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What about the water?

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One of the chief concerns of many prospective visitors to India is whether the water is safe to drink. To put it simply, it’s not, though your unfamiliarity with Indian micro-organisms is generally more of a problem rather than any great virulence in the water itself.

As a rule, it is not a good idea to drink tap water, although in big cities it is usually chlorinated. However, you’ll find it almost impossible to avoid untreated tap water completely: it is used to make ice, which may appear in drinks without being asked for, to wash utensils and so on. Bottled mineral water is widely available and cheap. Always check that the seal is intact, as refilling bottles is not uncommon; some brands are better than others with Bister being the best, though you don’t always have a choice. Always crush bottles after use and dispose of them properly. Note that plastic is a real menace to the environment especially in fragile areas such as the mountains; try to recycle where possible, or purify your own water.

If you plan to go somewhere with no access to bottled drinks (which really only applies to travellers venturing well off the beaten track) you’ll need to find an appropriate method of treating water, whether your source is tap water or natural ground water such as a river or stream. Boiling it for a minimum of five minutes (longer at higher altitudes) is sufficient to kill micro-organisms, but is not always practical and does not remove unpleasant tastes. Chemical sterilization is cheap and convenient, but dirty water remains dirty, and still contains organic matter or other contamination. You can sterilize water by using chlorine or iodine tablets, but these leave a nasty aftertaste (which can be masked with lemon or lime juice). Pregnant women, babies and people with thyroid problems should avoid using iodine sterilizing tablets or iodine-based purifiers, or use an additional iodine-removal filter. The various kinds of filter only remove visible impurities and the larger pathogenic organisms (most bacteria and cysts); however fine the filter, it will not remove viruses.

Purification, a two-stage process involving both filtration and sterilization, gives the most complete treatment. The Aqua Pure Traveller water bottle (£34.99) has a filter top that turns contaminated water into safe, clean drinking water. Tested and approved by the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine, it uses replaceable filters fo strain out even the smallest viruses and pathogens. Each one lasts for 350 litres, making it money saving as well as environmentally friendly. Available from most good outdoor stores and large pharmacies. Another supplier of water purifiers is Pre-Mac - for suppliers contact: Pre-Mac Ltd unit 5 Morewood Close, Sevenoaks, Kent TN13 2HU, England 01732/460333.

All Water Systems Ltd Unit 2018. Cifywest Business Campus, Faggart, Dublin, Ireland 01/466 0133.

Travel Medicine 351 Pleasant St. Suite 312, Northampton, MA 01060, US 31-800/872-8633.

Nomad Travellers Store and Medical Centre 3-4 Wellington Terrace, Turnpike Lane, London N8 0PX 020/8889 7014, 8889 9529.

140921 716/754-4883:40 Regal Rd, Guelph, ON N1K1B5S519/836-0102,

A nonprofit organization supported by donations, it can provide a list of English-speaking doctors in India, climate charts and leaflets on various diseases and inoculations. International SOS Assistance, PO Box 11568, Philadelphia, PA 19116 1-800/523-8930.

Members receive pre-tnp medical referral info, as well as overseas emergency services designed to complement travel insurance coverage.

Travel Medicine, 351 Pleasant St, Suite 312. Northampton, MA 01060 $ 1 -800/872-8633.

Sells first-aid kits, mosquito netting, water filters and other health-related travel products.

Travelers Medical Center, 31 Washington Square West, New York, NY 10011 212/982-1600. Consultation service on immunizations and treatment of diseases for people travelling to developing countries.

Related Properties from Gurgaon

Water shortages in Palolem in Goa

The vast increase in visitor numbers in Palolem has been blamed for the severe water shortages that have afflicted Canacona district over the past three years. The municipality seems unwilling or unable to do anything about the problem, so the onus falls on tourists to use as little water as possible during their stay. One of the most effective ways you can do this is to avoid water-toilets, which dump a colossal quantity of untreated sewage into often poorly manufactured septic tanks below the ground. Traditional pig loos, still common in the village, are a far cleaner, greener option.

Dzomsa laundry in Ladakh

Situated on a strategic corner between Upper Thaka Road and Old Fort Road at one end of the market square, the Dzomsa Laundry provides a vital service in ecology-sound washing, using biodegradable detergent and water at a safe distance from habitation. Dzottna, which Literally means "'meeting point", also serves delicious fresh apricot juice which you can drink while sitting outside watching the world go by. If you're wondering what to do with your empty mineral water bottles, you can recycle them here and have them filled with safe drinking water.

Health in Leh: altitude sickness and dirty water in Ladakh

As Leh is 3505m above sea level, some travellers, and especially those who arrive by plane from Delhi, experience mild altitude sickness- If you develop any of the symptoms - persistent headaches, dizziness, insomnia, nausea, loss of appetite or shortness of breath - your body has not yet acclimatized to the comparative lack of oxygen in the thin Ladakhi air; don't worry, it will, probably in as little as 24 hours, though it can take longer. In the meantime, take it easy and drink plenty of fluids -3-4 litres of water a day is recommended. In addition, lay off alcohol,

Silchar in the Northeast

The nondescript town of SILCHAR is south Assam's main transport nexus There's little to do here but wait for a bus or train out, but you may find you self having to stay the night. The top hotel in town is the Sudakshi, on Shillong Patty, with comfortable carpeted roor hot water and cable TV. The excellent-value Hotel Siddharth just round the corner on Narshingtola, has clean rooms with showe filtered water and TV. Other options include the reasonable Swagat on Cent Road and the Geetanjali Club Road, which has large rooms, hot water and one of the best restaurai

Shiv Sagar at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh

A short way south of the complex, a few hundred metres from Matangesvara, the Shiv Sagar tank is surrounded by a motley assortment of buildings and open space. The steps down to it are animated with pilgrims bathing and collecting water from the "Ocean of Shiva". Cunningham's original map of the temples showed a body of water that ran north to divide the Western Group into two sections; crossing it to the temples may have represented a symbolic transition from the finite to the celestial.

Accommodation and eating in North Bengal

Kalimpong's acute water shortages are likely to influence your choice of accommodation - few of the lower-range options have running water. The market area (Tenth Mile) and the area around the Motor Stand are where you will find most budget hotels. The best restaurants are in the hotels - the Kalimpong Park, Crown and China Garden. Other options include the legendary Gompu's bar and restaurant a: Dambar Chowk which serves great momos; the Mandarin, a Chinese restaurant at the Motor Stand; and the basic but friendly Kelsang, tucked around the corner from the Motor Stand servmg curd and Tibetan food.

Kochi (Cochin) Accommodation in Kerala

The romantic atmosphere of Fort Cochin is being exploited, and a growing number of budget guesthouses and upmarket hotels is drastically altering the face of this quaint town; property developers with little interest in restoration and conservation are creating eyesores such as the Park Avenue hotel. The biggest crisis however, is the clean water shortage that has hit the locals very hard, especially in the high season; if you do stay in Fort Cochin, try and keep your daily water consumption to a minimum. To help preserve the fort area, you could opt to stay in Ernakulam. which lacks the

The Dargah and Panchakki in Maharashtra

On the left bank of the Kham River, on Panchakki Road, the Dargah of Baba Shah Muzaffar (daily sunrise—8pm; free) is a religious compound built by Aurangzeb as a memorial to his spiritual mentor, a chisti mystic. The principal point of interest is not so much the mosque, the modest tomb or ornamental gardens nearby, pleasant as they are. but the unusual adjoining water mill known as the Panchakki. Water pumped underground from a reservoir in the hills 6km away collects in a tank, now teeming with enormous khol fish, to drive a small grindstone once used to mil] flour

Nasik Accommodation in Maharashtra

Most of Nasik's hotels are pitched at middle-class Mumbai business travellers. The few noteworthy exceptions are the lodge-style budget places around the City bus stand chowk. These, however, tend to fill up early, soon after their noon checkout times. Basera. Sivaji Road 0253/575616. Very close to the City bus stand. Airy, comfortable rooms, all with dot water and windows and some a/c. Added attractions are its astrology and palm readings. Padma, Sharampur Road 0253/576837. Directly opposite the City bus stand. Safe, clean and convenient with attached restaurant and permit room. All rooms have attached bathrooms and hot water 6-9am. Panchavati, 430 Vakil

Arranging a trek or tour and hiring equipment for Leh Ladakh

Leh offers a bewildering number of operators for the large volume of tourists who come to Ladakh to trek. Most trek and tour operators offer much the same services sharing much the same resources. Although trekking rates are quite uniform, you can get some cheaper deais on items such as porterage and pony hire by shopping around. You can also rent equipment either through the chosen agency or through places like the Traveller Shop, White House, Fort Road (01982/53048). Expect to pay Rs100 a day for a tent, Rs70 for a sleeping bag, Rs30 for a gas stove and Rs40

Kuttanda: the backwaters of Kerala

One of the most memorable experiences for travellers in India - even those on the lowest of budgets - is the opportunity to take a boat journey on the backwaters of Kerala. The area known as Kuttanad stretches for 75km from Kollam in the south to Kochi in the north, sandwiched between the sea and the hills. This bewildering labyrinth of shimmering waterways, composed of lakes, canals, rivers and rivulets, is lined with dense tropical greenery, and preserves rural Keralan lifestyles that are completely hidden from the road. Views change from narrow canals and dense vegetation to open vistas and dazzling

Practicalities to the west Arunachal in the Northeast

Independent travellers should register at the foreigners' registration office, above and behind the state bus stand. Arunachal State Transport run buses to Bomdila and there are also private buses, but the daily Tata Sumo services arc by far the best mode of transport if you're willing to pay the extra rupees. Book in advance from ticket agents in the bus stand square. The few restaurants in town offer basic Tibetan food - momos (meat or veg dumplings), thukpa (thick noodle soup) - and simple Indian dishes- The Masaang Norling restaurant opposite the Masaang hotel bakes delicious Tibetan bread with home-churned butter

Blood sacrifice in Sarahan Practicalities in Himachal Pradesh

Buses from Shimla to Sangla and Rekong Peo pass through the small town of Jeori, from where several buses a day travel 20km south to Sarahan; taxis ate also available. Alternatively, there's a direct bus service from Rampur. Keen walkers might fancy ambling along the well-worn mule track to Sarahan from Jeori which takes about ninety minutes. Accommodation at Sarahan itself is fairly limited- HPTDC's Hotel Srikhcmd (01782/203294) is a concrete monster, but with a delightful garden. Rooms are clean and comfortable, though overpriced, and come with hot water and views of the valley. There's also a dorm (Rs50) and

Vashisht in Himachal Pradesh

Famous for its sweeping valley views and sulphurous hot-water springs, the ever-expanding village of VASHISHT, 3km north of Manali, is an amorphous jumble of traditional timber houses and modern concrete cubes, divided by paved courtyards and narrow muddy lanes. It is the epicentre of the local budget travellers' scene, with a good choice of guesthouses and cafes; the tranquil and traditional atmosphere is interrupted by the occasional rave that takes place in the woods, or if the weather is poor, in one or two obliging hotels. You can get to Vashisht by road, or along the footpath that winds up the

Health is the Very Aware

A lot of visitors get ill in India, and some of them get very ill. However, if you are careful, you should be able to get through the country with nothing worse than a mild dose of "Delhi belly", an almost obligatory introduction to the country. The important thing is to keep your resistance high and to be very aware of health risks such as poor hygiene, untreated water, mosquito bites and undressed open cuts. What you eat and drink is crucial: a poor diet lowers your resistance. Ensure you eat a balance of protein, energy, vitamins and minerals. Meat and

Pozhikkara beach and Pachalloor village in Kerala

Heading north along Samudra for around 4km you'll pass through a string of fishing hamlets before eventually arriving at a point where the sea merges with the backwaters to form a salt-water lagoon. Although only thirty minutes' walk, from the Aslwk, the sliver of white sand dividing the two, known as Pozhikkara beach, is a world away from the headlong holiday culture of Kovalam. Here, the sands are used primarily for landing fish and fixing nets, while the thick palm canopy shelters a mixed community of Hindu fishermen and Christian coir makers. I he tranquil village of PACHALLOOR, behind the lagoon,

A traveler’s first-aid kit

Below are items you might want to take, especially if you're planning to go trekking -all are available in India itself, at a fraction of what you might pay at home: Antiseptic cream, Insect repellent and cream such as, Anthisan for soothing bits, Plasters/band aids ,A course of Flagyl antibiotics ,Water sterilization tablets or water purifier ,Lint and sealed bandages , Knee supports ,Imodium (Lomotil) for emergency diarrhea treatment ,A mild oral anesthetic such as Bonjela for soothing ulcers or mild tooth the, Paracetamol/aspirin ,Multi-vitamin and mineral tablets, Rehydration sachets ,Hypodermic needles and sterilized skin wipes. tion. Be fussier than usual about

Pollution and floods in Calcutta

With no controls on the emissions of its armada of diesel engined vehicles, Calcutta is cursed with heavy atmospheric pollution - as any visitor to the city soon learns. For its residents, lung problems are part of everyday life. Rush hours are especially noxious, with grey fumes frequently obscuring the sunset. During the long months when the city holds its breath and waits for the monsoons to hit, the still and heavy air can be unbearable; and when the rains finally roll in at the end of June. Calcutta becomes a swamp. Being obliged to wade thigh-deep through filthy water,

Bhimbetka Practicalities in Madhya Pradesh

The only way of getting to the caves at Bhimbetka is by private vehicle or taxi. From Bhopal, take NH-12, and 7km after the market town of Obaidullaganj, take a left when you see a sign in Hindi with "3.2" written on it. Cross the railway line and the caves are 3km further on along the road. There's nowhere to eat or drink for miles around Bhimbetka, so bring a day's supply of food and water with you.

Corbyn’s Cove and Chiriya Tapu in The Andaman Islands

The best beach within easy reach of the capital lies 10km southeast at Corbyn's Cove, a small arc of smooth white sand backed by a swaying curtain of palms. There's a large hotel here, but the water isn't particularly clear, and bear in mind that lying around scantily clothed will bring you considerable attention from crowds of local workers. For more isolation, rent a moped or take a taxi 30km south to Chiriya Tapu ("Bird Island"), at the tip of South Andaman. The motorable track running beyond this small fishing village leads through thick jungle overhung with twisting creepers to a

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