhists, there's always the possibility of staying at a monastery or
Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh
Home to the Dalai Lama and Tibetan government in exile, and starting point tor some exhilarating treks into the high Himalayas, DHARAMSALA. or more correctly, its upper town McLEOD GANJ, is one of Himachal's most irresistible destinations. Spread across wooded ridges, beneath the stark rock faces of the Dhauladhar Range, 150km east of Pathankot and 160km northwest of Mandi, the town is divided into two distinct and separate sectioW almost a thousand metres apart in altitude. Originally a British hill station, McLEOD GANJ has been transformed by the influx of Tibetan refugees fleeing Chinese oppression in their homeland. Monks and
North and east of McLeod Ganj in Hiamchal Pradesh
A minor road winds northwards from the McLeod Ganj bus stand to the Mountaineering Institute ($01892/21787; Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm & 2-5pm; closed 2nd Sat of month), where Mr Saini provides information on the region, including books and maps on the Dhaula Dhar range, and organizes trekking expeditions. Continuing up the road you approach two Buddhist retreat centres both beautifully situated in the midst of forests and most conducive for meditation and spiritual furtherment. The Tushita Tibetan Buddhist Centre was
The Residence of the Dalai Lama in Himachal Pradesh
The Dalai Lama settled temporarily in McLeod Ganj in 1960; four decades later he's still there, and his residence on the south edge of town has become his permanent home in exile. His own quarters are modest, and most of the walled compound overhanging the valley is taken up by government offices. In front of the private enclosure, Dharamsala's main Buddhist temple, Tsug Lakhang, shelters images of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha), Padmasambhava (who introduced Buddhism to Tibet) and Avalokitesvara (the bodhisattva of compassion) seated in meditation postures, surrounded by offer-
Moving on from Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh
Indian Airlines fly thrice weekly to Delhi (Mon, Wed, Fri 3pm). HRTC run numerous buses to destinations in Himachal Pradesh, Delhi and Chandigarh. Most travellers prefer to book "deluxe" buses through operators in McLeod Ganj near the bus stand. Try Himachal Travels (01892/21428) or Potala Tours & Travels, Bhagsu Road, opposite Hotel Tibet (01892/21378). Buses to Pathankot, handy for train connections and road access to Dalhousie and Chamba leave every 30min from the rains bus stand in the lower town. As well as the services listed in the Travel Details on p.589, there are two or three buses a week
Other routes from Dharamsala to Chamba in Himachal Pradesh
Several other routes cross the Dhauladhar Range, including the Toral Pass (4575m) which starts from Tang Narwana (1150m), 10km from Dharamsala. The most difficult route north is the five- or six-day trek across Bhimghasutri Pass (4580m), covering near-vertical rocky ascents, sharp cliffs and dangerous gorges. A much easier four- of five-day trek from Dharamsala crosses Bleni Pass (3710m) in the milder ranges to the northwest, weaving through alpine pastures and woods and crossing a few streams, before terminating at Dunali, on the Chamba road. Courses Numerous courses are available in McLeod Ganj including lyengarYoga, Dharma teachings, Tibetan language, Hindi, ancient Thai
Accommodation to Agra in Western UP
Taj Ganj, the grid of narrow lanes immediately south of theTaj, is where most budget travellers end up in Agra. With their matchless rooftop views, laid-back terrace cafes and rock-bottom room rates, its little guesthouses can be great places to stay. Their downside is the constant hassle at street level, and the facr that the whole Taj Ganj tourist scene can completely eclipse the traditional feel of the area. In this case, you may be happier in the more modern Tourist Complex district, southwest of Taj Ganj, or the leafier, greener Cantonment, near Agra Cantonment railway station, which has places
Meeting his holiness the Dalai Lama in Himachal Pradesh
The Dalai Lama is in great demand. Tibetans fleeing their homeland come to him for blessing and reassurance; monks and nuns from all over India and Nepal look to him for spiritual guidance; and an ever-increasing number of Westerners arrive in Dharamsala hoping for a moment of his attention. Twenty years ago it might have been possible for people to meet His Holiness on an individual basis; now casual visitors should count on attending a public audience, when he greets and shakes the hands of several hundred people. These are scheduled according to demand, taking place when His Holiness has
Library of Tibetan Works and Archives in Hmachal Pradesh
The Library of Tibetan Works and Archives (Mon-Sat 9am—lpm, 2-5pm-closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month; (01892/22467, 23723) has one or the world's most extensive collections of original Tibetan manuscripts of sacred texts and prayers, books on all aspects of Tibet, copious information on Indian culture and architecture, and a rich archive of historical photos. Decorated on the exterior with bright Tibetan motifs, it is housed in the Tibetan Central Administration compound, below the southern end of McLeod Ganj. The library is not the sole attraction -Tibetan language and philosophy courses are held each weekday. On the first floor of the
The Manali –Leh Travel details in Himachal Pradesh
Trains Pathankot to Joginder Nagar (2 daily; 7hr 30min-9hr10min). Shimla to: Kalka (4 daily; 4hr 45min-5hr 45min). Buses Dalhousie to: Amritsar (2 daily; 5hr 30min);Jullundhar (1 daily; 6hr); Kliajjiar (2 daily; 1hr);Pathankot (hourly; 3hr30min). Dharamsaia to: Baijnath (hourly; 3hr 30min);Chamba (1 daily; 9hr); Chandigarh (6 daily; 7-8hr);Dalhousie (1 daily; 6hr-7hr); Delhi (6 daily; 12hr);Dehra Dun (1 daily; 9hr); Haridwar (1 daily; 14hr);Jawalamukhi (8 daily; 2hr 30min); Kangra (every15min: 45min-1hr); Kullu (4 daily; 8hr); Manali (4daily; 10hr); Mandi (7 daily; 6hr); McLeod Ganj(every 20min; 40min); Nahan (1 daily; 12hr);Pathankot (10 daily; 3hr). Chamba to: Amritsar (1 daily; 8hr); Brahmour (7daily; 3hr); Dalhousie (10 daily; 2hr 30min); Delhi(1
Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts in Himachal Pradesh
The Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (01892/21478, 21033) was founded in 1959 to preserve the Tibetan identity jn exile. Around 120 people live on its campus in the forests above McLeod Gam overlooking Bhagsunath, including artists, teachers, musicians and administrators. The TIPA troupe perform traditional lhamo operas (see box opposite) and have played a morale-building role at Tibetan refugee camps throughout India, while also sharing Tibet's rich cultural heritage with international audiences. Information on upcoming events and tours can be sought at its office (Mon-Sat 9am-12 & lpm-5pm, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month). Lhamo instructors from
McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh
Ashoka. Jogibara Road. Friendly place with a mellow space upstairs and a street buzz downstairs. Good Indian food and a range of beers, pricier than average. Chocolate Log, Jogibara Road. Delicious cakes, pies and truffles plus savouries such as spinach pizza. Eat inside or laze on deckchairs in a pleasant garden. Reasonably priced (9,30am-6pm, 5pm in winter; closed Tues). Chonor House, Chonorguesthouse of same name, south end (01892/21077). An excellent but expensive restaurant with a varied menu serving exquisite Tibetan food plus a sprinkling of Thai dishes and even American pies. Worth booking ahead. Friends' Corner. Temple Road. Popular, comfortable place by
Listings of the Agra in the Western UP
Banks and exchange The State Bank of India is just south of Taj Gaj in the Cantonment (Amex travellers' cheques not accepted); Andhra Bank is over in Sadar Bazaar; and trie Allahabad is in the Hotel Clarks Shiraz). Money transfers can also be arranged through Sita World Travel, on Taj Road). If you get caught out by a public holiday, you could always try one of the private exchange offices in the Tourist Complex Area, around Pizza Hut {LKP Forex, opposite the Amar Hotel on the Fatehbad Road, are always reliable and fast), but if you're changing a large amount
Nalagarh Fort Shimla in Himachal Pradesh
If you can afford it, the eighteenth-century fort of Nalagarh converted into probably the finest hotel in Himachal Pradesh, is an excellent place to break the journey between Delhi and Kullu. Overlooking the Punjab plains, the fort lies 60km from Chandigarh and 12km off the main Chandigarh-Mandi road. Towering above the town with the Himachal foothills rising steeply behind, the fort played a key role in the Gurkha wars of the early nineteenth century, and is today filled with memorabilia evoking its military past. An Ayurvedic clinic offering massage and a shop selling various health potions add to the luxury.
Chamba in Himachal Pradesh
Shielded on all sides by high mountains, and protected by forces in Kangra to the south, Chamba was ruled or over a millennium by kings descended from
The castle in Himachal Pradesh
Since it was erected by Raja Sidh Singh, Nagar's central castle, astride a sheer-sided bluff, has served as palace, colonial mansion, courthouse and school. It is now a Himachal-run hotel, but nonresidents can wander in to admire the views from its balconies. Built in the traditional "earthquake-proof" pahari style (layers of stone bonded together with cedar logs), the castle has a central courtyard, next to which stands a small museum, and an even smaller shrine. The Jagti Patt temple's amorphous deity, a triangular slab of rock strewn with rose petals and rupee notes, is said to have been borne here
The Kangra valley railway in Himachal Pradesh
India has five of the twenty or so vintage "toy trains" or narrow-gauge mountain railways in the world - three in the Himalayas and two of these in Himachal Pradesh. Most famous is the Kalka—Shimla line, but the little-known 163-kilometre Kangra Valley railway is also a magnificent engineering feat. Unlike the Kalka line, with its 103 tunnels and tortuous switchbacks, engineers of this route preferred bridges - 950 in all. many of which are still considered masterpieces - that give passengers uninterrupted views all the way from Pathankot to Jogindernagar. The Dhaula Dhar mountains, rising from the valley floor to
Sarod Ghar to Gwalior in Madhya Pradesh
Tucked away in the west of the city, the new Sarod Ghar museum Tues-Sun lOam-lpm & 2-5pm; free; ®www.sarod.com) is on Ustad Hafiz Ali Khan Marg.Jiwaji Ganj. Either take a rickshaw directly to the house, or a tmpo (Rs3) to Jiwyaji, a five-minute walk north of Jayaji Chowk (circle). The museum is in the beautiful ancestral home of the Bagnash family, which is worth a visit in its own right, with rose sandstone walls aligned in pure symmetry and delicate sculptural detail around a marble courtyard, still used for musical recitals (check Bewspaper listings or at the MPTDC tourist office).